Table of contents:
- General care for the hippeastrum
- Planting hippeastrum
- Top dressing of hippeastrum
- Watering hippeastrum
- Choosing an onion in a store
- Questions about flowering hippeastrum
- The growing season of hippeastrum
- The resting period of the hippeastrum
- The difference between hippeastrum and amaryllis
- stages of development
- hippeastrum landing
- feeding hippeastrum
- watering hippeastrum
- reproduction of hippeastrum
- selection of bulbs in the store
- Flowering hippeastrum
- Vegetation of the hippeastrum
- Dormant period
- The difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum
General care for the hippeastrum
Bloom. The flowering stage starts from the moment the flower arrow appears until the buds wither. The flowering period is three weeks on average. For two weeks the flower arrow grows, for 1-2 days the buds bloom (all can bloom at once, they can take turns) and for about a week the flowers are kept in dissolution. The duration of the flowering period depends on the temperature conditions (the higher the temperature, the faster the peduncle grows, the buds bloom faster, the buds wither faster), the number of peduncles (when the bulb blooms with several peduncles, the flowering period can be up to 1.5 months), from varietal features (terry varieties fade 1-2 days earlier than non-terry varieties).
Flowering usually once a year (in autumn or winter, or early spring), and with good care, again in summer. The timing largely depends on the care (when the bulb was sent to rest) and also on varietal characteristics (there are varieties that bloom at a certain time).
The growing season or growth period. During this period, the hippeastrum recovers after flowering, increases the leaves and volume of the bulb, and lays flower stalks for future flowering. This period is very important, future flowering depends on it. Lasts on average about 8-9 months, and sometimes longer. The timing depends on the recovery of the bulb. Longer, heavily thinned bulbs and bulbs after illness (rot, red burn) are restored.
Rest period. It starts from the moment when the bulb is harvested in a dark, cool place, and lasts an average of 3 months. Duration depends on the previous season and storage conditions. Healthy, well-fed bulbs are sent to rest.
Caring for Amaryllis - in the section of the Encyclopedia of Houseplants.
Caring for Hippeastrum - in the section of the Encyclopedia of Houseplants.
Question: When can the hippeastrum be transplanted? How often?
It is advisable to replant once a year, hippeastrum are gluttonous and the supply of nutrients in the soil is consumed quickly. You can transplant either before going to rest, or after a period of rest, i.e. before flowering. In some cases, for example, the purchased hippeastrum has faded, can be transplanted after flowering. It is undesirable to transplant during the flowering period.
Question: How to plant a bulb correctly? Do I need to deepen?
Hippeastrum is planted so that a third of the bulb is raised above the ground.
Question: When transplanting, do you need to remove dry scales?
In a healthy bulb, only those scales that are easily removed can be removed. Brown scales that are close to the bulb and cannot be removed do not need to be removed.
Question: In what soil should you plant?
The soil should be light in composition, with good water and air permeability, rich in organic matter. Weakly acidic pH - 5.6-6. You can use purchased primer or mix it yourself. The choice of purchased soils is large, there are special soils for bulbous.
It is better to add sand or vermiculite to the purchased soil for greater looseness. If you want to make the soil yourself, then the composition is as follows: clay-soddy soil, leaf, humus, peat and sand (2: 1: 1: 1: 1)
Question: Is it possible to grow hippeastrum outdoors?
For the summer you can. In the garden, they grow very well and stock up on strength for future flowering. Just do not forget about pests (there are more of them in the garden than in indoor conditions), rodents and the fact that the weather is changeable. During the period of frost, heavy rains, the bulbs must be covered. You need to dig up the bulbs before the first autumn frosts.
Top dressing of hippeastrum
Question: How to feed the hippeastrum correctly?
The composition of the feeding depends on the stage of development. The most important element is potassium. Fertilize about once every two weeks.
During flowering - emphasis on phosphorus-potassium and low nitrogen content.
At the beginning of the growing season, the emphasis is on nitrogen-potassium, in the middle of nitrogen-phosphorus in equal proportions, potassium is slightly more.
A month before the rest period, feeding is stopped.
A few rules: you cannot fertilize on dry soil, after transplanting, the first top dressing is not earlier than 1.5-2 months, carefully read the instructions and dilute according to the instructions, avoid overdose.
Question: What is better to feed with organic matter or mineral fertilizers?
