Gardenia - Care, Reproduction, Flowering - In Questions And Answers

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Gardenia - Care, Reproduction, Flowering - In Questions And Answers
Gardenia - Care, Reproduction, Flowering - In Questions And Answers
Video: Gardenia - Care, Reproduction, Flowering - In Questions And Answers
Video: How To Make Gardenia Plant Produce More Buds And Blooms All Year Round 2023, February
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Why gardenia does not bloom

gardenia flower
gardenia flower

Q: Since the gardenia was given to me (two years ago), it has never bloomed. Several times I picked up the buds and dropped them, the pot is on the table in the room.

Natali:

  • First, place it on a windowsill.
  • Secondly, try to water it not just with settled water, but with boiled water, even better passed through a household filter.
  • Thirdly, it is most likely hot in summer, of course you cannot lower the temperature in summer, but then you need to maximize the humidity of the air - put it on a wide pan with wet pebbles or expanded clay and at the same time continue to spray (with insufficient humidity, they also turn yellow or dry around the edges leaves). But in any case, do not overmoisten the soil.

Additional artificial lighting can be arranged, but it also needs to be fed from April to August. Try to apply fertilizers, preferably containing iron, for flowering indoor plants (phosphorus), only take a dose 2 times less than recommended, and feed every 2 weeks, you can also at the beginning of September. She dropped the buds either from a lack of light, or from too high a temperature, perhaps from both together.

Maroussia: For gardenia to bloom, you need an air temperature of about 25 degrees. If the gardenia with buds remains in the winter, it can bloom if it is warm and light. And if there are no such conditions, then the buds will reach until spring, and at least partially bloom.

Caring for Gardenia - in the section of the Encyclopedia of Houseplants.

Alina Viktorovna: Why gardenia does not bloom, options for reasons:

  1. Little light and heat. The books say that if it is not warm enough during the day and too warm at night, then the buds are not formed or are discarded. So or not, we cannot say, since all ours bloom with a whistle, despite the heat.
  2. Overfed with nitrogen (while the tops are climbing).
  3. Wrong time of year - some gardenias bloom in winter or spring and should be warm.
  4. Underfed with fertilizers - when active growth is fed, for example, bloom-buster with chelated microelements, and sprayed with …
  5. Gardenia buds can also shed due to changing conditions.

Guest_Sonata: I firmly believe that gardenia does not bloom because:

  • likes light, but doesn't like heat
  • buds are formed at temperatures below 18-16 degrees
  • loves water, but not waterlogging
  • I often pour water into the pan so that water does not flow into the pot, this helps not to flood the plant
  • gardenia loves acidified soil: once or twice a month I water it with acidified water (squeeze a little lemon juice into the water for irrigation)

Gardenia - reproduction

gardenia breeding
gardenia breeding

Question: The gardenia has grown very much on my balcony and I am very happy about that. But I want to multiply it, how to do it?

Tanyushka: The stalk should be cut about 10 cm long, always from a healthy branch. Remove a few lower leaves.

Cuttings can be rooted in water or in a substrate (a mixture of peat with sand or one sand (vermiculite, perlite)). To ensure high humidity, the cuttings are covered with a jar or plastic bag. The optimum substrate temperature is 25-27 ° C. Be sure to daily ventilate and regularly sprinkle the leaves with water.

After rooting, the cuttings can be planted in pots after about a month. To do this, prepare the substrate: peat, coniferous soil and sand.

Stimulants can be used for better rooting.

  • Option 1: soak the cuttings in a zircon solution (1 ml per 1 liter of water) for a day.
  • Option 2: Dip the end of the cutting into root powder.

Natali: It is better to leave the greenhouse ajar so that the cuttings do not rot and the ground does not moldy. Those. do not ventilate 2-3 times a day, but put a stick (pencil, pebble) under the cap from a can or bottle so that there is air access. If the handle is under the bag, then holes must be made in it. And the best time for rooting is still the beginning of summer.

Question: I want to divide a large gardenia bush into two parts, but I do not know if it is possible, because everywhere they write only about propagation by cuttings or seeds.

Natali: Theoretically, this can be done, but I'm afraid that if you want to get two good bushes at once, you can lose the whole plant. Gardenia by cuttings - it does not take root easily, with soil heating and with phytohormones, and when the bush is divided, the root system will be seriously disturbed, the roots will either be torn off or cut off.

The plants will hurt, perhaps, the branches will partially die off and the leaves will be lost, and it is not known how it will take root. Best of all, if you want to get not a small bush right away, then cut 6-7 cuttings from your bush and root. Your plant will soon grow, and plant the cuttings all in one pot. But it is better to use root formation stimulants, for example, heteroauxin or root, you can even use epin.

Q: Last year one of my gardenias gave me a box of seeds. I want to try growing a gardenia from a seed. When to plant?

Abrakadabra: I have just grown gardenias. They germinated for almost a month, somewhere in the third week I dug them up and saw a seed with a root, mentally scolded myself and quickly, quickly buried everything. A week after the excavation, I saw small stalks covered with a cap (skin). A week has passed since birth, and the cotyledons are not yet visible, and they stand with a hat, I myself am not doing anything to remove the peel, and in general I am not pulling them now.

