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Citrus Forum Guru Alex explains:
Almost all indoor fruit plants are easily propagated by cuttings, tangerine cuttings are the most difficult to root, therefore, grafting is used when propagating them.
Consider the simplest ways of grafting. Cut the branch of the plant, which is intended for reproduction, into cuttings. To do this, make the lower cut under the kidney (2-3 mm below the kidney), remove the bottom 2 leaves, leave the next 2-3 leaves. If the leaves are very long, we shorten them (cut with scissors) by 2/3 of the length. The upper cut is made 5 mm higher than the sheet. We prepare the rest of the cuttings in the same way. Prepare a solution of root or heteroauxin, and put cuttings in it (preparation of the solution and processing time are indicated in the instructions).
We are preparing a greenhouse for rooting cuttings. Previously, I used a bottom-heated aquarium for these purposes - now I use mini-plates made from 2-liter plastic bottles (Bonaqua, Aquaminerale) of transparent and blue colors. The place where the neck of the bottle ends has a slight thickening in diameter, and along this circle I cut off the neck. I trim the lower part, at the bottom I make holes for moisture drain. The neck of the bottle fits easily and firmly on the bottom. We pour expanded clay on the bottom, a layer of sand and fill it almost to the brim with soil, consisting of soil for citrus and sand, in a ratio of 1: 1. We stick in the cuttings 2-3 cm and water until the water comes out onto the pan. Drain excess water, cover with a neck, and place in a warm, bright place. Maintain the temperature at about 25 degrees.No need to water while rooting. When the plants take root (the roots are close to the plastic and will be visible), transplant carefully into pots with a capacity of about 1 liter.
Another important point when rooting: position the greenhouse so that more daylight falls on the front of the leaf blades, i.e. the plate should be parallel to the glass. Light is absolutely necessary, the process of photosynthesis is underway. It is desirable that all the leaves receive a sufficient amount of light (a stalk with 3 leaves rooted faster than a stalk with 1 leaf), but this is not always done - I have several cuttings rooting in each greenhouse, they all take root, some a little earlier, others later.
Flowering (citrus fruits often bloom on rooting) delays the formation of roots or those, but develops very slowly. I have two greenhouses with lemon cuttings. In one, the cuttings did not bloom, powerful roots are visible through the plastic, no roots are observed in the flowering one.
The second easy way. Fill a peat pot with a 1: 1 mixture of soil and sand, water well, stick the cuttings 2-3 cm, put in a plastic bag, tie the bag and put it on the window frame. He will not bother you. In rooted plants, the roots will "sew" through the peat pot and come out - this is clearly visible through the bag. Transplant the plant along with the peat pot.
If moss grows on the soil surface, I remove it occasionally. To reduce the formation of algae and moss, you can shade the soil over the surface of the plastic with a tape of black paper.
By the way, "naked" cuttings (without leaves) also take root. The year before last, in the fall, I put citron cuttings on rooting, some took root, and one cutting did not want to take root. So he stood with me naked until this spring, now the root system has formed, and the first leaves have appeared.
I use heteroauxin as follows: I dilute a quarter of the tablet in 50 ml of water and lower the lower sections of the cuttings there for 8 hours, then I plant the cuttings in a greenhouse. I water the planted cuttings with the remaining solution.
Watering cuttings in a greenhouse with a growth stimulant is not necessary. If the cuttings do not take root, then they do not dry out, but usually rot, turn black or turn brown, sometimes a bloom of mold appears. When rooting, look at the greenhouse more often, at the first symptoms of rot, remove the diseased cuttings.
Young roots are very delicate and fragile - be careful when removing cuttings from the greenhouse and planting in the ground. Cuttings with two or three leaves take root better and faster, rooting occurs more slowly with cut leaves, cuttings without leaves take root even more slowly, but they should not be thrown away either, but try to root.
Cuttings root better at a temperature of 22-25 degrees. heat in good lighting, slower at a temperature of 18-20 degrees., at temperatures below 15 degrees. most often rotting of cuttings occurs. I did not use zircon during rooting and I do not know its action in practice.
Real lemons take root very easily, they include Novogruzinsky, Pavlovsky, Uralsky, Genoa, hybrids take root more difficult, it all depends on what kind of parents the hybrids had, the most difficult rooting is in mandarin cuttings and their hybrids. Indeed Panderosa takes root easier than Meyer's. Pazderosa is a hybrid of lemon with (presumably) grapefruit, Meyer's with orange.
Planting rooted cuttings
The plants are rooted and it is important to preserve them after transplanting. After transplanting into separate containers, I cover the rooted cuttings with the cut neck of a plastic bottle, leave it in this form for 2-3 weeks to increase the humidity inside the structure and for more comfortable conditions for the development of roots. Then I unscrew the cork, in this form I keep it for another week. The next stage of adaptation is to cover the cutting for several days with the neck of the bottle with the neck cut off and for a few more days to find it in the cylinder cut from the middle part of the bottle. After carrying out these activities, the cutting is completely accustomed to growing in indoor conditions.
Rooting lemon in water
One of the forum participants, Valery, says:
I take a 250 ml bottle. (transparent glass) with a threaded neck. I take the lid from a plastic bottle (it twists well on the st. Bottle), in which I make a hole for a handle (or a group of cuttings). I fill the bottle with well-settled water. At the top of the bottle I attach (with tape or tape) a small wire frame. From the base of the cutting, along the stem, I make four vertical cuts in the bark (evenly every 90 grams) 0.5-1.5 cm long (depending on the cutting).
I immerse the wet bases of the cuttings in the root (powder) and after about 5 minutes of exposure in the air I put them (through the hole in the lid) together with the remnants of the root in water. I put a polythene (transparent) bag on the frame and tie it tightly at the bottom of the bottle. I cut off the upper corner of the bag, spray (through this hole the handle) water, inflate the bag and tightly "seal" this hole. From time to time I repeat - I spray and inflate. I kept this structure on the windowsill closer to the heating riser (winter). As a backlight, I took turns using two fluora L 36 W / 77 and Philips TLD 36W / 89 fluorescent lamps. And the sun (a rare guest in my window) helped. In this way, I managed to root cuttings of orange, pomegranate and 3 varieties of lemon.
When rooting with my design, I periodically spray the cuttings. And every day I inflate the bag with my exhalation, creating an increased air pressure there. An isolated atmosphere with increased pressure is obtained. It contains an abundance of carbon dioxide and oxygen. Increased humidity and pressure prevent water from evaporating from the leaf surface - which is important when rooting! I began to use an isolated atmosphere with increased air pressure from my lungs when rooting in the ground.
My opinion is to root, difficult-to-root plants are better in the substrate. Water for well-rooted only.
Orange air cut
According to one of the forum members, tsitrys:
Anticipating the death of the orange, I made an air cut on 17.07.06.
08/15/06 checked the presence of roots - there was only a coallus. Re-layered at this point.
16.10.06. I didn't have enough patience again: I tore apart the package.
The first roots appeared.They
are still very small, but for fear of breaking them, I planted them in the ground. As you can see, when landing in the ground, there are already branches of the 3rd order.
Its root is 07.11.06.
Lemon cuttings - in questions and answers