Table of contents:
- Wintering azaleas
- Azalea after flowering
- How to transplant an azalea
- Is it possible to ice azaleas
- What water to water azalea
- How to water an azalea
- Azalea soil
- Azalea after purchase
- Azalea pruning
- How to shape an azalea
- Azaleas - fertilizer, top dressing
- Fitosporin for Azalea
Question: I have a flower on the balcony, where the temperature is about 8-12 ° C. Isn't it not enough? Or adapt? At what temperature should the flower be removed from the balcony?
Answer: The minimum for azaleas is 5-6 ° C. Therefore, do not leave it on the balcony overnight now. Of course, spray on the balcony and in general at a temperature of about 8 grams. not necessary, since under such conditions the evaporation of moisture is very low. Water only when the top layer begins to dry out, keep in mind that if you bring it into a house where it is much warmer at night, the soil will dry out faster. Now, while you have an azalea on the balcony, beware of excess moisture.
Question: How to organize cool content in the apartment? Almost all my rooms are warm, there are no low winter temperatures, with the exception of a few days during the season, when it is 20-25 ° C outside. But do not wait for such days?
Azalea care - in the section of the Encyclopedia of indoor plants.
Answer: In general, azalea is not a plant for everyone, since it is a big problem to create a cool winter. Soon it will not be possible to keep it on the balcony, even glazed and well insulated, because at subzero temperatures, it will be only 10 degrees warmer, but still cold. It's another matter if you have a heated balcony or with plastic windows.
In the apartment, the only way out is to make a third frame on the windowsill. It can be just a sheet of glass, fixed in a frame at the edge of the window sill, about 60 cm high, it blocks the warm air from the battery. In addition, for the winter you glue and insulate only the first outer frame on the window, and leave the second unsealed and, if it is too warm on the windowsill, open it slightly. If the window sill is wide, then you can put a small old aquarium on it, with one wall removed. It is advisable in the fall - during the period of flower buds laying - to maintain the temperature at about 6-8 ° С, and then, after two months, by the time of flowering, increase to 12-15 ° С.
Question: There is a lot of humidity on the balcony due to condensation that appears on the glass due to the difference in external and internal temperatures. Is it necessary to increase the humidity (peat, expanded clay, moss)?
Answer: If you keep the azalea within 8-12 ° C, then it is enough to keep it on a tray with water and spray it a couple of times a week, if the temperature is slightly higher - about 15-17 ° C, then you can spray it once a day. At higher temperatures, you need to spray at least 2 times a day, remembering to close the buds and flowers.
Azalea after flowering
Q: Should an azalea shed all its leaves after flowering?
Answer: Azaleas have species with falling leaves after flowering, and there are species that do not lose leaves. If this is a “deciduous” species, then after flowering it is removed to a cool dark place until new shoots appear in spring. Those azaleas that do not lose leaves, too, are kept in a cool place, but in the light.
How to transplant an azalea
Question: How to properly transplant an adult azalea. And what if the lower part of the stems is bare and has lost the leaves?
Answer: An adult azalea should not be transplanted, but trans-shipped. Try not to disturb the root system, because on the tips of the roots there are mirokise mushrooms. Fungus mycelium filaments - hyphae help them to get scanty food from very poor soils. Use acidic soils for transplanting, you can take ready-made "Azalea" in the store. At the bottom of the pot, there must be a drainage 1/4 in height.
In older plants, the lower branches of the bush are bare. In this case, it is advisable to carry out anti-aging pruning. The best time for this is spring. Use pruning shears to trim each stem over the first pair of leaves. This operation helps to awaken the dormant kidneys. Over the summer, the cut bush will acquire its former splendor and spreading. Remember, the azalea's root system is not very deep, which means that the pot is needed a little deeper, how much wider than before.
Is it possible to ice azaleas
Q: Is it okay to ice azaleas?
Answer: The difference between the ambient temperature and the temperature of the irrigation water, for the normal development of the plant, should be no more than 8 degrees. A higher difference leads to stress and even death of the plant. It is more efficient to spread ice on trays on the windowsill between the pots, but it melts quickly.
What water to water azalea
Question: Is it possible to water azaleas with tap water, if not, what kind of water is needed?