Hippeastrum is good for both organic and mineral. Ideally, it's best to alternate between them. There are also special fertilizers for bulbous plants.
Question: How to properly water the hippeastrum?
Flowering period. Until the arrow has grown by 10-15 cm, watering as it dries (i.e. the top layer should dry well between waterings). As soon as the peduncle begins to open, watering needs to be increased, but no swamp. Hippeastrum do not like the bay.
The growing season. Watering as the top layer dries.
Rest period. Watering once every 1.5 months is not very plentiful. Watering should be careful, in no case should water get on the bulb, otherwise the upper scales may rot.
Question: What are the ways of reproduction of hippeastrum?
Seeds, children, dividing the bulb.
Seed reproduction of hippeastrum
As a rule, it is used in breeding for the development of new varieties and hybrids. During seed propagation of the variety, 100% compliance with the parental form of seedlings is not guaranteed. Self-pollination does not give a 100% guarantee that the same variety will turn out. There are species that cannot self-pollinate. This breeding method is the most laborious and time consuming. The bulb grown from seeds blooms with good care for the 5-6th year.
The pollination process is simple: the stigma of the pistil of a flower of one variety of hippeastrum is pollinated with pollen from other varieties, pollinated several times from the moment the blades of the stigma of the pistil diverge until they completely diverge.
Only healthy bulbs are selected for pollination.
It takes about 1.5-2 months to ripen the seeds. The seeds can be harvested when the seed pod begins to open. Not all seeds are suitable for planting, there are "dummies" (that is, there is no embryo inside), so the seeds are sorted out before planting. The largest, plump seeds are selected (the embryo is felt to the touch). The sorted seeds can be sown in the ground, lightly sprinkled with earth, or put in some water (with activated carbon) and wait for germination, as soon as the white root hatches, planted in the ground (with a white root down). The distance between the seeds when planting is 1.5-2 cm.
Light, warmth and proper watering are essential for seed germination and seedling growth. The soil should be slightly moist, the temperature is 20-23 degrees. If these conditions are not met, the seeds may not sprout or rot. The germination rate of fresh seeds is almost 100%.
Seedlings should be planted as they grow. Don't forget to fertilize.
Spring seedlings are stronger than autumn ones, so seed reproduction is best done in spring. In addition, autumn seedlings should be supplemented in winter.
Reproduction of hippeastrum by children
This method allows you to preserve all varietal characteristics, but the multiplication factor is low. Children are formed irregularly. The education of children largely depends on the variety, for example, sibisters La Paz, Giraffe easily give children, but terry varieties are reluctant.
The babies are separated from the mother's bulb during transplantation. When separating, the baby should be at least 2 cm, with good roots. With good care, babies bloom in the 4th year.
Reproduction of the hippeastrum by dividing the bulb
This method is rarely used among amateur florists. First, because you need to cut a healthy onion. Secondly, there is a risk of losing the bulb and not getting children (there is a high probability of introducing infection into the wound). But the breeding rate is high and the resulting children retain their varietal characteristics.
For reproduction, adult, healthy bulbs are selected. Dried bulbs that have been in storage for a long time, as well as bulbs during the flowering period and immediately after flowering, are not suitable for division.
Selected bulbs are washed in clean running water and cleaned of old outer scales. The roots and the bottom, if it is too high, are cut with a sterile knife (the bottom cannot be completely cut off). Remove 1 / 3-1 / 4 from the top of the onion. Then the onion is cut vertically into 8-16 parts (segments). The segment width is 1–2 cm. The number of segments depends on the size of the bulb, the larger the bulb, the more segments. Then each segment is cut into 3-5 divisions, consisting of two scales, fastened at the base with a piece of the bottom. Depending on the size of the uterine bulb, you can get 50-60 or more divisions from one bulb. Before planting, the plots are etched in a fungicide (in Maxim, in vitaros or in a foundation).
Delenki are planted in perlite, sawdust, river sand or in substrates prepared from these components with the addition of peat. The thickness of the substrate layer should be at least 10-12 cm. Heavy substrates in terms of texture are not suitable for planting. Before planting, the substrate is steamed or spilled over the entire thickness of its layer with fungicides to destroy the harmful microflora in it.
The distance between the divisions during planting is small - 1200 - 1500 divisions per 1 m squared. They are planted in boxes or on racks with bottom heating. Landing is carried out to a depth of no more than 1/3 of the height of the cut. Deeper planting leads to decay of the divisions, a decrease in reproductive productivity, retards the growth and development of the resulting daughter bulbs.
