Table of contents:
- Dieffenbachia - reproduction
- Dieffenbachia after pruning
- Dieffenbachia leaves dry
- Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow
- What kind of pot you need dieffenbachia
- What kind of land does Dieffenbachia need?
- Dieffenbachia stretched out
- Dieffenbachia bloom
Dieffenbachia - reproduction
Question: Everyone's cuttings of dieffenbachia root easily in water, but my leaves are shedding and rots?
Natali: In order for Dieffenbachia to safely take root in water and not rot (loss of leaves is quite acceptable), you need to take clean water, not boiled, but preferably filtered, add 4-5 tablets of activated carbon to half a liter, do not keep a jar of water in the light (can be wrapped in a napkin) and periodically change the water to fresh. You can also put on rooting in a weak fertilizer solution. Any fertilizer for ornamental deciduous plants, taken in a dose 4 times less than recommended for root dressing.
If rotting (the bottom of the cutting becomes slimy and darkens) has begun, then you can cut off the spoiled part of the stem to healthy tissue, rinse the cutting in running water, put it in fresh water, add a few drops of phytosporin. After 2-3 days, replace the water with fresh water, add phytosporin again, but already 2 times less. If phytosporin is not available, add ground cinnamon on the tip of a knife.
If dieffenbachia is rooting in the ground, then it does not need to be covered with a bag or jar, but the cutting should be sprayed 2 times a day. And the soil should be kept only slightly moist. Of course, the soil must be sterilized (soak for about 3 minutes in the microwave), and the cuttings must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal.
Care for Dieffenbachia - in the section of the Encyclopedia of Houseplants.
Kroky: A possible cause of barrel decay in water is if the cutoff touches the bottom of the can. Try to attach it somehow so that the slice hangs in the water. You can also sprinkle the slices with charcoal. Leaves, by the way, have the right to turn yellow and fall off in the process, do not be afraid. And cuttings from the trunk need 2-3 rings each.
aie13: I root exclusively in water: a 3-liter jar of boiled water + 5 tablets of activated carbon, I wrap the jar with a black garbage bag (so that it is dark in the jar). The crown in the cut state is usually about a meter long, I dry the cut for 2-3 hours and in a jar, it was very correctly noted earlier that the cut should not touch the bottom - otherwise rotting is inevitable in 50%. After 3-4 weeks, small roots appear - now into the ground. Inevitably I lose a few lower leaves.
Question: I'm trying to root a dieffenbachia stalk, but nothing comes out!
Reproduction of Dieffenbachia - in the section Popular indoor plants
polin: When rooting dieffenbachia cuttings, I noticed an interesting tendency - if the cutting is apical, then the roots appear longer than if the cutting is cut from the middle of the trunk (without the top). Maybe with two tops, the rooting process is naturally delayed?
Kroky: Indeed, the higher up the trunk, the longer the roots grow. At root cuts, roots can appear in a week. Therefore, it makes little sense to compare the rate of appearance of roots in different people. Even thin, recently grown shoots will also have roots faster than older thick ones. But in the latter, large leaves will go faster then.
Lelya: My stump (it has dropped all of its leaves) has been sitting in the water for about 20 days, and only now a tubercle and a hint of a new leaf have appeared.
Elena: I rooted Dieffenbachia twice. The first time in the ground under the bank, the second - in water with activated carbon. The second method is much easier, for me dieffenbachia took root in two weeks.
Dieffenbachia after pruning
Question: The trunk of my dieffenbachia began to bare. It's not very pretty. I want to put a second one in this pot. Tell me if I cut off the top of the head and root it in water, what will happen to the mother plant. How will dieffenbachia grow further without the crown?
polin: Without the crown, it will shoot side shoots. That's all. I cut my healthy one like for firewood every 2 years.
Alla Viktorovna: I also cut mine in half, the top took root in the water, and the stump gave a new shoot from the upper bud in the area of the "bridge" on the trunk. Now I have two dieffenbachias!
Dieffenbachia leaves dry
Question: The other day I bought Dieffenbachia, and when I brought it home, I found several black spots on the leaves. They grow in size.
Natali: Your Dieffenbachia leaves do not turn yellow, but dry up, acquiring a dark, blackish color. This is a sign of waterlogging - it was systematically poured in the store. It is necessary not only to transplant it into new soil, but also to observe the irrigation regime. And also apply fungicides for root rot, ask the store for drugs that help against late blight, you can pour a solution of phytosporin.
If the leaves of dieffenbachia dry and become light, like parchment, the reason is dryness or too dry (and hot) air. Dieffenbachia loves when the humidity is around 50-60%. If spraying 2-3 times a day does not help, you need to purchase a humidifier or cover the batteries with damp terry towels
Question: Why do the ends of the leaves dry in dieffenbachia?
Natali: In such cases, it is customary to sin immediately on dry indoor air. Indeed, if the room is very hot and dry, the ends of the leaves of Dieffenbachia can dry out, but if the plant is not near the heating system, then dry air is not always the cause, or not the only reason for dry tips and edges of the leaves. More often the fault is overdrying of an earthen coma, lack of nutrition, especially in large specimens that have not been transplanted for several years, as well as pests - mites or thrips, which are quite difficult to notice on variegated leaves.
Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow
Question: Dieffenbachia's leaves began to turn yellow sharply, visual inspection did not show pests, what could be the reason?
Alexander: If the leaves turn yellow, this is an overflow. And the roots start to rot. It is necessary to ventilate them, loosen the ground and not water.
Ksu: Check the ground at a depth of about 2-2.5 cm deep in the pot. If it has not been watered for several days, and the ground is wet (not just wet, but wet) - overflow. It is better to pull it out of the pot quickly and check the roots. Probably rotting. Cut the rotten ones, sprinkle the slices with charcoal (or activated charcoal), although I dump all that remains of the root system in the charcoal for disinfection. You can even hold it in a fungicide solution before "dumping", after cutting. Plant in slightly damp ground and do not water for several days, it is better to spray. Then water a little, but more often.
Natali: If yellowing leaves with lemon color (no browning, rather pale color), a possible cause is a spider mite. It is very difficult to notice it when it is in small quantities. A characteristic feature is yellowing without definite boundaries - blurred fuzzy spots. Try looking for pests on the back of the still green leaves closest to the yellowed ones. Symptoms - see photo of ticks.
What kind of pot you need dieffenbachia
Question: Does Dieffenbachia like a spacious pot or a tight one?
Kroky: It grows so fast, the spacious pot gets cramped very quickly. Choose a spacious one - the free space of the earth can be about two to three times more than the root ball. Remember that Dieffenbachia is a powerful plant and the pot must be resilient. But if you immediately take a very large pot (there are 4-5 times more space than the root ball), then the risk of waterlogging increases. Therefore, in a large pot, be careful with watering, or make a higher layer of drainage.
What kind of land does Dieffenbachia need?
Question: what kind of land does Dieffenbachia need?
Natali: The soil needs porous and nutritious, with a good amount of humus. Therefore, store-bought soils in their pure form are not suitable (they consist of fibrous peat seasoned with mineral fertilizers). Therefore, it is better to compose the soil from individual components:
- 3 parts of leaf humus, 1 part of sod land, 1 part of small pebbles or zeolite granules, 1 part of transferred (compost soil)
- 2 parts of garden land from under vegetables, under which organic matter was introduced (tomatoes, cucumbers), 1 part of sod land, 1 part of coconut substrate (briquettes or chips).
Read about where to get sod or leafy land: About soil and plant transplantation, as well as Soil for plants
It is very important to sterilize the soil before transplanting Dieffenbachia, especially if you bring it from the garden. If the amount of soil is small, you can steam it in the oven on a baking sheet. If the volume is large (a bucket or more), then you can spill it with a very large amount of boiling water. I do this: I put a little less than a bucket of earth in an old pillowcase, put it in a 15 liter bucket and fill it with boiling water (it takes about 6-7 liters). I leave it for 30-40 minutes, take it out and hang it so that the water is glass for about a day. Then I put it on the film and dry it. Boiling water does not completely sterilize the soil (boiling is needed for this), but it kills pests, larvae and eggs.
After planting dieffenbachia, I water it several times with humic preparations, or I use Baikal EM-1.
Dieffenbachia stretched out
Question: My dieffenbachia has an elongated trunk and something very long petioles, with what could it be connected? I can't wait to cut it, only now it's winter …
Gray: They're stretched out because she clearly lacks lighting! Now is not the best time of the year for indoor plants. It's a bit dark. Either move it closer to the window, or arrange additional lighting. Hang up a regular fluorescent lamp and light up in the evening. For example, I do this and illuminate many plants until midnight. If you rearrange it closer to the window, then pay attention to the radiators. Dieffenbachia do not like dry air, like all other plants. So, it is necessary to humidify the air in the room to increase the humidity! Don't cut it now! Wait until spring, when all plants begin their growing season. A transplant is also desirable in the spring. Don't stress the plant.
Question: What to do, the trunk is exposed?
Natali: Dieffenbachia is characterized by a gradual exposure of the trunk from below, but this is normal if it grows well and gives new leaves. However, if the new leaves are smaller than the old ones, and the petioles are too long, then the plant clearly does not have enough light.
Shlomo: Yellowing of the lower leaves may be normal if the plant is large and there are many healthy leaves, but it may be the result of a draft or lack of light. It is possible to highlight dieffenbachia, it develops well even with a complete replacement of sunlight with artificial light, and has a positive attitude towards lengthening daylight hours.
Question: Dieffenbachia grew just fine, then began to bloom. I heard that the flowers need to be removed?
polin: If Dieffenbachia starts to bloom and you want to see the bloom, then it just needs increased feeding. My bush bloomed. All "oppression" was expressed in one sheet of smaller than usual size and nothing more. You just need a mandatory weekly feeding with mineral and organic fertilizers during the flowering period and after it for at least a month. Then you can switch to the usual feeding regime.
If we proceed from the fact that when we need to support the foliage, then we feed those with more nitrogen, i.e. as usual "for decorative deciduous". But since it still blooms, I did one top dressing "for decorative flowering", where there is more potassium and phosphorus.