The seeds were "Russian vegetable garden", out of two packs of 5 seeds each (that is, only 10 seeds) only 2 germinated, I understood that for more I should not count on the seeds in anything I did not soak, so I buried somewhere on a half centimeter, under the film and they stood in a cool place, far from the battery and with a slight temperature difference (cooler at night).

Abrakadabra: in the continuation of the topic, it seems there is progress, at least the cotyledons slowly began to appear from under the hat! In general, this spring (even still in winter) I also decided to buy seeds and see what will come of it while the results are satisfying, 50 percent of the pack usually sprout, sometimes less, sometimes more, I think, a lot depends on the quality of the seeds, and their seeds, obtained from their plants, as practice shows, sprout 100%.

I sowed it in the ground for cypress trees - it was disinfected, it was so light and the pH approached the most.

Jakonya: I also finally have a gardenia. I sowed it in mid-January, in the ground with sand. A month and a half rose. Germination rate is so-so. I left five bags in five pots. Shoots in three out of five pots and not to say that much. One, two sprouts. Now I think it was necessary to pour everything into one, and then plant it. Small pots are easier to dry.

Gardenia turns yellow

gardenia turns yellow
gardenia turns yellow
gardenia turns yellow
gardenia turns yellow

Question: My gardenia does not completely die, but turns yellow.

Natali: Perhaps your water is hard water, boiling does not soften it enough. The soil became saline, the acidity shifted to the alkaline side, some nutrients (potassium, boron, iron and others) ceased to be absorbed (they require a certain pH of the environment), and the plant began to show a deficiency of a whole bunch of trace elements. It would be more correct to transplant it into fresh soil, to control the acidity of the soil. It does not interfere with checking the roots, perhaps there are rotten ones. Do not feed the plant itself into the ground, but apply potash top dressing on the leaf.

barsuchok: The characteristic yellowness of the leaves, when the veins remain green, is chlorosis. Iron chelate will help here. Spraying over the leaf (you can water a little) and dry completely in the dark and warm.

Kasandra: Gardenia can turn yellow if planted in the wrong soil or with improper watering, you need to find a middle ground - not flood, but also not dry out. Also, spider mites can be to blame for yellowing.

Freya: Leaves may turn yellow if the gardenia is sprayed at low temperatures or in a draft after spraying.

How to water a gardenia

Question: How to properly water and fertilize your gardenia?

Someone: Gardenias have increased requirements for the presence of iron in the soil, and in a form that is convenient for them to assimilate. You can't just pour iron vitriol. Iron chelate can be found in flower shops, which is exactly what they need. You can spray, you can pour it into the ground.

It is better not to overdo it with acidifying water. If transplanted into the ground for gardenias or azaleas, that is, into sour, then she does not need to acidify anything for another two months. And then a couple of drops per liter of water once a month, not more often. I myself received such recommendations in due time from experienced comrades whom I trust. But at the expense of yellowness, this is a natural phenomenon with chlorosis. Gardenias place high demands on the presence of iron in the soil, and in a form that is convenient for them to assimilate. You can't just pour iron vitriol. Iron chelate can be found in flower shops, which is exactly what they need. You can spray, you can pour it into the ground.

Irusya: It is necessary to add a little citric acid to the water for irrigation. BUT, as you know, in acidic soils, many trace elements become inaccessible to plants, and gardenia is very demanding. Therefore, I use iron-based fertilizers. A good result is given by watering + "Uniflor-Bud".

Helen: I water my gardenia once a month with acidified water, 1 drop of lemon juice per liter of water. I think that fertilizers for azaleas should suit her, mine sits in the ground for azaleas, feels great, I water it with Pocon fertilizers.

Irya: Fertilizers: from March to August, 2-3 times a month they are fed with mineral (not containing calcium, lime and chlorine) and organic fertilizers in low concentration and in small portions. Particularly sensitive to iron and magnesium deficiencies (both sulfates). Water with a solution of microelements 2-3 times a year.

It normally assimilates nutrients only when the pH of the soil is not higher than 5. Therefore, at least once a month, water with a weak solution of citric acid or lemon juice (several crystals or drops per 1 liter of water). 0.5 g of ferrous sulfate must be added to the water. You can acidify the soil with water infused with peat.

Drizzle with warm, soft water. Cold and hard, leaves fall. The soil should always be slightly damp.

Gardenia or Tabernemontana

Question: How to distinguish a gardenia from a tabernemontana? I bought a rooted cutting from my grandmother in the spring. Grandma importantly asserted that it was a tabernemontana, and I have a strong suspicion that the gardenia is jasmine …

Kasandra: For tabernemontana, it is characteristic that the lateral shoots overtake the main one in growth, due to which it usually looks like a bush. Shoots and leaves contain white milky sap, from which glue and rubber are obtained in the plant's homeland.

Gardenia grows as a tree and does not emit milky sap when cutting the shoots. Their leaves are really very similar. But the flowers of tabernemontana are like bells with corrugated petals, and in gardenia they are like a rose.

barsuchok: 100% can be determined from the buds. In gardenia, they are plump, round in shape, and in tabernemontana, they are elongated, as if with a "pip" at the tip.

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