Landing can also be carried out in segments, without dividing them into divisions. But the productivity of reproduction, despite the large number of daughter bulbs formed by one segment, is lower, since the number of planting units obtained from one bulb is much less than when the bulb is divided into divisions. Planting in segments is used only when it is necessary to divide small bulbs with a small amount of scales.
The formation of daughter bulbs occurs a month after planting the divisions at the place of attachment of the scales to the bottom. Each delenka forms 1-2, and individual delenki up to 6, daughter bulbs. Three months after planting the delenok, the newly formed daughter bulbs have an independent root system and 2-3 leaves. At this age, the plants are transplanted. Reproduction success by the paired scale method depends on the temperature and humidity of the substrate.
The temperature of the substrate during the formation of daughter bulbs is maintained in the range of 22-24 ° C, air temperature - 1-2 ° C lower. The lower temperature, as well as its sharp drops during the formation of daughter bulbs, lead to a sharp decrease in breeding productivity.
The substrate must be constantly moist. Waterlogging and drying out of the substrate reduces the productivity of reproduction. Air humidity is maintained within 75-80%. High humidity and stagnation of air, decrease and sharp changes in temperature contribute to the massive development of stagonosporosis.
Top dressing is carried out after the plants have an independent root system and leaf apparatus. Plants that are grown on substrates that do not contain nutrients (perlite, sawdust, river sand) are especially in need of feeding. Top dressing is carried out with liquid organic or mineral fertilizers twice a month.
Care during the formation of daughter bulbs and in the initial period of plant life consists in systematic watering, dressing, loosening the soil and protecting plants from diseases and pests.
Choosing an onion in a store
Question: How to choose the right bulb in the store? What should you pay attention to?
During the season of forcing (autumn or spring), hippeastrum can be bought either in bulk (without soil in a plastic bag, on which the variety and supplier are written), or in a pot.
When buying, inspect the bulb carefully. The neck, bottom and the bulb itself should be strong, dense. The upper scales should be dry and brown in color. There should be no seals, darkening, redness, rot.
When buying a bulb in a pot, pay attention to the roots (they can be seen through the drainage hole (the roots should be white)), the bulb to the touch (should be strong), the upper scales should be dry brown (soft, wet - rot), on the leaves (if any) and the bulb should not be red.
When buying an onion at a discounted price, try to find out the reason for the discount. Prices are reduced for faded bulbs at the end of the planting season. Sometimes at reduced prices they sell filled onions with rot. And it is also worth noting that re-grading is very common in stores.
Questions about flowering hippeastrum
Question: How long does hippeastrum bloom?
On average, the flowering period takes 3 weeks (from the moment the peduncle appears to the wilting of the buds). The flowering time is extended when the bulb blooms with several peduncles (after all, the peduncles do not always bloom at the same time, it happens one after the other).
The temperature also affects the flowering time. At a temperature of deg. 25 the peduncle grows quickly, the bud opens quickly, and the bud quickly fades. Optimum temperature deg. 18-20. There is a little trick: as soon as the bud opens, the hippeastrum can be transferred to a cooler place (degree 16), then the flowering will last longer.
Question: Hippeastrum grows leaves, does not want to bloom. How to achieve flowering?
First of all, you need to think about the conditions in which hippeastrum is contained.
1. The bulb may be too small. Usually bulbs less than 6 cm are children, or bulbs that have spent a lot of energy on flowering and are too weak after flowering. These bulbs bloom early, you need to increase the volume, i.e. you need fertilizing (nitrogen-potassium) and light, you do not need to arrange a rest period.
2. For flowering, it is very important that the bulb regains its strength during the growth period and puts a flower arrow (usually an arrow is laid after every 4th leaf).
3. The bulb lacks nutrients. Think about how long ago you transplanted your bulb. It is advisable to replant even an adult bulb every year, since during the growth period, the hippeastrum eats up all the nutrients in the soil. In addition to transplanting, the bulb needs proper feeding to restore strength. During flowering - phosphorus-potassium and little nitrogen content, after flowering nitrogen-potassium and little phosphorus content.
4. Lack of light. Think about your illumination. Hippeastrum are photophilous and can be safely placed on a sunny south window.
With such illumination during the growth period (spring-summer), they will get stronger and lay a flower arrow, or maybe more than one. A bulb that has received insufficient light, for example, has stood on the northern windowsill all spring and summer, or, in a place where the sun's rays rarely fall, may not bloom.
