Anthurium - Features Of Cultivation

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Anthurium - Features Of Cultivation
Anthurium - Features Of Cultivation
Video: Anthurium - Features Of Cultivation
Video: Cultivation process of Anthurium 2023, February

In different species and varieties of anthurium, the shapes and sizes of the bedspread and the cob are different. The ear can be longer or shorter than the cover, straight or curled in a spiral.

Anthurium cannot be called a very capricious plant, but just like a Tradescantia herb, it will not grow and bloom. It needs a special approach - special soil, moderate watering, good lighting.

What to plant anthurium in

One of the most important conditions for the successful cultivation of anthuriums is the correct choice of substrate. It should hold the plant well, retain moisture and nutrients, dry easily and allow air to pass through. Moreover, it should not quickly decompose, cake and thicken.

Soil for anthurium:

1. Sour soil like "Azalea" mixed with peat, expanded clay, sphagnum, pine bark. The finished substrate should be loose, breathable, airy, while moisture-consuming. In such a substrate, anthurium feels great.

If there is none, then the substrate is "begonia" + sphagnum + perlite. You can also add charcoal here.

2. Most guidelines recommend a substrate for growing anthuriums, composed of 1 part of rough turf, 1 part of coarse sand and 2-3 parts of leaf humus with the addition of pieces of charcoal. However, such a substrate is far from optimal and requires annual replacement.

A good substrate is pine bark with a piece size of 2 to 5 cm, but it is mainly applicable in greenhouse culture, subject to regular feeding. The best results are obtained with a substrate made up of 2 parts of pumice (1 to 3 cm pieces), 2 parts of pine bark (2-5 cm pieces), 1 part of coarse fibrous peat and 1 part of rotted horse manure. Such a substrate is well aerated, sufficiently water-absorbing and retains nutrients well. For young plants, smaller fractions of its components are used. Good results can also be obtained by using a substrate made up of equal parts of large expanded clay (2-3 cm in diameter), coarse peat and pine bark (fractions 2-3 cm). Some growers use glass wool or slag wool for growing anthuriums,crushed coconut shells, charcoal and even broken bricks.

3) Planting in clean moss

4) Transplanted into a substrate for bromeliads and orchids (or 1 part leaf, 1 part coniferous, 1 part peat land and 0.5 part sand

For Anthurium, I make up the earth myself.

I take soil for violets or you can use other soil for indoor flowers or aroids, add a little perlite + vermiculite + pine bark + moss + husk from sunflower seeds.

I transplant as needed. I take the pot not quite wide, but not deep, 2-3 cm larger than the previous one.

Anthurium lighting


Anthurium quickly adapts to the conditions of the room, does not like direct sunlight at noon, but requires a lot of light, and the morning or evening sun is welcome.

I also met such information in the literature: Anthuriums are shade-tolerant and can be content with rather meager light conditions.

Growing Anthuriums for more than one year, I can say that they can be content with poor light conditions, but then you will get an unattractive appearance and will not see flowers. The cuttings become very long, stick out in all directions like sticks, the leaves are small, and the flowers are even smaller, if at all.

For Anthurium, any direction of windows is suitable except for the southern one, of course, you need to take into account the height of the floor, but if you really want to grow Anthurium on the southern window, then you need to put it next to the window about 30-50 cm or on the windowsill, but then the window needs to be darkened.

If you have, on the contrary, northern windows, or there is shading from the street, then in winter the anthurium will be dark, and at high temperatures, this leads to the degeneration of the plant, the loss of its decorative appearance. Therefore, with such windows, from September to March, you need to turn on fluorescent lighting.


Watering during the period of active growth is moderate, but regular, with soft water, that is, as the top layer dries. I water and spray with boiled water, sometimes I arrange a shower.

There is an opinion that the soil should be constantly moist.

The most common mistake is waterlogging of the substrate; in the wet substrate of Anthurium, the roots quickly rot, which can lead to the death of plants. Stagnation of water in the sump is unacceptable; it must be drained immediately after watering. The golden rule: it is better to almost top up than overflow. Worst of all, from constant dampness in pots, mushroom mosquitoes (whose larvae gnaw at the roots) start up, pathogenic fungi and bacteria develop, and various spots bloom on the plant.

Air humidity

Anthurium grows well and blooms at high humidity.

It is recommended to regularly (morning and evening) spray with water, because anthuriums need very humid air. You can increase the humidity of the air by spreading a layer of sphagnum moss around the leaves, but make sure that it does not create increased dampness of the earth and does not accumulate moisture on the stems. When spraying, use only soft boiled water, otherwise white streaks will remain on the leaves.

