Table of contents:
Spider mite almost destroyed the tops of the dendrobium
They are dangerous because they are too small, they become noticeable when the plant is already badly damaged. The body of an adult tick is not more than 1 mm, usually much less, 0.2-0.3 mm. There are a huge variety of mites, there are with a transparent yellowish body, there are brick-red, brown. You can see through a microscope or a large magnifying glass, but the signs are the same for all species: the surface of an orchid leaf begins to become covered with small gray dots or thin dashes, they gradually enlarge, the leaf acquires a silvery hue - the cell sap is sucked out, and silvery is translucent dead leaf cells, from only the skeleton remains. By the way, you may never see a web with the naked eye.
But if you do not see the cobweb, it does not mean that you do not have a tick, it can be negligible, visible only through a microscope. Either it is not spider mites that have settled on your orchid, but microscopic wide mites or cyclamen. These types of mites can only be seen under a microscope, they do not form cobwebs, but seriously harm orchids. The signs of a wide tick are similar to a chemical burn: first of all, the very tops of the shoots, new growths, and buds are damaged. A sheet unfolds with a deformed edge, with brown spots. Such signs are easily confused with thrips, with overfeeding with fertilizer or lack of boron. Therefore, it is worth carefully examining the plant, observing, studying its development, analyzing its care.
In general, all herbivorous mites love young shoots, affecting, first of all, growth points. The problem with ticks is that these pests are not insects: ticks are arthropods. Conventional insecticides do not work on them. But this is not enough, the tick has a non-feeding stage of the egg, and all known drugs are mainly of intestinal action. Those. when the leaf is wetted, the pest eats the poison and dies, and since the eggs do not feed while they ripen, the poison does not act on them.
A tick on miltonia (detected under a microscope), on the leaves there is almost complete chlorosis, the peduncle froze.
And that is not all. It is not possible to kill a tick 100% at a time, they can hide in secluded places - in the substrate, in the leaf axils, and the survivors give new offspring that are already resistant to the pesticide used. Therefore, if a tick appears, it must be taken seriously.
More about ticks
Measures to control ticks on orchids
First, alternate medications. If you sprayed with the drug (recommended acaricides), and the mite reappeared after a few days, you must definitely change the drug.
Secondly, there is very contradictory data on how air humidity affects the development of a tick; it was previously believed that high humidity inhibits the number, while low humidity contributes to its reproduction. In fact, moisture affects different types of mites in different ways, but by and large it is not at all important. Temperature is important - the hotter, the faster the tick development cycle. Those. even if the humidity is 80-90% and the temperature is about 28 degrees, the mite will multiply wildly. We cannot influence the temperature, or rather we can, but this is not in the interests of the orchid itself. Therefore, we have to look for all sorts of ways to combat in addition to the traditionally accepted air humidification.
The drugs of choice in the treatment of orchids from the tick Apollo, Sunmite, Vermitic. If it does not help the first time, you need to change the drug.
Second tip: to fight the mite on orchids, you do not need to spray the plants, they need to be soaked in the solution of the drug completely and completely, along with the substrate and the pot. The plant will have nothing. If there are flowers, soak with the flowers. In the case of a tick, the question of survival is who will win, so of all the evils (you can lose flowers), you should choose the least.
Soak in the solution for about 10 minutes, then remove and do not rinse. Leave until the substrate is completely dry. Those. the next watering must be canceled until all the soil is dry. Remember, there are no systemic drugs among acaricides, only contact and intestinal contact. Therefore, the better you moisten, the more likely you are to destroy all pests.
As for the most famous remedy for ticks - a hot shower, this method has opponents and supporters. We do not recommend using a hot shower on orchids if you have never practiced it on other indoor plants. If you have already seen the results, you can safely try. The water temperature is 45-47 degrees. It's not very hot, in any case, the hand is free to endure. The technique is as follows: we compose the plants in a bath, adjust the water temperature, water for about 2 minutes, directing the flow of water to the back of the leaves. It is desirable that the pressure be very strong. Most of the mites and eggs are washed away with the stream of water. Then for about a minute on the upper side of the leaves.
It is important, if the pressure is strong, to keep the orchid so that it does not wash out of the pot, does not break the branches and leaves with pressure. Watered. We leave it to stand in the bathroom while there is wet steam in it. Water drains from the pots. Then we transfer to a room, only to a warm place. If the temperature is supposed to drop by night, we avoid it in every possible way, do not open the windows to ventilate. Just one day. In the future, carefully dry the soil in the pot.
If you notice that small black bugs, similar to ticks, crawl in orchids, it is possible these are Shell mites.
Mealybug and scale insects
Clutch of scale insects in phalaenopsis roots.