5. In what capacity the hippeastrum is planted. The pot should not be very spacious. The distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot is no more than 3 cm.
6. Do not forget about the rest period. After a vigorous growth period, the bulb needs to rest in a dark, cool place for two to three months.
Question: Bulb 3 cm, why doesn't it bloom?
This is a baby, she is too small to bloom.
Question: A third peduncle has appeared, I'm worried about the bulb. Will she have enough strength?
A well-fed bulb blooms calmly with three peduncles. If you are worried about the onion, then, as soon as the bud opens, the peduncle can be cut and put into water.
Question: On the third arrow, the flowers were not as large as on the first two. Why?
I didn't have enough strength. Such a peduncle, as soon as the buds open, it is better to cut and put in water.
Question: How many flowers can there be on one peduncle?
From 2 to 6. The amount depends on the age of the bulb and on the varietal characteristics.
Question: Why does the hippeastrum have a peduncle more than 80 cm?
Or there is not enough light. The more light, the shorter the peduncle.
Question: A peduncle has appeared, the leaves of the bulb are 60 cm. Do I need to cut the leaves?
You do not need to trim the leaves. This is stress, you will need strength to heal the wound (cut site) and new leaves. Why waste her extra energy? All her strength is now going to flowering.
Question: Is it possible to get flowering by a certain date? I want it to bloom for the New Year.
Yes, you can. The calculation is as follows: on average, the rest period lasts 2.5 months (10 weeks), from the moment the flower arrow appears until the buds open, it takes about 3 weeks. In total, it turns out 13 weeks (a little over 3 months). So, in order to get bloom for the New Year, you need to send the bulb to rest in early October.
Question: Is it realistic to achieve flowering on northern windows?
Hippeastrum are photophilous and feel more comfortable on the southern, western, eastern windows. You can make it bloom on the north window, northwest, northeast window. But the hippeastrum grows the bulb and recovers poorly after flowering, spends a lot of energy on flowering (the bulb is noticeably losing weight), the leaves are long and not so much, the peduncles are very long and elongated.
Question: The peduncle rotates on its axis. Is this normal?
It's okay, he's reaching for the light.
Question: The buds have wilted. When do you need to remove the peduncle?
In order not to weaken the peduncle bulb after the buds have wilted, you need to cut it off.
Question: Is it true that it is very difficult to achieve the next flowering from the Dutch?
It is a myth. Flowering does not depend on the "Dutch", but on the conditions of detention.
The growing season of hippeastrum
Question: After flowering, a bulb with voids. Is this normal?
She spent her energy on flowering, and therefore voids were formed. There is nothing wrong, the bulb needs to be restored. Over time, the voids will close. Try to water more carefully so that the water does not get into the "voids".
Question: The bulb after abundant flowering (there were 3 peduncles) has lost a lot of weight. How can you help her recover? And will it recover to its original size?
Under indoor conditions, the bulb can recover to its original size, it all depends on the care. To recover, she needs: a sufficient amount of light, proper feeding, watering. Bulbs that have bloomed with three peduncles are the slowest to recover. Such bulbs have spent a lot of energy on flowering and can safely miss the next flowering.
Question: Hippeastrum last year bloomed with three arrows. Refuses to bloom this year. Care according to the rules (light, feeding, rest). The bulb is strong, has grown 10 leaves during the growing season, and has retired by itself. Why didn't it bloom?
It is possible that hippeastrum missed flowering. I spent a lot of energy on the previous flowering. And during the growing season, he only managed to grow a bulb. Continue leaving, it will bloom next year.
Question: Hippeastrum has blossomed, the arrow has dried up, and there are no leaves? Now he has what: vegetation or immediately rest?
Vegetation. There are varieties that bloom in a leafless state. Leaves appear within a month.
If a thriving bulb has recently been purchased, it may not have roots. She spent all her energy on flowering, now she is growing roots, then leaves will appear.
Question: Hippeastrum has faded. The first leaf appeared and almost immediately turned yellow, a little later two more leaves appeared, and they turned yellow and dried. The bulb is strong, dense, no rot. Transplanted, there were no roots during transplantation. Watering is neat. Stands on the east window. What with her?
Most likely, the problem is the lack of roots. Healthy leaves will appear as soon as the bulb has roots. It is possible to stimulate the formation of roots with "root" or "heterosexin".
