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The bulbs are selected large, healthy, dense to the touch. For early forcing, planting begins in September-October (flowering for the New Year), and for late forcing, in November (flowering for Christmas). If you don't plan on planting the bulbs right away, store them in a cool, dry place such as the refrigerator or basement.
Before planting, for the prevention of diseases, it is advisable to keep the bulbs in a fungicide, for example, a solution of the drug "Maxim". Dilute 1 ampoule in 1 liter of water.
An important rule: for uniform flowering, you need to plant bulbs of approximately the same size, of the same variety, if desired, and of the same color in one bowl.
You need to find a spacious, preferably a clay pot, 2-3 times the height of the bulb. Necessarily with drainage holes. Drainage is poured at the bottom. Substrate for bulbs is taken as for seedlings, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, it must be sterilized! Deciduous humus or peat with the addition of sand works well. There is an opinion that the bulbs should be screwed into the earth, as it were, compacted in a bowl. Other gardeners categorically discourage this. In fact, there is an optimal option: Drainage and earth are poured into the bowl. Then it is compacted, pressed, tamped to make it half the height of the pot, onions are placed.
Moreover, the bulbs are planted closely, tightly to each other. And the earth is filled up, in layers, which are also compacted with fingers. The tops of the bulbs must remain above the ground. As the earth is poured, in layers, it must be moistened, filled up more, crushed and moistened again. This is necessary so that with a tight fit and compaction of the earth, it is more evenly wetted. During subsequent watering, you need to ensure that the water is immediately absorbed into the substrate. The planted bulbs in a bowl are placed in a dark, cool place, where the temperature is within 5-7 ° C. The room must be well ventilated, i.e. the cellar won't do. Can be placed in the refrigerator, on the insulated balcony. Periodically, the bulbs need to be inspected, if necessary, moisten the soil, check for mold (usually noticeable on the walls of the pot).
You can transfer the bowl to the house with the appearance of young shoots. However, the temperature is desirable not higher than 15 ° C. This creates certain difficulties when forcing bulbs at home. But you can find such a place on the staircase, on the balcony, by the slightly open window (if double frames), etc. It is also necessary to ensure high humidity. For this, the bowl is placed on a tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles. There should be enough light, otherwise the peduncles will stretch out and be weak. Therefore, if natural light is not enough, you see that the arrows grow slowly, put additional lamps. Although forcing bulbs are not as demanding on light as indoor flowers. Do not forget that flowering plants need to be fed. Fertika-lux dry fertilizer is suitable for this, as well as other fertilizers, liquid or dry,intended for decorative flowering plants.
Bulbous life after flowering usually ends as indoor plants, but they can be planted in the garden. After the end of flowering, when the flowers wither, they are cut off, but while maintaining the peduncle! Plants continue to water and feed until the leaves begin to die off. Then watering is stopped, the earth in the bowl dries up and the bulbs are easily separated. They should be wrapped in dry cloth and placed in a cool place such as a refrigerator. But never in a plastic bag. Otherwise, they will suffocate and mold. In autumn, these bulbs are planted outdoors.
Bulbs that have overwintered and faded in the garden can be used for re-forcing.
Problems with forcing bulbous
The main problems are slow plant growth, delayed flowering, poor flowering.
- planting bulbs that are too weak, inferior, babies, or bulbs after the first distillation;
- insufficiently low forcing temperature;
- insufficient lighting of growing shoots;
- lack of nutrients (too poor substrate, lack of fertilizing);
- too late introduction of bulbs after waking up to room conditions;
- irregular watering.
Personal experience in forcing bulbous
svph: I share my thoughts and experiences.
1. Re-distillation of Dutch bulbs is recommended not earlier than after three years. That is, the first year is forcing, then two normal cycles in the garden, then forcing again. I only bought a forcing crocus once and tried to save the bulb. By the end of the cycle, she had grown only a replacement bulb, which was about half the size of the mother. Naturally, the next year this bulb did not bloom, although it was planted in the garden. She gave only one frail leaf. Bloomed in the third year. Gave 2 flowers. That is, for a year of "rest" she has grown a normal replacement bulb and one baby. This suggests that the bulb was not yet ready for distillation, since normally crocuses have 2-4 babies in addition to the replacement bulb. Therefore, I am inclined to the opinion of the Dutch - bulbs should be given two years of rest, and then only re-expelled.
2. While rummaging the other day in my beds, I accidentally dug up two crocus bulbs. They both had a fully developed root system and centimeter-long sprouts. Most likely, they leave for the winter so that with the first warm days they immediately appear on the surface. So, the sprouts in the refrigerator are most likely the normal state of the forcing bulbs.
3. All forcing flowers, which I happened to see in pots in the "inappropriate" time for flowering, were buried in the ground only 2/3. I was not specifically interested in forcing, but just in case, I give you this information. I think that this is done for a reason, but either to accelerate growth, or for the appearance of peduncles, or even to "turn on" the activity of the bulb.
