Variegated Violets

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Variegated Violets
Variegated Violets
Video: Variegated Violets
Video: 3 Beautiful Variegated African Violets! 🌸🌸🌸😍 2023, February

1. Variegated leaves, like all other violets, depending on the variety, can be very capricious and difficult to cultivate, or, conversely, be very vigorous and blooming profusely.

So, variegated varieties with green flowers, such as 'Frozen in Time', bloom very long and profusely.

2. Variegated leaves can be divided into the following groups by leaf color:

  • Fringing variegation, when the leaves have a border of white, beige, pink or yellow along the edge. It looks like a lace frill at the leaves, very harmonious with the colors: 'Raspberry Rampade', 'RebelТs Valiant', 'Pink Sensation', 'BucKeye Crenberry Sparkle', 'BucKeye Colossal', 'Burnished Halo', etc.
  • Crown variegation, when the center of the rosette, young leaves are almost completely lightened, sometimes completely white or pink. Varieties 'FredetteТs Risen Star', 'Private Dancer', 'Apahe Spring'.
  • Mosaic variegation, when all leaves are evenly covered with strokes and spots of a different color, or lighter green.

Standard varieties with mosaic variegation do not bloom profusely, with smallish flowers. Beauty lies more in the outlet itself. But there are miniature varieties with beautiful flowering: 'DeanТs Aguarius', 'MacТs Just', 'RobТs Zippity Doo'.

Sometimes variegation appears spontaneously in common varieties. For example, I have fixed mosaic variegation in the 'Valeska Blue' variety, its leaves are covered with green-yellow strokes.

varietal violets
varietal violets

3. Variegated leaves with wavy leaves, such as 'Apache Freedom', 'Royal Rade', 'Alamo', 'Gold Rush', are very effective. Their rosettes are beautiful without flowers. In the most variegated, it is difficult to achieve abundant flowering, and at the end of flowering they rest longer. The first flowering also has to wait a long time, only a well-developed rosette gives flower stalks.

4. When cultivating variegated leaves with leaf cuttings, take the greenest leaf for rooting. The cells of the green leaf contain more chlorophyll, which ensures the process of photosynthesis in the light. It is photosynthesis that provides the energy necessary for plant life and development. In the light areas of the leaf, chlorophyll is absent, if such areas prevail, then there is not enough energy for rooting and development of children. Such leaves also do not tolerate long-term transportation, shipment - they die on the road or later.

In my experience, for reproduction and rooting, it is better to cut off a leaf with a short petiole, rooting is faster, the petiole rots less often. You should not take a very large leaf, on the contrary, if the leaves are too large, then you can cut off the upper half of the mother leaf.

There is also the opinion of collectors that variegated leaves root better immediately in the ground. This makes sense: as soon as the roots begin to grow, the leaf will receive nutrition. It is necessary to prevent decay of the petiole before it has time to take root well (uniform soil moisture, good air permeability - due to the introduction of vermiculite or perlite). Sometimes, pre-treatment of the soil with a fungicide, for example, phytosporin or maxim, gives good results. It is also good if small pieces of charcoal are added to the soil. The substrate for the rooting of the leaves should be sufficiently nutritious and contain more nitrogen than the soil for adult flowering cultivars.

5. If, after rooting of the leaf, completely white or yellowish babies appear, it is necessary to ensure that green leaves appear. White babies without a mother sheet are not viable, they cannot be seated. In order for the baby to "turn green" faster, it is necessary to feed with urea (1 g per 1 liter of water) or use fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants containing more nitrogen. The lighting needs to be made less bright, and the place is chosen the warmest.

Difficult to breed varieties, it is better not to try to root in the hot season (June-July), the best time for this is spring.

6. After the kids are seated, another problem may arise: variegation almost or completely disappears. This happens for a combination of reasons:

  • the soil is too nutritious for this variety, contains a lot of nitrogen. You can transplant the violet into another soil or wait until the nitrogen is partially consumed. In the presence of incompletely rotted organic residues in the substrate, nitrogen will be constantly generated. You will have to wait a long time, such a substrate is not suitable for variegated leaves.
  • too high acidity of the substrate when the pH is below 5.5. 7-10 days before transplanting the baby of Saintpaulia into the ground, add dolomite flour - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of earthen mixture, you can use eggshells. This is necessary to reduce the acidity of the soil. Normal pH is around 6.
  • the room has a temperature of 25 ° C and higher for a long time, especially in low light. This can be the case when transplanting violets in autumn and winter, when the heating is on, and there is little natural light (and even in the heat in summer). You can try to fix the situation by rearranging the pots to a cooler place and arranging additional lighting for 10-12 hours. In general, variegated varieties of violets grow better and "keep the color" at temperatures within 18-21 ° C.

Summing up, we can say that variegated varieties of Saintpaulias need a nutritious soil, but somewhat different in composition than for conventional varieties, namely, containing less nitrogen. But more diffused light is needed, and they do not tolerate heat worse.

White areas of the leaves are particularly affected by direct sunlight (burns occur very quickly). In addition, the almost white leaves are very fragile, on the other hand. As observations show, ticks do not like them very much.

The author of the article is Rusinova T.A., Photos by Elena Beautiful

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