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I'll tell you about the treatment from my own experience.
I received my long-awaited order in early June. I began to examine carefully the bulbs. One of the bulbs seemed soft to me, moreover, dark spots with red strokes on dry scales were alerted (photo 1).
I decided to remove the scales and saw rot (photo 2).
After removing the upper scales, I found a small internal rot (photo 3) and rot on the bottom (photo 4).
I cut out all the rot with a clean knife. The sections were processed with brilliant green (photo 5).
Has dried (2 hours) and processed in Maxim. Maxim diluted 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. In this solution, the onion was soaked for 30 minutes (photo 6).
After processing in Maxim, the onion was placed in a dry, dark place and dried for about two days. Before planting, I removed withered roots (after processing in Maxim, rotten roots dry out and are easily removed). Powdered the bottom with root root and planted it in the ground with vermiculite.
A few days later, a gray bloom appeared on the bottom of the onion and the scales continued to get wet (photo 7).
This happened due to waterlogging of the soil. The soil dried out for a long time, there were no young roots yet. Again she removed the weeping scales, scraped off the gray plaque with a knife and washed it in a solution of potassium permanganate (medium concentration) (photo 8).
In photo 8, red spots on the sections are mechanical damage, they do not need to be removed.
I dried it and planted it in the ground again, only this time I didn't bury it, but made a small hole, added vermiculite to it and put the onion in its bottom, without sprinkling it with earth. Where there was no bottom, I put a small jar (photo 9).
After that, every day I loosened the soil, watered only as it dries. Two or three weeks after flowering, I discovered a rotten peduncle (photo 10).
I carefully removed it with tweezers. Once again, I carefully examined the bulb, there was no rot. In early August, new roots appeared on the bulb and leaves began to grow. In November, the bulb had good leaves (photo 11).
So, the hippeastrum survived, where the bottom remained, grew roots, and many children appeared from the sides of the bulb. Here he is at the end of March when transplanting (before retirement) (photo 12).
How to treat rot
My recommendations: if you have found rot, you shouldn't panic, almost any bulb can be saved. It is important to create the right conditions after treatment.
1. Be sure to inspect the bulb before planting. Symptoms of rot: the bulb is soft to the touch (it should be noted that immediately after flowering, the onion may dry out and be with voids, this is normal, since it has expended energy on flowering); the upper scales on the bulb are soft, slimy, may be with red spots; dry or wet red spots on the bottom; sudden red streaks on the leaves and roots (I will immediately make a reservation that redness on the leaves and roots, and the bulb can be mechanical damage or thermal burn, only it does not suddenly appear and does not develop further); roots are soft, slimy, with redness (healthy roots of the hippeastrum are white, if the roots are black, slimy - rot).
2. I will say a little about the stages of development. If the rot is found in the flowering stage, and the bulb is noticeably weakened, then it is better to remove the peduncles. In the growing season - you process, plant, for a couple of days while it is without soil, nothing will happen to it (after processing in Maxim, the roots will slightly tighten, but it will quickly grow them). At rest - processed and removed to a dry, dark place (just not in the refrigerator, it's damp there), you can put it in a pot of vermiculite (or in sawdust, or wrap it in a hygroscopic cloth, for example, in burlap) and at first be sure to observe it so that rot does not develop further.
3. About drugs. From rot in bulbous help: Maxim, foundationol, oxychom, vitaros, potassium permanganate.
4. Before planting, for better root formation, you can dust it with root root or spill the ground with a solution of heterauxin with zircon.
5. When planting, good drainage and a properly selected container are important (the pot should be 2 cm larger than the bulb).
6. A heavily affected bulb should not be buried, it is better to plant it so that later you can add earth.
7. It is advisable to choose a place on the windowsill so that the bare bulb does not fall under the scorching sun (this is from about 12 to 16 hours, although we all have different lighting conditions) until the upper scales dry out. Do not forget that hippeastrum are photophilous and they need light to recover (therefore, do not put the bulb in a dark corner).
8. Do not make a swamp, watering should be as it dries up and in no case should water get on the bulb during watering.
9. Until the bulb has good roots, it is necessary to loosen the soil every day.
10. Feed the weakened bulb not earlier than 1.5-2 months later.
11. High air humidity and sudden temperature changes can lead to further rotting of the bulb. The moisture can be controlled with vermiculite. You feel that the soil dries out badly, added vermiculite. Average temperature during flowering and growing season hail. 20, during the rest period - hail. 15.
12. During the growing season, you can shed the soil with Maxim or phytosporin, or trichodermin.
Article author: Elena Talantova (Elena)