Ampel, climbing plants and vines are those plants that have soft, usually long branches that need support. If not, then they just hang down freely. The vines themselves differ from ampelous plants in general in that their shoots are directed upwards, and aerial roots (like in philodendrons, syngonium) or special devices - antennae (like in passionflower) help to keep them in an uplifted state.
Some plants simply climb up, invariably releasing whiskers forward that twist around any surface, they are able to twine around a branch of a neighboring plant, and even germinate through a tulle curtain, while the shoots are always directed towards the light.
In other plants, antennae grow, but less often and more cling to each other than they perform a holding function, shoots hang freely from the pot.
From the point of view of indoor floriculture, ampelous plants are distinguished by the fact that they are rarely placed on window sills, more often they decorate walls and decorative stands and tables. I would say that the main purpose of the ampelous is to decorate the room itself, the walls. Based on this, it is more correct to divide all ampelous plants into groups. Blooming and non-blooming, light-loving - shade-tolerant.
This is quite important, because placing a light-loving plant in the room, at some distance from the window, it will need additional lighting, and this is not always possible to organize, and someone simply will not have the desire to do additional lighting, without which the plant will go bald early and wither away. It should be noted right away that all flowering ampelous ones are photophilous! This does not mean that they need a south window - not at all, even cacti and succulents require shading at midday, however, when placed in a room, additional lighting may be required, and in the autumn-winter months it is simply necessary.
Decorative deciduous (not flowering) light-loving
- Peperomias creeping and creeping
- Scindapsus golden
- Chlorophytum (with yellow or white border)
- Syngonium with variegated and white leaves
- Rowley's groundwort and large reed
- Tradescantia white-flowered and striped
- Morgan's sedum
- Dwarf ficus (varieties with white or yellow edges, spots)
- Asparagus crescent, feathery, Meyer
- Codonante leafy
- Mikania trifoliate
- Ginura orange
- Vinogradovik Maksimovich or tricolor
- Pilea Kadier
The table shows not only lianas and climbing plants, but also bushy and creeping plants, which are grown as ampelous (asparagus, some cacti, etc.) and as ordinary potted plants.
What does light-loving mean:
- For decorative leafy ones, this means a bright diffused light - in the immediate vicinity of the window, right next to the tulle curtain, no further than 20 cm.
- For decorative flowering, this means a certain amount of direct sun in the morning or evening, i.e. east or west window.
Placing light-loving (flowering or variegated) in the room, sooner or later the question of supplementary lighting arises, otherwise the plants refuse to bloom, lose their variegation, become bare on one side (on the side that is farther from the light), the shoots stretch out and the leaves become smaller.
So, hypocyrta naked, escinanthus, hoyi can bloom in winter and summer, but if you provide enough light. To do this, you will have to place fluorescent lamps no more than 20 cm from the plant (incandescent and sodium lamps are also used, about this on the Home Master and Winter Garden forum). You can do without lamps only if you have a south window, not shaded by anything from the street. At the same time, the plants may well overwinter safely without stretching the shoots and disfiguring the leaves, without losing the variegation and density of the foliage, but some ampelous and lianas can never bloom without a bright sun.
The consolation is that many flowering plants are good without flowers, even with pure green leaves.
If you place the planter on a shelf on a wall or on a counter, assuming that the branches will hang down, then the pot should be light, preferably plastic, and secondly, not pressed against the wall, otherwise the crown may form one-sided. A high drainage should be done, because it is not always possible to look at the shelf in the pot, if overdrying can still be experienced in most cases, then overflow is usually detrimental to plants. Do not forget to take the plant from the shelf once a month and inspect the ground - remove the top layer if it has calcified and turned white, loosen, remove dried leaves. In addition, the higher the plant is placed, the drier the air around it, so periodic spraying or a warm shower does not interfere (carefully cover the soil in the pot with polyethylene).
However, flowers and plants in the budding phase should not be touched! Otherwise, you will lose buds and flowers, for example, hoya bella is very sensitive even to the rotation of the pot.
Arranging additional lighting for plants on the shelf is quite simple - you can simply put the lamp next to it, fix it vertically with a stud and wire, etc.
If you are placing plants in a hanging planter that can be mounted on the ceiling, wall, curtain, then of course, make sure first that being watered (i.e. heavy), the pot will not fall on your head, the chains or strings that hold the planter will not break (there were some such cases), the height at which the pot is suspended allows you to reach and touch the ground with your hands (some hang it so that you can only water it by reaching with the spout of the watering can, and not being able to check the condition of the soil). Leaves of hanging plants should not be in close contact with the crown of other plants. A tick, for example, can only be found on a plant suspended from the ceiling when the leaves begin to crumble, in which case it will safely crawl onto neighboring plants.
In this case, the placement of additional lighting may not be necessary - if the planter is suspended directly opposite the window, in the immediate vicinity (and scattered rays of light fall on it).
If the planter is suspended more than 20 cm from the window, then you may have to figure out how to place an additional light source. Alternatively, it can be a powerful lamp from the wall, in some cases there is enough lighting from the chandelier, as well as placing the lamp directly above the plant.
It should be noted that in the issue of supplementary lighting, it is important not only the power of illumination, but also the duration of daylight hours. If you turn on the chandelier in the evenings after work for 3-4 hours and expect that the plants located 2 meters away from it are well lit - a delusion.
If you tie ampelous plants and vines to a support, then you need to pay attention to the fact that the structure is easily disassembled, i.e. the branches unraveled easily, the pot was stable on a shelf, table, windowsill, i.e. in this case, a heavy clay pot is preferable.
For many plants with aerial roots, the issue of high humidity is important, in this case a tube with moss or spraying helps out. There is a very important point here: drops of water from the sprayed plant will flow directly into the pot, which means that the soil will dry out much more slowly, there will be increased humidity above the ground. Those. if the plant is often sprayed (forcing the heating season), then it should be watered much less often. Or rather, the rule applies here - it is better to spray once again, but not to water!
The other side of the coin is high air humidity, especially with high soil moisture - a favorable environment for the development of fungi and bacteria, this is aggravated by the fact when the branches are very crowded, often and tightly attached to the support. Therefore, for plants that love moist air and require spraying, add Fitosporin, Trichodermin, etc. to the water. biological products.