4. Pots for forcing bulbs: plant them in a pot convenient for them (and for caring for them), and then put this pot in a beautiful flowerpot of a slightly larger size. It may not be a flower pot at all, but some kind of container: a vase, a ceramic bowl, a wide-necked jug, a decorative bucket, a plastic box decorated with moss and stones, anything you like, up to a peeled and lacquered stump. When I first found myself in the "pot" section of a flower shop in Denmark, I was surprised that 90% of the pots did not have a water hole. The situation was clarified by the mother-in-law. She was very surprised when she saw my flowers, planted directly in decorative pots. It turns out that in Denmark decorative pots are used only for "decorative" purposes, i.e. they put ordinary plastic pots in which flowers are sold.After purchase, no one transplants or handles flowers. Convenient and beautiful. And the flowers are not injured and continue to grow in the soil that was specially selected for them in the greenhouse. Decorative pots (pots, flowerpots) are selected for furniture, decoration, wallpaper, etc. They also serve as a pallet. And at first glance, you can never say that the flower is not planted, but simply inserted into the pot. For undersized bulbous (snowdrops, crocuses, scillas), you don't need pots at all, but flat bowls. So let your imagination run wild.but simply inserted into the pot. For undersized bulbous (snowdrops, crocuses, scillas), you don't need pots at all, but flat bowls. So let your imagination run wild.but simply inserted into the pot. For undersized bulbous (snowdrops, crocuses, scillas), you don't need pots at all, but flat bowls. So let your imagination run wild.
natalyf: I don't have any special conditions for forcing, I don't even have a balcony. I waited until it got a little cold outside, and planted the bulbs in pots, one at a time in a 5-7 cm pot. Those that were planted in 2 did not bloom. The tail should stick out above the ground. And the crocuses were covered with earth almost completely. They can be pushed into the pot in large quantities. I planted 3 hyacinths in a larger pot, but they must be of the same flowering period in order to grow at the same time.
I planted it and took it out the front door (you can use the balcony), there, in the entrance, the temperature is about +15 and the lighting is weaker than in the house. The point is that temperature and lighting should be reduced gradually. I kept them there for 7-10 days, and at the entrance it was also gradually getting colder. Then she put the minimum cold in the refrigerator - about +10 degrees, wrapped the pots with newspaper and put them at the very bottom, in the place of vegetable containers. Now we are waiting. If food starts to disappear, you can gradually lower the temperature in the refrigerator a little. About once every 2 weeks, I took out the pots and checked the soil. If dry, then wetted slightly.
The first sprouts hatched after about 2 weeks and grew slowly and slowly. But I was impatient, and I hurried, pulling out the largest sprouts in 6 weeks. They never bloomed. Then I noticed that the larger the sprout grew in the refrigerator, the more likely it was to bloom. By the way, everything bloomed with hyacinths and crocuses, but with tulips and daffodils it is a little more complicated. The irises did not bloom at all.
You need to wait 8-12 weeks. The growth rate depends on the variety (early or late) and the quality of the bulbs. When the sprout reached 5-7 centimeters, I took it out of the refrigerator and - outside the front door, put it in a box with a lid - protected from light.
Gradually moved the lid, enlarging the gap for the light. After 7-10 days, when they gradually got used to the light and turned green, they brought them into the apartment and put them in the coolest room, I have a kitchen, there is no battery and the window is always ajar - cyclamens are frolicking there. Again, the temperature and lighting should rise gradually. I didn't put it on the windowsill right away, I held it a meter away from the window for a couple of days, and then moved it to the window. When the buds were collected, I transferred them to the hall, to the most honorable place! But! It is important! Forcing plants are spring flowers and love coolness. If the room is hot, they won't like it.
barsuchok: I will tell you a little from the information, how and why to cool the bulbs, and how to adjust the flowering to the desired date.
In nature, in the autumn-winter period, the synthesis and accumulation of gibberellin, a substance that causes shoot growth, occurs in the bulbs (tulips). So, in order for the same processes to take place in the forcing bulbs, they are artificially cooled for a long time in the dark at a temperature of 9 degrees (usually this is the bottom of the refrigerator). But, cooling can be carried out only after the flower rudiments have formed, otherwise "blind buds" may appear. So why do we refrigerate bulbs? Cooling speeds up the development of the planted plants. Rooting takes place faster by 8-14 days, and flowering occurs earlier by 11-14 days, compared with bulbs stored until planting at 20 degrees. The total cooling period (including the rest period) for early forcing is 130 - 155 days (about 5 months is obtained).The date for the beginning of the cooling of the bulbs is set as follows: to the number of weeks required for cooling, add another 3-4 weeks for growth and count this time back from the planned flowering date. Forcing bulbs are usually planted in October.
irina-bahus: I started this business because the bulbs ordered from some online store came to me at the end of October, when I was no longer going to the village. I planted chionodoxes, botanical tulips, woodlands and botanical daffodils (small) in plastic pots, as many as fit into the pot, but so that the bulbs did not touch. I sprinkled it with earth, but it turned out very low, because drainage takes up space, and the pots are not high. She poured all this, put it in a dark bag and put it in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. The shoots came out in late November - early December. During this time, I never had to water (I checked the ground).
The sprouts, as it was read, were sitting in the refrigerator up to 5 cm in height. Then all this stood near the balcony door (it is, of course, light there, but not very much, and it blows decently). As they turned green, I put them on the windowsill. The streams began to bloom in late January, then chionodox bloomed in early February, and tulips opened neatly for their birthday. Botanical daffodils (under the same conditions) produced beautiful greenery, but not a single flower arrow was present. The greens began to wither in April-May, at the same time I cut them off, dried the bulbs and stored them in a cardboard box at room temperature (to be honest, I just forgot them in the closet). Here in October I will plant them in the garden. What I remembered exactly - after forcing the bulbs are very weakened, they must be in natural conditions: they must be planted in the fall, and so that there is a normal wintering.