Table of contents:
- Vallota appearance
- How to care for a wallot
- Landing and transplanting a vallot
- Breeding Vallota
- Growing problems
Once, having come to visit my grandmother, I saw a blooming Hippeastrum on her window. Violently expressing my admiration, I turned my attention to a nearby plant. Dark green leaves, an elongated bulb about 8 cm in diameter and a dozen children looking out above the ground. “Also a hippo,” I decided, and asked my grandmother what color the flowers this comrade had. But, as it turned out, for all the time that the flower was with her, it never bloomed. The former mistress told her grandmother only that this "lily" blooms red.
It was at this time that my craze for indoor plants, in particular their bulbous part, was renewed. Seeing the interest, my grandmother decided to give me this sufferer. The sufferer was brought home, chosen from all sides and settled in the window. The goal shone in my brain in red letters: to make it bloom! And how to make a hippus bloom with an 8-centimeter bulb? Right! Put to sleep! Which is what I tried to do. She dug up the unfortunate plant from a three-liter paint can in which it lived, and laid it on its side in the coolness to dry the leaves. It didn’t want to do it, but I’m persistent! As a result, after a month of such execution, we had 2 sheets out of 12. And then I saw between the sheets a small nose of a young leaf. "Awoke!" - I was delighted. Pulled the poor man out into the light of Godshe cut off the long roots and planted them in a small pot. A few days later, the young leaf dried up, growing no more than a centimeter. And then it struck me like lightning: Is it a hippo at all ???
Vallotta or, as some sources say, Valotta (which is not correct) is a plant of the Amaryllis family. Not having as many varieties as Hippeastrum, she is not inferior to him in grace. Originally from the Cape Province of South Africa, Vallotta got its name from the French botanist Pierre Vallot and has been cultivated as a houseplant since the 17th century.
The genus of Vallota includes only one species - the beautiful Vallota speciosa, however, according to the English taxonomic nomenclature, the genus consisted of 3 plant species. According to the latest data, Vallota speciosa and Vallota purpurea are transferred to the genus Cyrtanthus and are called Cyrtanthus sublime Cyrtanthus elatus, and Vallota miniata to the genus Clivia. There are many names in the literature, which, nevertheless, belong to the same plant. So, the beautiful Vallota (Vallota speciosa (L. f.) T. Durand & Schinz) has the following synonyms: Cyrtanthus elatus (Jacq.) Traub.), Amaryllis sublime (Amaryllis elata Jacq. (Basionym)), Amaryllis purple (Amaryllis purpurea Aiton), Beautiful Crinum (Crinum speciosum L. f.), Purple Vallota (Vallota purpurea (Aiton) Herb.).
There are several common varieties:
- Vallota speciosa 'Alba' - white flowers;
- Vallota speciosa 'Magnifica' - flowers with a white eye;
- Vallota speciosa 'Major' - large-flowered (up to 12 cm);
- Vallota speciosa 'Minor' - small-flowered and narrow-leaved.
Vallota is a deciduous bulbous plant. Dark green leaves 25-40 long and up to 4 cm wide are collected in a fan-shaped rosette, which looks quite impressive even on a non-flowering plant. The leaves have such a weakly expressed central vein that on some plants the leaves are completely flat, in contrast to the grooved leaf of Hippeastrum.
The main feature by which you can distinguish the wallot from other amaryllis is the deep purple color of the leaf base. The bulb is oblong-ovoid, sometimes pear-shaped, pink-brown in color with a massive neck, which in some plants does not have a clear border with the bulb body. If you remove the upper scales, you can see an interesting play of color: it changes from almost white at the bottom of the bulb to dark pink at the neck.
Vallota babies, unlike the same Hippeastrum, are formed not at the bottom of the bulb, but above the surface of the soil. Thanks to special "legs", babies rise above the mother's bulb, break through the upper dry scales and appear in all their glory. Initially, the baby has no leaves. Only when it forms its own roots, which "pull" the baby into the ground a little, will the leaves appear.
Vallota blooms in spring, summer or autumn, with good care - and twice a year. On a hollow leafless peduncle, 2-9 funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers of bright red color open. After pollination, a fruit-box is tied, which cracks after the seeds ripen.
How to care for a wallot
Vallota feels good on light windowsills, even direct sunlight is not contraindicated for her. However, care must be taken that the temperature does not rise above 25 ° C. On hot days, it is better to remove the plant deep into the room or at least shade it a little.
During the growing season, Vallotta requires constantly moist soil, but you still need to avoid the bay - the bulb can rot. In nature, Vallota grows in the humid tropics, so she will also appreciate regular spraying. You just need to ensure that water does not fall on the inflorescences.
To achieve flowering, the plant needs a small, even cramped pot. In a wide and deep pot, babies grow en masse, the mother's bulb is gaining volume, but does not even think about flowering.