Question: The purchased hippeastrum has faded, when it is purchased it is planted in peat. I want to transplant. Can you transplant after flowering?
It is possible and even necessary. When transplanting, it is imperative to inspect the roots, they are often poured in the store, and rot forms on the roots and bulb. Old peat must be removed from the roots, and etched in Maxim (or another fungicide) before planting.
Question: At the hippeastrum, too long leaves are overwhelmed, what kind of support should you come up with?
In the store, you can find various supports, like those shown in the photo. If you connect them together, or use them separately, you get a convenient support for the leaves. Supports can be plastic or bamboo. You can use a woolen thread to tie the leaves to the support.
Question: How to properly cut the peduncle after flowering?
Cut so that about 10 cm from the peduncle remains from the neck of the bulb. After the remainder of the peduncle dries up, it can be easily twisted. By the remainder of the peduncle, you can see whether the bulb is healthy or not. In a healthy bulb, the peduncle is dry, in a diseased bulb, the peduncle is slimy, soft, with redness.
Question: Leaves appeared from the ground, what are they?
These are the leaves from the baby.
Question: The leaves have a red tint. What is this red burn?
If the reddening is uniform, on all leaves and begins at the base of the leaves, then this is a varietal feature and suggests that the onion blooms in red or with a predominance of red and dark red. Cultivars in which foliage turns purple: Red Lion, Benfica, Lima, Papilio Butterfly, Rapido, La Paz.
If there are sudden red streaks on the leaves or red spots, then the cause is rot or "red burn".
The resting period of the hippeastrum
Question: The leaves of the hippeastrum began to turn yellow and wither. Maybe he's going to retire?
Look at the onion. Have you grown up? grew leaves during the growing season? If so, then the bulb is going to rest. Place in a cool, dark place and reduce watering. The bulb will take all the nutrients from the leaves.
Question: I bought hippeastrum in early November, it faded. For 4 months of growth, I grew 7 leaves. Do I need to send him to rest (now March)?
Early retirement, the bulb did not have time to recover. Ship in early fall.
Question: How to send an onion to rest?
Remove the onion in a dark, cool place. You do not need to cut the leaves, the bulb will take nutrients from them. After a while, the leaves will turn yellow and wilted and can be easily removed.
Question: Why send to rest?
I have hippeastrum blooming once a year without a dormant period.
And if you do not want to expel, you can not arrange a dormant period. In this case, it is difficult to predict flowering.
Question: How to determine whether the hippeastrum bulb has woken up?
The bulb woke up as soon as the peduncle or leaves appeared.
Question: When to "wake up" the onion? Or wait until she wakes up?
Already more than 2 months at rest. If it is cool, then it is enough to bring it to a warmer, bright place and the effect of distillation will work. If you do nothing, she will wake up when she considers it necessary.
Question: Hippeastrum retired three months ago. Now there is no flower arrow, no leaves, the bulb has lost weight. What to do?
The bulb gave all its strength to the previous flowering and did not recover. Take out the bulb, transplant it into fresh soil, let it grow and restore strength. Such a bulb is unlikely to thrive.
Question: Hippeastrum was sent to rest (in a dark cool place). I did not have time to dry the leaves, as new ones appeared. What to do with him?
Option one, the bulb is rested and ready to bloom. You can hold it for a little (a week or two) in a dark place (wait for the peduncle) or immediately put it on the windowsill.
Option two, they retired early. The bulb did not have time to regain strength and continues to grow. Reach out, let the bulb recover.
Question: Do I need to send the baby hippeastrum to rest?
Not. Children do not need to arrange a rest period.
The difference between hippeastrum and amaryllis
Both plants belong to the same family Amaryllidaceae.
At first, both hippeastrum and amaryllis belonged to the genus Amaryllis. Subsequently, taxonomy, due to significant differences in the structure of plants, resulted in two different genera. The botanical name amaryllis went to the species amaryllis belladonna, the rest got the name hippeastrum.