Answer: Azaleas do not tolerate hard or chlorinated water. If you water the azaleas with ordinary tap water, then over time the soil becomes alkalized and an unplanned transplant will be required. Watering from the tap can only be used by those in whose area the water is very soft and not chlorinated, but disinfected with ozone. In other cases, you need to use rainwater filtered by household filters or at least well-settled for 3-4 days. Before watering, the water can be acidified with natural lemon juice or citric acid. The degree of acidification can be determined by taste - the water should not be sour, but have a slightly sour taste. On a liter watering can - a few drops of juice or 2 grains of citric acid per 1 liter of water.
How to water an azalea
Question: How often to water azaleas, and should blooming azaleas be watered more often?
Answer: Azaleas are very demanding on air and soil moisture. Watering frequency depends primarily on temperature, not dormant or flowering conditions. The main indicator is the condition of the soil. The substrate should be loose and the pot shallow so that you can easily determine the need for watering by placing your finger in the ground. It is by dropping it into the ground, and not touching it from above. The soil should be slightly damp all the time. Azaleas do not tolerate overdrying of the soil, as well as its boggy and dampness. From both, a plant can shed leaves and flowers. If the plant is overdried, then it is difficult to saturate the entire earthen lump with watering - water seeps between the walls of the pot. Therefore, it is better to water the plant by immersion in a basin of water. To make the soil more evenly wetted, periodically loosen the top layer of the earth.
Wet, wet or dry can be defined by everyone. The problem is that some people think that if it is wet inside and dry on top, then water and water as usual. As a result, the plant is flooded. If the soil inside the pot is still wet, and the upper 2-3 cm are dry, you need to water it, but it is better from a watering can so that the soil is moistened evenly and very sparingly in order to moisten exactly these 2-3 cm, and not the whole pot.
Another case is when there is still water in the pan and it seems that the soil has not dried out. In fact, it may already be completely dry or moisture remains only in the drainage layer. Therefore, as before, the surest way to determine the need for watering is to touch the ground with your finger, immersing it about 3 cm in it. Do not forget that the water for irrigation must be at least 18-20 ° C. Thus, the frequency of watering at different times of the year is different. For azaleas wintering on a 10-degree loggia, this can be once every two weeks, and on hot summer days, twice a day.
Question: What soil is suitable for azaleas?
Answer: To prepare a substrate for azaleas, use a special soil "Azalea", "Garden of Miracles" or "Terra Vita - living earth", with the addition of 1/4 part of fine gravel (very coarse sand - particle size 2-3 mm, in no way the case is not dusty). If you make up the soil mixture yourself, then it may contain heather (coniferous) soil, with the addition of 1/5 of the sand or without impurities. But remember that coniferous land is the poorest in nutrients, so regular feeding will be required. Suitable for growing azaleas and such a (more nutritious mixture) mixture: 1 part of coniferous soil, 1 part of leaf, 1 part of high peat, 1 part of fine gravel.
In any case, the soil should have an acidic pH of 4.5 to 5.5 (in extreme cases, about 6, but not higher). Azalea pots are not chosen deep, but wide - bowls, because the root system is superficial.
Azalea after purchase
Question: I just bought an azalea, now what should I do?
Answer: First of all, choose a place for the azalea - cool and protected from direct sunlight. How soon you need to replant depends on the condition of the plant. If it looks healthy it is better not to touch it for the first two weeks. Put in a place protected from direct sunlight, but not a dark place, humidify the air around the azalea, preventing water from getting on the flowers and buds. If the plant, in your opinion, is not well developed enough or looks sick, has yellowed or dry branches and leaves, if the roots protrude from the pot, then it is better to transplant it immediately.
Taking a plant out of an old pot, you need to examine the roots. You can "soak" an old pot in a bowl of water at room temperature or slightly warmer, but never in cold water for about half an hour. Even a cool azalea can be shocked when suddenly in cold water.
Now shake the loose earth from the roots. You don't need to pick anything up and try to remove the old soil. Peat usually adheres firmly to the fibrous roots of the azalea. But if there was rotting or damage to the roots, they will fall off themselves at the slightest rinsing in water.
The pot must be chosen in proportion to the root system (it is 1.5-2 cm larger in diameter. Too large a pot can lead to the fact that the azalea will grow poorly. If the old soil has not separated and the roots remained almost in the same volume as they were, then just take the pot one size larger.
It is better to do the transshipment several times than to plant immediately in a very spacious pot. Now put a layer of expanded clay into the prepared new pot, cover with a thin layer of soil, place the roots of the plant in the pot and cover the remaining soil. You don't need to compact the soil too much, it should breathe. After transplanting, the first week you need to water a little in order to only slightly moisten the soil. Because damaged roots can rot.
