Roses At Home

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Roses At Home
Roses At Home
Video: Roses At Home
Video: How to grow roses for beginners | Garden ideas 2023, February


  • Buying roses
  • How to water roses
  • Fertilizing roses
  • Pruning roses and replanting
  • Rose pests
  • Roses in winter
  • Color variability in roses

Buying roses

indoor roses
indoor roses

First of all, I try to buy a healthy plant. In the store, I check for pests. The size of the flower depends on the size of the wallet at one time or another. In principle, you can quickly collect a collection of different roses by buying tiny pots for 100 (or even cheaper) rubles. Rose is a fairly fast growing plant, so you don't have to worry about the size. In a couple of months, the plant can reach quite decent sizes.

After buying a plant, I try to immediately (or within a week) transfer the plant to a slightly larger pot. The pot must necessarily have drainage holes. At the bottom of the pot I pour drainage (small or medium expanded clay) with a layer of 2.5 - 3 cm. I take the soil purchased (I try to choose a special one for roses, or a universal flower one. I prefer Vermion or Seliger Agro). I put a little soil in the pot, then I take the rose out of the purchased pot (without destroying the earthen lump) and put this "lump" in a new pot, so that the purchased soil layer is slightly below the level of the new pot.

Caring for Roses - in the section of the Encyclopedia of Houseplants.

Frequently asked questions about roses

Then I pour fresh earth into the gaps along the edge of the pot. I compact the earth and add a little more earth so that the top layer of earth does not reach the very edge of the pot (for convenience when watering). Then I water the overloaded plant abundantly, spray it with Epin or Zircon solution (1 ampoule for 300-500 ml of water) and put it in a shady place for about a week. It is not possible to spray with stimulants immediately, but, say, one day after the transplant. Then, after the plant has adapted to indoor conditions, I transfer it to a permanent place. Preferably on the southern windowsill. Or on any other where there is sun (but, to be completely honest, my roses lived on the absolutely northern window for almost 2 years! There was no sun at all! And they grew and bloomed like crazy!). Just as far as I know, roses still prefer southern sunny places.

How to water roses

Watering - as the soil dries up. I spill the plant abundantly after the earthen coma dries. On sunny days, I can water every day (provided that the plants are on a sunny windowsill). Watering is carried out in the morning or in the evening, so that the roots in the sun do not "cook".

Spraying - it is advisable to spray every day (even several times a day). Moisture prevents the appearance of spider mites on plants. Sometimes it is not bad to rinse the plants with a warm shower (or, as some call it "hot shower", that is, the water temperature is somewhere around 40 C 42 degrees). If possible, then I do this procedure once a week. Plants like it a lot. After such water procedures, it is advisable to leave the plants in the bathroom until they dry as much as possible. So that the plants seem to stand in a "steam room".

Fertilizing roses

You need to feed the roses one and a half to two months after the transplant, if it was carried out. If the roses were transferred into a new pot, keeping part of the old land, then you can feed it in a month. Fertilization is permissible only on wet soil, during the period of active growth - from March to September. As a top dressing, special fertilizers for roses or fertilizers for decorative flowering, potted plants or garden flowers are used: good reviews on fertilizers from Pokon, Agricola, Fertika (Kemira), Merry Flower Girl or others. You can combine fertilizers for roses: apply at the beginning of growth feeding nitrogenous preparations, i.e. for the growth of leaves (for example, Uniflor Growth), and after a month fertilization with potassium and phosphorus (for flowering ones, for example, Uniflor Bud).

All types of fertilizers must be diluted strictly according to the instructions, the dose must not be exceeded, the roses must be fed every two weeks, or more often, for example, once a week, but the fertilizer must be diluted in half the dose. You can apply fertilizers in the form of granules or sticks. But I prefer liquid fertilizers.

Pruning roses and replanting

In late February, early March, I cut the bushes. I shape it at will. Short enough. This year I watered and sprayed the bushes with the preparation "Athlete" (according to the instructions) to slow down the growth of plants. The result is very positive. The leaves became brighter, darker, and the bushes remained compact for a long time.

I usually transplant it every year into fresh soil in a slightly larger pot. If the pot is not small anyway, you can replace only the top layer of the earth, and transplant, say, in a year.

Rose pests

indoor roses
indoor roses

The most common pest found on roses is the spider mite. Small brown insect, hardly distinguishable at the initial stage of infection. In the later stages of the development of the disease, the plants are covered with a cobweb, on which moving brownish dots can already be clearly seen. To detect a pest at the initial stage of development, you should inspect the plants at least a couple of times a week. First of all, carefully examine the underside of the leaves. At the same time, one should not neglect the outer side of the sheet, on which one can see, as it were, discolored spots or even dots, which may also indicate the presence of a tick. Also, partial yellowing of the leaves can signal the presence of a pest.

Methods for dealing with spider mites - spray plants with Actellik or Fitoverma solution (dilute according to instructions). I mix one ampoule with 500 ml of water. Actellic is undoubtedly stronger than Fitoverm, but the second has a less strong chemical smell. Spray very generously, paying particular attention to the underside of the leaves. It should be sprayed on the balcony (in calm weather) or in the bathroom. Leaving the plant there until it dries completely or as much as possible. I do this procedure literally in 4-6 days. About 3-4 times. And then, as a preventive measure, every 2-3 weeks.

Roses in winter

My roses overwinter in exactly the same way as other plants. That is, on the windowsill. On my windowsill, the temperature usually keeps around 13 degrees. This is enough not to "go bald", but not to grow. My bushes are green, without pests (good for them it's too low temperature!). I water it much less often than in the summer. I just make sure that the leaves do not fall (do not wither). Usually, not abundant watering is obtained once a week. Sometimes I spray or wash the plants with a warm shower. In winter, I do not feed the plants and do not cut them.

Color variability in roses

Sometimes you have to observe a color change in rose flowers. This is especially true for yellow shades. For example, you buy a bright yellow rose, and for the second flowering it gives out faded flowers. Or orange flowers tend to discolor. What is the reason, I find it difficult to answer. It can be with the acidity of the soil, or with top dressing, or with light. However, I noticed that after watering the plants with the Athlete, the flowers and leaves of the roses became brighter.

The leaves turned dark green and the flowers returned to their original color. But, these are just my observations. Also, I noticed that in subsequent flowering (after purchase) roses change their doubleness. They become less graceful than when purchased. They become more terry - shaggy. And also, white flowers of roses tend to green (but it's also a mystery to me why this happens).

By barsuchok

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