|Number of species||Approximately 50-70 species, although some sources mention up to 85 species||one species Amaryllis Belladonna|
|Origin||subtropics and tropics of America||South Africa|
|Chromosome number||X = 11. In most cases, it is incompatible with other genera of the Amaryllis family.||X = 11. It crosses freely with other genera of the Amaryllis family, including Krinum, Nerine, Brunswigia.|
|Evergreen or deciduous||Depends on the species, most species are deciduous, with a pronounced dormant period, but there are species without a pronounced dormant period (evergreen), for example, Hippeastrum Papilio.||With a pronounced dormant period, during the dormant period, the leaves are shed. A dormant period is necessary for the development of a flower bud.|
|Flowering period||Usually blooms once a year. The flowering period depends on the forcing: early forcing - autumn flowering, late - flowering in winter and spring. Some hippeastrum flowers bloom twice a year, usually re-blooming in summer.||The end of summer, autumn. Flowering once a year.|
|Peduncle (main difference)||Hollow, cylindrical, up to 90 cm high, the color of the peduncle is usually green, but it can be green with crimson, with gray or brown shades||Not hollow, up to 96 cm high, with a purple tint.|
|Number of flowers per peduncle||Usually from 2 to 6, but some species have up to 15 flowers with little or no odor. The number of flowers depends on the species and variety, for example, in the species wild-growing Hippeastrum fosteri, up to 15 flowers develop on one peduncle, in the small-flowered Rapido up to 9, in the small-flowered Jaguar up to 8, in the terry medium-flowered Alfresco up to 8.||6 to 12 fragrant flowers.|
|Flower color||Red, pink, orange, yellow, green, cream, white; one-color or two-color; with stripes, streaked, speckled.||Shades of pink from deep pink-red to almost white.|
|Flower shape||Varied: terry, long-tubular, orchid-like, similar in shape to Leopoldii and Reginae, etc.||funnel-shaped|
|Flower size||Depends on the variety and type: from 5 cm to 22 cm||from 9 to 13 cm|
|Perianth petals||6 similar or different in shape and size (depending on the type)||6 similar in shape and size|
|Bracts (protective cover of inflorescence)||2||2|
|Perianth tube||Depending on the species, it can be very long up to 15 cm or very short 2-4 cm.||short|
|Leaves||Depending on the species, the leaves are green, glossy or dull, silky or hard, long, belt-like. Appear before or simultaneously with the flower arrow. Leaves length up to 90 cm, width 3.5-5 cm.||The leaves are narrow, bright green, glossy. The shape is grooved. Leaf length up to 60 cm, width up to 3.5 cm. Appear after flowering (i.e. bloom in a leafless state).|
|Bulb, shape||symmetrical. Depending on the type, the shape can be different, round, round-conical or slightly elongated.||pear-shaped|
|Bulb, diameter (mature, flowering)||7 cm - more than 10 cm. The size depends on the variety: in most wild species, tubular and small-flowered varieties, the bulbs are small, in large-flowered and double varieties, the bulbs are large
in an adult plant capable of flowering. The size of the bulb depends on the cultivar (small-flowered plants have a smaller adult bulb than large-flowered ones)
|more than 12 cm.|
|Scales||white, resemble onion scales in structure, the scales break easily (effortlessly)||grayish, have pubescence on the inside (the pubescence looks like cotton wool or a spider web), it is difficult to break the scales|
|Seeds||In the seed capsule there are about 30-45 flat, fly-winged, black, disc-shaped seeds. The embryo is covered with a black protective cloth.||The seed capsule contains about 20 thick, bulbous, light pomegranate seeds.|
|Seed germination (germination)||Usually about 2 weeks, sometimes a little more.||About 56 days.|
|Feature of the education of children||Usually babies appear closer to the drying scales.||An interesting feature in adult bulbs, babies appear between the scales in the middle of the bulb, and several growth points are obtained.|
|Growing features||It grows and blooms well indoors. Typically, the growing season is in the spring - summer, the dormant period - in the fall, early winter, flowering period - late autumn, winter, spring.||In indoor conditions, it grows and blooms difficult, since its biological cycle is disrupted. The plant is native to Africa and blooms when it is spring in Africa, during the rainy season. After flowering, it grows, and rests during drought and high temperatures. In our conditions, African spring falls in autumn, so it blooms here (in Russia) in autumn. During the growth period (in our conditions, winter-spring), he does not have enough light. The plant is very light-requiring. Best grown in a garden in direct sunlight. The temperature should not be lower than 10 degrees, so in the fall they need to be dug up and removed more in a warm, lighted place.|
The article used the experience of the members of the forum: Veta, Severina, Elena Beautiful, Olga Gr, Faust, ITALIA, Lucien, Apsara, Vesna, Simona, Romashka. Thanks for the experience and advice.