Q: How and when should azaleas be trimmed?
Answer: After the end of flowering, the azaleas are transplanted, and then cut off after two weeks. Cut the azalea so that the crown forms a cap. At the same time, all the shoots of the last year are shortened and the overgrowing ones that move forward, thin out densely growing shoots, and remove branches with weak growth.
Old strong specimens can be cut very strongly and planted in the ground in a shady place for the summer.
For the azalea to bloom profusely, pruning should be carried out immediately after the end of flowering, if you prune the plants later, then flower buds do not have time to form and the next flowering will be weak.
How to shape an azalea
Question: How to form an azalea from a cutting?
Answer: Usually azalea bush well and quickly during growth. Therefore, from a rooted cutting about 10-15 cm in height, the top is cut off or pinched. After the side shoots appear and reach about 3-4 cm in length, they are pinched again. In order for the azaleas to bloom next year, the last pruning or pinching is carried out no later than the beginning of June. But if the azalea is already large, has reached a height of 20-30 cm, then you do not need to pinch it, and pruning is only needed to regulate the density of the bush (when the branches grow inside the crown and interfere with each other), otherwise neither pruning nor pinching is needed, since we grow azaleas for the flowers. But when the azalea has faded, you need to pluck out the pedicels of the wilted flowers.
If the azalea's branches are elongated, bald (they have dropped leaves from the base), then it can be drastically cut in spring or at the end of winter (to the desired height) so that it grows new shoots, more numerous and with new foliage. After mass pruning of the bush, do not forget to slightly reduce watering, as you reduce the evaporating surface of the leaves, and the need for moisture is slightly reduced. If you have very light windows or have additional lighting, then cardinal pruning can be carried out in the fall, but keep in mind that after such a procedure the azalea will not bloom for a long time, first it will grow shoots, then it will form buds.
Azaleas - fertilizer, top dressing
Question: How and when to properly feed azaleas?
Answer: You can use universal fertilizers for flowering plants, for example, "Uniflor-Buton" or "Kemira-Lux". For good flowering of plants, the dose of nitrogen in these fertilizers is much less, and the amount of potassium and phosphorus is increased. Of course, it is best to use special fertilizers for azaleas, because they do not contain chlorine. After the end of flowering, until the end of August, you can feed with fertilizers such as "Uniflor-micro", where the dose of nitrogen increases and there are enough iron and magnesium chelates to prevent chlorosis of the leaves.
Question: how to apply ferovit for azaleas?
Answer: Ferovit (manufacturer Nest M) is an iron chelate, it is used for spraying on a leaf, if the azalea has signs of chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves between the veins. Dilute 1.5 ml per 1 liter of water and spray the plant with the resulting solution, covering the buds and flowers from moisture. The preparations "Against yellowing of leaves" from Agricola and Micro-Fe (from Orton) have a similar effect. The result is usually noticeable after 2-3 treatments. Leaves that have already turned yellow will not regain their green color, but young leaves should grow pure green.
Fitosporin for Azalea
Question: how to apply phytosporin for azaleas so that they do not rot and hurt?
Answer: Fitosporin is a preparation containing a culture of bacteria Bacillus subtilis useful for plants. These bacteria suppress pathogenic (pathogenic) fungi and bacteria, but they "work" only in a weakly acidic environment, at a soil pH of 5.5-6), if the azalea is planted in a more acidic substrate, then phytosporin may be useless (its activity is suppressed by acidophiles) … Therefore, it makes sense to check the soil (or be guided by the soil indicators declared by the manufacturers).
If the azalea is planted in acidic soil, try to avoid irregularities in watering, i.e. set yourself a certain interval when the soil in the pot dries out enough, but does not dry out completely (ideally, it should dry no more than three days), if it dries longer, there is a risk of flooding and decay. Therefore, with a cold snap before watering, make sure the soil is dry enough, periodically loosen the soil in the pot.
If the azalea is planted in slightly acidic soil, you can periodically use phytosporin watering, at the rate of 10 drops per glass of water, if phytosporin is in a bottle (liquid). If phytosporin is in powder, then dilute 2 g per 1 l of water (10 g per 5 l), let stand for 2 hours to activate bacteria.
Important: dilute phytosporin only with boiled water, it does not tolerate chlorine!
- Other questions how to care for an azalea
- Propagation of azaleas by cuttings