The Crown Of The Violet Dies

2023 Author: Gerld Thomson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 06:45

Sometimes you can observe the following picture: in the center of the rosette near the violet, the place from which new young leaves appear suddenly darkens, dries up, or turns black, young leaves do not develop or are strongly deformed. The growth point is destroyed. There may be several reasons for this.

1. Incorrect application of mineral fertilizers

Lack of boron leads to the accumulation of phenolic compounds in plant tissues, they poison it. The youngest leaves suffer most of all, they remain small, their edges curl down, then the leaves become brown and die off. The growth point dies, the stalk and leaf blade become fragile. Flowers wither, and young flower stalks with buds also die.

Boron deficiency can cause excessive potassium intake during feeding; in this case, a violation of the normal assimilation of calcium, magnesium, zinc is also observed. Lack of calcium also leads to oppression and death of the growth point. If fertilizer with too high a concentration of potassium was applied during watering, and at the same time it got to the point of growth, then there is no option - it will die.

If the plant is transplanted into a substrate with an excess of potassium, then symptoms of a high salt content will appear: the rosette turns dark green, the leaves become smaller, and growth slows down. If you pay attention to this in time, you can prevent the growth point from dying off, if it is good to spill the earthen lump with a warm weak (slightly pinkish) solution of potassium permanganate (at least 0.3 liters per plant), letting it drain from the pot, then put on dry pallet.

2. Attack and rapid reproduction of ticks

Young leaves in the center of the rosette deform, curl, become hard and brittle. With severe damage, the center of the rosette, the point of growth of the violet, can die off. But this is not the only sign, if the violet was struck by ticks, then on the leaves you can see traces of bites, the smallest light dots. The ticks themselves may not be visible due to their small size. In addition, severe tick infestation usually occurs in a hot and dry environment.

3. Damage to the central part of the socket with fungal diseases

In this case, young leaves do not become hard and brittle, but on the contrary, they become lethargic, pale or brownish. However, fertilizer poisoning and tick infestation can cause disease. So gray rot - fungi of the genus Botrytis (has many varieties), in order to infect a plant, it must settle at least on a small area of dead tissue, feeding on which, it infects neighboring healthy cells with poisonous secretions, then the next ones, thus the affected area is increasing and increasing. A gray putrid speck grows, becomes covered with a gray fluffy bloom - these are the mycelium of the fungus. They can live for a long time in the soil on plant debris, until they are brought from the street with earth, vegetables and fruits brought from the garden, with cut flowers, and there they, together with the dust, fall on violets. This also applies to other types of fungal infections.

Contributes to the development of the disease: water ingress into the center of the outlet, low temperature (below 18 degrees) in the room, drafts, the center of the outlet is closed from the flow of fresh air by thick raised leaves of middle rows or abundant bouquet blooms.

For treatment, it is necessary: remove all affected parts of the plant, spray the violet with a solution of any fungicide (Fundazol, Skor, Vectra, Chistotsvet, etc.). For prevention: spray all plants that are in the same room with the patient, remove leaves with signs of decay in a timely manner, control the number of ticks, prevent the spread of other pests, do not store vegetables and fruits in a room with a collection of violets, introduce a quarantine regime for all new specimens. Practice has shown that steaming the earthen mixture before planting does not give results in the fight against fungal infections, it is better to add the biological product Trichodermin to it or pour it with a solution of such drugs as Zaslon, Barrier. Before budding, spray violets to increase disease resistance with Zircon or Epin.

4. Incorrect transplant of violets

If the violet is planted incorrectly, it is too deep in the ground, then when watering the water will fall on the growth point, it will rot and die, then the whole plant may die. There are some tricks to avoid the death of transplanted plants. When planting children in an earthen substrate, make a hole, fill it with wet river sand washed repeatedly (the last 2-3 times with boiling water). Then make a hole already in the sand, lower the roots of the separated baby there and sprinkle them with the same almost sterile sand. The roots will then sprout through the sand, and will take food in the earthen soil, but with such a planting, even if deepening occurs, the water will simply flow down through the sand, while the children never die. This method is especially good when the pot is too big. If you need to transplant an adult violet or add earth to a pot, and the stem is already bare,had to remove the rotten leaves from the bottom row. It is necessary to separate all the "hemp" from the leaves with a fingernail, sprinkle the stem with crushed coal, make a small bandage of sphagnum moss dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or Maxim, only then add earth.

What to do if the growth point of a violet has died

If the growth point has died in the child planted from the leaf, then the prognosis is not comforting, the plant will most likely die.

If the growth point has died in an adult violet, then after all the amputations, treatment with drugs, you should try to root a healthy leaf, preferably the second row from the bottom, by cutting off 2/3 of its petiole. Several growth points may appear on the section remaining after removal of the apex. Wait until they grow up to 4 leaves, remove all but one, then it will grow. If you have experience, you can grow up your stepsons a little, break them off, prying them with your own fingernail, and then root them in sterile river sand, as they do when breeding chimera violets.

It may turn out that the disease has spread through the vascular system deep along the stem and no fungicide can help, the leaves in the center will continue to die off, turning black at the very beginning of the petiole, it is better to discard such a plant, boil the pot for 20 minutes. If the variety is very valuable, you can still try to root the leaf.