Propagation Of Azaleas By Cuttings

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Propagation Of Azaleas By Cuttings
Propagation Of Azaleas By Cuttings
Video: Propagation Of Azaleas By Cuttings
Video: How To Propagate Azaleas From Cuttings | full explanation 2023, February
Anonim
azalea cuttings
azalea cuttings

If you cover the azalea stalk with a jar, but ventilate it a little and rarely, the stalk rots in the damp earth, black spots appear on the lower leaves, and then they fall off.

If azaleas and rhododendrons rooted so easily, once or twice, this theme would exist. But rooting azaleas is no easy matter. Therefore, we collect the experience of flower growers who managed to conquer this beautiful flower and even learned how to propagate it.

Svetlana Larsen (svph) shares her experience gained from her own mistakes. I quote verbatim so as not to miss a single bit of important information:

So, there is one secret in the grafting of rhododendrons, which for some reason is very rarely mentioned in the literature. Perhaps because so far only specialists are engaged in this. I was told about these features by a girl from Riga who wrote a thesis on propagation of wild and varietal rhododendrons, and then an American at the international flower forum. The approach is somewhat different, but the meaning is the same.

But first, about the basics, without which nothing will work. My rhododendrons took root only on the third attempt. Therefore, it is so important to observe all the little things.

Root in peat. This was put on stream at the University of Riga. Peat was taken directly from the swamp, riding. But there was mass production. It makes sense for you to buy land for azaleas. In fact, it is already with the addition of fertilizers. And clean peat would be better. The point is to keep the ground light.

American roots in vermiculite. He says that in the sand it is possible. But I chose peat. It is also advisable to check its acidity. The lower the better. I did not heat or spray with any fungicides.

azalea stalk
azalea stalk

And now about the cuttings. That they should be ripe is an axiom. This is checked at the kink. If the middle stalk breaks with the characteristic wood breaking sound, then it is ready to be cut. The vegetative point of the cutting must complete its development, i.e. there should be a well-formed bud and all the leaves should be of normal size. This is not necessary, a vegetative bud, maybe a flower bud. If it is floral, then it will disappear itself. The size of the cuttings all give 10-15 cm, but I tried not to cut off the excess, and last year I got cuttings of 20 cm.

At the bottom, the cut can be either oblique or straight. This does not matter. On the handle, an oblique incision should be made 1.5-2 cm long and such a width that the cut off part of the bark is about one quarter of the remaining. I am attaching a drawing and a photo from the book. In the photo, if you look closely, you can see how the stalk should look after the "operation". Without this incision and removal of part of the bark, the venture is doomed to failure. Callus, and then roots, are formed precisely on the lateral sections of the bark, and not on the lower section, as we used to think. When cutting, you need to try not to damage the bast.

Then we dip the stalk into the stimulant. An American advises the strongest stimulant (for difficult-to-rooted plants), and vice versa. She says that the best results came with the weakest stimulant. So choose for yourself. I have a weak stimulant: for begonias, fuchsias, etc., which already takes root without any stimulant. There was simply no other in the store. If the stimulant is liquid, then the stalk must be kept in it for 14-17 hours and then planted.

I sit by eye. In the book, it is recommended to deepen by 2.5-3 cm. But if the stalk was long, then I planted deeper. Well tamp the soil around and cover with foil. And be patient. Cuttings of large-leaved evergreen rhododendrons take root for 4 months, and then sit for a couple of months before they begin to grow. The film can be removed only when the cuttings have started to grow. There is another nuance. The box with the cuttings should be in the warmest and lightest place in the apartment. Cuttings root at temperatures not lower than + 22 ° C. In general, it is advisable to heat the bottom of the box. The desired temperature there is + 25-27 ° С. Once a week, the box must be twisted with the other side to the window so that the cuttings are evenly illuminated. It can be cut from mid-July to mid-October.

Another piece of information: the stalk doesn't have to be freshly cut. It can dry out for two or three days, and stand in a jar of water for two weeks. If dry, then you must first put in water. Of course, this will not add vitality to it, but it will not deprive it of a chance to take root. I know that we do not always have the opportunity to immediately arrange everything in jars and pots. We get cuttings on occasion and always worry about how they will endure transportation, shrinkage and shaking. Therefore, this information is very useful. Although rhododendrons take root with such difficulty, they do not fade forever in a couple of hours.

azalea cuttings
azalea cuttings
rooting azalea
rooting azalea

I rooted azaleas twice (Knapp-Hills). But of all the rooted cuttings, only one survived. Azaleas have one bad feature - rooted cuttings must be made to grow in the year of rooting. And this is very, very difficult - after all, they are cut in August, they take root for two or three months, and it turns out that they should start growing in December-January. Well, what kind of lighting and what temperature in winter, it's not for me to tell you. That is, you need a special lighting, additional heating while maintaining sufficient humidity. And if they sit rooted, but not germinated until spring, then by next fall they will be gone. Or they will last another year, and then they will disappear. But year after year does not happen - sometimes almost all the cuttings take root, and sometimes 95% disappears. And no stimulant fungicides help.

  • Azalea - care and transplant
  • Azalea Frequently Asked Questions

Rooting deciduous azaleas

There is a slight difference in this case. In deciduous azaleas, this year's growth is taken for cuttings, which has not yet completed its development: the vegetative bud should continue to grow, the upper leaves should be small, light green, that is, developing. If the tip has finished its development, the leaves have acquired a dark green color and normal size, then such a cutting will not take root. Therefore, in deciduous azaleas, cuttings are limited in time. This should be done within two weeks. I cannot say about more specific terms. For me it is the end of June - beginning of July.

Another professional experience, Alexander Zaitsev (Alex):

A year ago, I tried to root several cuttings of Jacksoni's evergreen rhododendron - none of them rooted, after a few months they threw out the blackened ones. A new batch of cuttings is taking root this year. I carry out rooting of cuttings in mini-plates on the principle of citrus fruits made from plastic bottles.

rooting azalea
rooting azalea
azalea stalk
azalea stalk

But I re-equipped the greenhouse - in the middle part I put another knee from a plastic bottle, because the height of the cuttings is too high. I added antiseptics to the soil mixture from rotting - sphagnum moss and crushed birch charcoal. Greenhouses are on a shelf. In connection with the decrease in the length of the day, I perform additional lighting, a timer and a simple electronic device monitor this. The shelf is heated by lamps installed to illuminate the lower tier and the temperature inside the greenhouses is about 25 degrees, at night it decreases, but at this time photosynthesis does not take place and it does not need to be kept too high. Two months have passed since the setting of the cuttings for rooting. For control, I opened one greenhouse: good callus formed on all cuttings.

Three months have passed … I'll say right away: ten cuttings of Jackson's rhododendron were rooting, two of them turned black in a couple of weeks, the rest are alive. They rooted in three greenhouses in a mixture: "Azalea" + vermiculite 15, 30, 45%, I did not feel a significant difference when rooting in three different ratios of the mixture. Sphagnum moss was added to the mixture. Today I opened three greenhouses - seven cuttings have grown a good root system, one cutting left for further rooting. Two years later I will wait for flowering, exactly the same as on the mother plant.

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