During the growing season and flowering period, Vallot should be fed once every 14 days with liquid fertilizers for flowering plants or universal fertilizer, diluting them according to the manufacturer's instructions.
In September, after the end of flowering, watering is reduced, but not completely stopped. The plant is placed in a cool (12-16 ° C) place. Vallota, unlike Hippeastrum, does not lose leaves during the dormant period, so watering is necessary. In winter, Vallota is watered only after the earthen lump dries out enough, but in no case dries up.
After my "efforts" my sufferer, who turned out to be the beautiful Vallota, fell into despondency. Leaves sagged, and there could be no talk of any growth. Only the onion pleased - after all, as much as 8 cm. Well, I think, nothing - now the roots will recover, and it will grow again. And to take root faster, you need enough moisture. I will water efficiently. Several weeks have passed, and horror! The upper scales on the bulb turned gray and became wet and slippery. I was shocked. After all, I know that you cannot water the bulbous ones heavily until they are fully rooted, and yet I did it. After reprimanding myself properly, I began to think about how to save the situation. First of all, she stopped watering, loosened the ground. It was difficult to do this, the pot is 12 cm in diameter, and the onion, as you remember, is as much as 8. That and look you hurt. But I did it. In the process of loosening, she carefully ripped off the wet scales as she could.The body of the bulb did not seem to have suffered, but to be on the safe side, I still poured it with the Maxim solution, repeated it a week later and dried the soil thoroughly. The rot stopped, the onion dried out, but growth did not resume. For the desire at all costs to see flowering, or at least a young leaf, I completely forgot about when Vallota had a period of rest. Why would she grow up in February?
Landing and transplanting a vallot
As mentioned above, the pot for Vallota needs to be quite tight. In a spacious pot, children will massively grow (up to 10 pieces per year), but it is difficult to achieve flowering. Vallota's soil should be light but very nutritious. In the literature, you can find several recipes for preparing a soil mixture, let's dwell on the most common ones.
Option 1. Sod land with an admixture of leafy soil and peat, as well as rotted mullein and coarse sand in a ratio of 3: 2: 2: 1: 1.
Option 2. Deciduous land, sod land, humus (4: 1: 2) with the addition of sand and bone meal.
Option 3 (mainly for sowing seeds). A mixture of turf, peat, leafy soil and sand (1: 2: 1: 2).
Option 4 (good for raising children). Sod, leafy, humus soil, sand (1: 1: 1: 1).
Option 5 (not written anywhere, found empirically).
My Vallota grows in a substrate, which consists of leafy soil from under fruit trees with pieces of bark - 3 parts, peat land (ordinary universal soil for indoor - sold in a store) - 2 parts, sand - 1 part, crushed charcoal - 1 part.
Good drainage is required in the pot. What it will be - expanded clay, gravel or foam - you decide. The main thing is that the drainage layer is at least 2 cm and the pot has a sufficient number of drainage holes.
The bulb is planted in the ground without covering the neck, otherwise it may rot. My Vallota sits in the ground only up to its widest part - about 1/3, and feels great. Vallota is transplanted no more often than once every 2-3 years, since the plant perceives any damage to the root system very painfully. Some sources recommend planting Vallota in open ground for the summer period, where it grows and develops well. This is really true, besides, you can put a plant in the garden without damaging the roots, but how to make it so that the plant transfers from garden to pot without loss? If you're confident in your capabilities, why not indulge the plant in nutritious garden soil? If you are not sure, it is better not to risk it, but simply put the pot with Vallota outside or bury it on the edge of the pot in the ground.
If you decide to somehow place Vallota in the air, choose a place where there will be no scorching midday sun rays. The best option is the openwork shade of the trees in the middle of the day and sunlight at sunrise or before sunset.
Desperate to see young leaves in February, I came up with a wonderful idea to look at the roots of the plant. Having pulled the long-suffering Vallota out of the pot, I shook off the ground and admired the new strong roots, which looked no more than a couple of weeks. Along with the soil, the remnants of old roots, which had been mercilessly trimmed by me, fell off. And then I realized my mistake: in no case should Vallot be transplanted often! Any damage to the root leads to its death, it is unlikely to grow further. The plant will spend precious energy building up a new root. From experience with separated children, I already knew that they begin to grow leaves only when they firmly hold the roots to the ground. An adult plant lives on the same principle. Sighing and once again cursing my curiosity,As carefully as I could, I put Vallota back in the pot, along the way replacing the soil with a more nutritious one. On top of the soil, I poured a layer of fine (up to 1 cm in diameter) expanded clay. It does not allow the topsoil to dry out and be compacted. You can check the moisture in the pot just by pushing the expanded clay with your finger and touching the soil. I noticed that with expanded clay on top, the earthen lump dries out more evenly and not as quickly as without it. After transplanting, she settled Vallota on the southern window and left him alone, periodically watering and sprinkling.that with expanded clay on top, the earthen lump dries out more evenly and not as quickly as without it. After transplanting, she settled Vallota on the southern window and left him alone, periodically watering and sprinkling.that with expanded clay on top, the earthen lump dries out more evenly and not as quickly as without it. After transplanting, she settled Vallota on the southern window and left him alone, periodically watering and sprinkling.