Anthurium fertilizer

From March to August, feed the plant with fertilizers once every two weeks. At the beginning of the growing season, anthurium is fertilized with a weak solution for ornamental deciduous plants, after 2-3 additional fertilizing, fertilizers can be applied for decorative flowering plants (fertika-lux, agriculture, uniflor-bud, pocon for flowering plants, etc.). Calculate the fertilizer dose 2 times less than the recommended one.


Reproduction of anthurium

Division of adult specimens or separation of rooted lateral shoots. To do this, the bush taken out of the pot must be carefully cut with a knife, cut off the necessary part with a piece of rhizome. Try not to disturb the bulk of the roots. Sprinkle all large sections with crushed coal or sulfur (sold in pet supplies) to close the gate for infection. Water the planted parts carefully during the first week. Avoid splitting and replanting on the hottest summer days.

Seed reproduction is also possible. After cross-pollination (for this you must have two flowering plants at the same time), the seeds ripen within 8 weeks, after which they must be planted immediately, as they quickly lose their germination. The soil is light from a mixture of vermiculite and peat in equal parts. Vermiculite can be replaced with coarse sand. The soil can be covered with a thin layer of sphagnum moss, and seeds can be sown into it. Moisten the top evenly from a spray bottle, cover with foil. Ventilate regularly to prevent mold from forming on the ground.

Anthurium pests and diseases

Usually, anthuriums are a little sick and are not very susceptible to pests. Most often these are scale insects and mealybugs. Sometimes ticks. Particularly dangerous are scale insects, which multiply very quickly and require serious efforts to destroy them. Ticks are fought with agents called acaricides (apollo, vermitic, nissoran, etc.). With scale insects, mealybugs and other pests, including soil, the easiest way to deal with systemic insecticides is aktara or confidor. Visible pests should be removed with a cotton swab or cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

Also, plants suffer greatly from excessive watering and poor drainage, leading to decay of the root system. Root and stem rot caused by waterlogging of the substrate and low temperatures, as well as anthracnose. With anthracnose, leaf blades begin to dry out from the edges, and with severe damage, the plants are depleted and die off. The fight against this disease requires perseverance, and it must be started when the first signs appear. In large collections, it is necessary to carry out prophylactic treatments with fungicides, preferably systemic (foundationol).

Frequently asked questions about anthurium

1. What should you pay attention to when growing Anthurium?

Answer: Anthuriums are kept at a temperature of at least 18 degrees in conditions of high air humidity (daily spraying is necessary). Photophilous. The soil temperature cannot be lower than the ambient temperature, so it is better to use plastic rather than ceramic pots. Anthurium consumes a lot of water, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Anthurium Andre tolerates the sun better than Scherzer's anthurium, but it is better to darken it, it feels normal in bright light, but without the sun too, and better in a humid atmosphere. When spraying, try not to get large drops of water on the flowers - ugly spots will remain.


Such spots appear from systematic overflow, and are very often a sign of infection.

2. How to divide anthurium?

Answer: Very carefully! When dividing, the roots must be carefully untangled or cut with a knife. You can spill a little epin or root.

3. The plant requires transplanting, but it is recommended to transplant only in spring, what should I do?

Answer: It is best to do now the transfer to the pot a little more than before, and carefully change the topsoil, without exposing the roots, if possible. Good drainage and very loose soil are required. If there are aerial roots, lightly dust them with the same soil or cover with damp moss.

4. Yellow spots on the leaves appeared on Anthurium. Why does this happen, from hard water or from overfeeding with fertilizers?

Answer: If the spots are large - evenly over the entire surface of the leaf, and the leaves themselves are either less than the previous ones, or more - then these are clear signs of unbalanced fertilization. If the specks are small and visible in the light, then perhaps this is a spider mite.

5. Can blooming anthurium be transplanted?

Answer: Blooming flowers can not be transplanted, but only transshipped, i.e. without damaging the earthy coma, especially if the pot is small. And put the flower in a bright place.

6. How deep the roots can be buried during transplantation

Answer: They can and should be buried during transplantation, well, of course, you should not be zealous. The roots must definitely be covered. If you cannot deepen it, cover them with at least sphagnum. In anthuriums, even aerial roots are recommended to be wrapped in moist sphagnum …

7. Anthurium does not bloom!

Answer: The path to success with anthuriums is this: in order for it to bloom, it must be at a temperature of at least 18 degrees around the clock, does not like direct sunlight, diffused light is needed. Watering is moderate, he really does not like drafts. His pot must be slightly larger than his root system, otherwise it will not bloom! And, of course, light fertilization once a week.

Anthurium in the Encyclopedia

Posted by Kasandra and Natali

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