Worms, like ticks, are very dangerous and difficult to hatch. They are able to devour and destroy an orchid in a matter of weeks. It appears as white fluffy lumps in the leaf axils. It is imperative to harass it as soon as it is discovered.
To begin with, take a cotton swab, moisten it with alcohol and carefully pick out the pests from the leaf sinuses. You can do it differently: bring the orchid under a stream of warm water and wash the pests with just the pressure of water.
Earlier, Aktara helped from the worms (1 g per 1 liter of water) - to spray and water. But more and more cases are described when the actor does not help. Therefore, we try from the worm and scale insects on Confidor-maxi orchids: we dilute a bag for 1 liter of water. We immerse the pot completely for 2-3 minutes. We take out, let the solution drain. We put the orchid in a bag, spray it on the sheet with the solution, tie the bag, leave it to stand for an hour. We take out and set to dry and ventilate.
There is another recipe for chemical mordant from worms and scale insects, according to the advice of members of the forum: a solution of three chemicals is prepared, for 1 liter of water 1 g of actara, 1 g of mospilan, 1 g of confidor. Mix thoroughly, soak the orch as fully as possible for 20-30 minutes. Remove to dry. This recipe is the most effective, but must be repeated after 5 days.
Scorm on a phalaenopsis flower.
If there is no way to fight the mealybug with chemicals, if the plant is strongly oppressed, try another way to defeat the mealybug, at the same time provide stimulating support to your orchid: take half a tablet (250 mg) of effervescent aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) and dissolve in 1 liter of boiled water. In this solution we soak the orchid by full immersion, together with the substrate, leaves. The peduncle can be dipped separately. Instead of aspirin, you can take ascofen 2 tablets (crush in a mortar) per 1 liter of water. This is a medicinal dosage. In general, acetylsalicylic acid is used to stimulate root formation, but in smaller doses - 500 mg per 4 liters of water once a week by immersion watering. Not more than three times during the growing season.
From scale insects, worms, as well as whitefly and some types of ticks, the Japanese drug Aplaud can help (in complex treatment in parallel with other drugs or non-chemical agents - hot showers, rinsing). This is a hormonal drug that inhibits the synthesis of chitin in insects (blocks the transition of larvae to the next phase of development), but does not kill adult pests. It is effective against ticks together with pyrethroids. The consumption rate is 2 g of aploud per 1 liter of water. Repeat once a week.
Thrips are small flying insects, they themselves can not be seen immediately, but black excrement and gray skins from molting remain on the leaves from their activity. On the leaves there are spots, silvery, but unlike tick-borne ones, they are larger, depressed, like sucked off by a vacuum - the larvae eat up the leaf from the inside. Leaf damage usually begins with young growth. In case of massive damage, the entire surface of the leaf becomes whitish and discolored. The main harm thrips inflict on flowers, which are stained and deformed, in addition, thrips larvae can hide in flowers. To avoid a thrips infestation, do not bring garden flowers in bouquets to the orchid room. Quarantine all purchased orchids.
More about thrips
Control measures for thrips on orchids
The easiest way is to shed and spray orchids with systemic insecticides - actara or confidor. Dilute according to instructions. Two treatments are usually enough to cure the orchid. If there is no actara or confidor, you can spray with contact insecticides (fitoverm, actellik, inta-vir, vermitek). Three treatments with an interval of 7 days.
You can destroy thrips with mospilan - prepare a solution at the rate of 1 g per 3 liters of water, spray the leaves and soil.
From folk remedies: 400 g of fresh celandine leaves collected during flowering, chop, pour 1 liter of water and leave for 24 hours. You can use dry celandine 100 g of dry leaves per 1 liter of water. Infusion thoroughly spray the leaves, soil, do not wash off.
- Houseplant pests
Orchid Care Errors
- Root decay, manifested in the lethargy of the plant, drooping leaves, softening of the root collar - can be caused by excessive watering, watering with cold water, planting too deeply, root damage during transplanting, improperly selected soil. To avoid this, compose the soil so that it dries completely in 2-3 days. Do not water the orchids before the velamen brightens (dries out).
- Brown or brown dry spots on the leaves - can be caused by sunburn, watering with hard water with chemical impurities, watering with cold water, overfeeding fertilizers.
- Black or brown spots, small as dots or larger, round or irregular in shape - are caused by fungal or bacterial diseases, which appear most often as a result of poor ventilation in high humidity.
- Lack of flowering - first of all, it can be caused by violations in the conditions of detention, for example, an incorrectly spent rest period, lack of lighting, too hot dry air in the room, etc., as well as in case of damage by diseases and pests, in case of improper transplantation or planting into the wrong potting mix.