Like all other representatives of the Amaryllis family, Vallotta reproduces by seeds, babies and bulb division.
The most common way is with children. Fortunately, the plant produces them very generously. Children are separated from the mother plant during transplantation, most often in the spring before leaving the dormant period. For separation, those children who already have their own roots are suitable, and preferably those that are no longer associated with the mother's bulb by the "leg" on which they have moved out of the ground. Such children are already ready for an independent life. Babies that already have roots, but are still associated with the mother plant, take root much worse in a separate pot, so it is better to postpone their separation, if possible. Those children who do not yet have their own roots practically do not survive after separation.
Seed propagation is not so popular, but no less interesting. Unlike reproduction by children, seedlings immediately have their own roots, which increases the survival rate of bulbs at times. To get seeds, after flowering, you just need to leave an ovary on the peduncle - a box. If there are several such boxes, it is better to leave only one, the largest and strongest. After ripening, the capsule cracks, which is a signal for the collection of seeds. The collected seeds quickly lose their germination, therefore they need to be sown soon after collection, in September-October, and sometimes in January. Sow into the prepared substrate, moisten it, cover with glass or other transparent material. Constantly sprayed and ventilated. At a temperature of 16-18 ° C, seedlings appear in 3-4 weeks. The first pick is made 6 months after germination.When planting, the neck of young bulbs is covered. In the summer, watered so that between waterings the top layer of the substrate dries up, excess water is poured from the pan. In winter, they are kept in a well-lit place with a temperature of about 16 ° C, with moderate watering. Babies usually bloom at 2-3 years of age.
In the second year, in spring, young plants are planted in pots or boxes. In September, the plants are dug up and planted in pots (about 9-10 centimeters) corresponding to the bulb size. The substrate is composed of sod, leafy or humus soil and sand (1: 1: 1). When planting, the neck of the bulb should protrude above the soil surface. In winter, the plants are kept in a bright room with a temperature of about 16C. In the third year, the plants are not provided with a dormant period, however, starting from the end of June, watering is reduced, continuing to intensively ventilate. From the book Greenhouse Plants (S.G.Sakov). The flowering of seedlings can usually be seen at 4-5 years.
They also practice reproduction of Vallota by dividing the bulb. A healthy adult onion is cut into 4 parts with a sharp knife so that a part of the bottom remains on each. Sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, dried and planted in a substrate similar to that used for children or a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1) for rooting. For the formation of new bulbs, the air temperature must be at least 20 ° C. Usually such bulbs bloom in the third year.
After washing all winter and all cold March, I was already desperate to ever see my Vallota during the growing season. And now it happened! On April 10, looking between the remaining two leaves, I saw two more pale green leaves that were reaching for the light. Did my whole family enjoy the songs and dancing around the windowsill? And on April 20, I saw 2 more new sheets! Now I am writing this article and admiring four, no, already six sheets from light green to dark green, and the soul sings. Still, I had enough common sense not to completely ruin such beauty! It remains to wait for flowering. I hope, despite the lack of a cool wintering, it will come. And if not, there is another year ahead. After all that we have suffered, we are not afraid of anything!
In general, Vallota is an unpretentious plant, however, and she has her own whims. In particular, Vallota does not like very high temperatures in summer - above 25 ° C, in this case it must be rearranged to a cooler place.
A sharp temperature drop at night, or a draft, especially if it is on the balcony, can also adversely affect the plant. Of the diseases that can threaten Vallota, it is most often gray rot - with excessive watering in cold weather or in winter with a cool content. Fusarium can also appear. Young bulbs usually die quickly, while an adult bulb can fight the disease for a long time. However, special treatment is still indispensable. Of the pests, Vallotu is most often affected by the scale insect, the red spider mite.
If the plant does not bloom, there may be several reasons: the pot is too spacious, the children have not separated from the bulb for a long time, a cool dormant period was not provided in winter.
Vallota is poisonous, so you need to be careful so that small children and pets do not try to "taste" any part of the plant. Bulbs in which the concentration of toxic substances is much higher than in leaves and flowers are especially dangerous. It is recommended that you wash your hands and all tools thoroughly after handling the plant.
Despite the amount written, Vallota is a very unpretentious and tenacious plant. If you do not experiment with it, like the ones I did, your plant will grow successfully and delight the owners. I hope I didn't bore the reader too much with so much information. I would be glad if my experience is useful to you. Good mood and healthy plants!
Best regards, Oksana Dyachenko (OxyKsu)
Vallota in the encyclopedia
Family Amaryllidaceae Amaryllidaceae