Table of contents:
- Yucca or dracaena
- How to care for a yucca
- The yucca has dropped leaves
- The yucca has a void in the trunk
- Yucca - reproduction
- How to save a yucca
- The tips of the leaves of the yucca dry out
- Yucca - leaves turn yellow
- How to water a yucca
- Yucca from the store
Yucca or dracaena
Very often they ask how to distinguish yucca from dracaena? There are species of dracaena that look very similar to yucca, for example, Dracaena aletrimis Dracaena aletriformis or the species Dracaena fragrant (massagena) Dracaena Massangeana (not variegated). The differences are:
- yucca has small denticles along the edge of the leaf: a noticeable roughness along the edge of the leaf, if you draw from the tip to the base
- yucca leaves are tougher, denser, on young tops they stick up straight up
- the edges of the leaves in yucca are usually straight, in dracaena they are often with slight waviness (the leaves themselves are softer)
- in yucca, the top of the leaf ends in a prickly thorn
- yucca has reddish roots, sometimes of a rather intense shade, dracaena always has white roots
- with the same crown size, the trunk of a yucca is always thicker than that of a dracaena
How to care for a yucca
Question: Tell me how to care for a yucca, different sites advise different things: will its trunk grow, or only leaves?
Natali: Yucca loves sunlight, for me personally she stands on the southern windowsill, which is not shaded by trees. In winter, there is always not enough light and the south window is just right. But in the summer, sometimes you may need to shade in the hottest hours - at noon on a sunny day. In the center of the room, the yucca should not be placed at all, if it is large and grows in a tub or large pot on the floor, then it should be placed by the window. It must be watered so that the earth is not wet, the top layer of the earth must necessarily dry out. Water should not remain on the pallet, but it should be sprayed very well 2 times a day, but only in heat, or if there is a battery nearby. At other times, you do not need to spray at all.
Yucca is too susceptible to overflow - it rots easily, so drainage at the bottom of the pot and make it high enough, in a layer 2 fingers thick.
Caring for Yucca at home - in the section of the Encyclopedia of Houseplants.
irina-bahus: Mine is on the south window, I can't stand it on the balcony. Do not overdo it with watering, and everything will be fine. A friend gave me a cutting about 10 cm from the rotted trunk of her yucca. For three years my "stalk" has become more than a meter, the trunk has begun to grow stiff. It has to be handled twice a year. Yes, and in winter, when there is central heating, every day I spray all the flowers, and the yucca too. I don’t spray in the summer, but mine is once a week - it’s in the kitchen.
Regarding the growth rate of yucca: it will grow from a small cuttings, but the trunk does not grow in height soon. On my yucca, the trunk was formed after two years, now it is 5 years old, the trunk is a little more than 20 cm, and the yucca itself is 2 meters.
barsuchok: the trunk grows very slowly in height, the foliage grows faster.
Question: I transplanted Yucca after the overflow about 2-2.5 weeks ago. It stands unchanged, she has a leaflet inside her, so every morning I go up and see if he has grown or not, if he has grown, then the crisis has passed. And another question - is it important which room, south, west?
irina-bahus: Actually, it's not about the room, but about the amount of light. There should be more light on the southern one, but if a house is obstructing, a tree or something else, it may turn out the other way around. My yucca is on the southern windowsill, it seems to be not complaining, but someone from the members of the forum (Oksana) has a luxurious yucca in the entrance, where there is absolutely nothing with light. Maybe the fluorescent lights are on all the time, and that's fine. I usually determine that there is very little light, when the plant either begins to sharply stretch towards the light, stretch unnaturally, or completely stops growing.
Gray: From personal experience, there was exactly such a story, and with my yucca I can say the following:
- 2-3 cm depth for transplant is normal, I do not advise deeper - the trunk will rot!
- Very careful watering! It is better to underfill than overflow!
- No drafts!
- Optimal temperature conditions (within the capabilities and actual conditions of detention).
- Do not tear off, do not cut off the yellowed sheets, let them fall off.
- Since the planting is not deep, support it with 2-3 bamboo sticks, or with plastic only non-iron metal tends to oxidize, ruin the soil!
- The most important lighting! It is desirable in winter from 16 to 22 hours backlighting!
- If it is not near the battery, it is better not to spray yet! From spring to September, it is better to take it to the balcony, but remove it from the direct sun. During this period, I do not spray at all!
Yucca in the Encyclopedia
The yucca has dropped leaves
Question: In my yucca, the leaves do not stick up, as they should, but hang down a little (like in dracaena) I spray, water after the earth is completely dry!
Natali: If your yucca is large, that is, the leaves are long (more than 20 cm), if it feels good, and there are no signs of ill health, then such drooping of the leaves is normal. They droop as if from their own weight. However, if short leaves droop (up to 15-20 cm), especially if they are sluggish, then this is due to excess moisture in the ground. It just seems to you that you are not pouring, but try to dig in the ground and touch the inside - how humid it is. In rare cases, in the heat, the leaves may wilt from drying. Therefore, you only need to rely on the dryness or moisture of the soil inside the pot.
Question: A week after buying from yucca, the leaves began to dry, then the leaves wilted and dry out. For some reason, a small scion just fell off, although it was green. What am I doing wrong?
Natali: Most likely, your yucca suffered from systematic waterlogging. The leaves of the yucca are dense, so they look like drying out from overflow, but this is a deceptive impression. Transplant, examine the roots, if you do not have drainage in the pot, do it. Only replant before watering when the ground is dry. Firstly, it is easier to scatter the old earthen lump this way, and secondly, to check if the plant has been flooded - it is normal, the soil should be dry before the next watering. Make the drainage high - about three fingers high, so better protect yourself from overflow. Do not tamp the new soil too much - it will run out itself. If the lighting is good, then the yucca can be sprayed less often, after a day, after two. Yuccas suffer much more from lack of sun in winter than from dry air!
Irina-gorsh: I advise you to feel the trunk carefully. The big problem is barrel softening, alarm signal. Look deeper into the soil, maybe only the top layer is dry, and the bottom one may not have time to dry. I have a yucca in a small pot, and I will water it once a week and even then poorly, yucca often suffer from overflow.
sweety: When my yucca leaves began to wilt, I changed the watering regime - I practically did not water at all! Spilled phytosporin-m (diluted pasta). But it was previously transplanted into fresh soil for yucca. She cleaned the roots, but did not rinse them - rinsed them in a bucket with diluted phytosporin. The drainage was made 10 cm (I have a high pot). After the transplant, I did not water it for a week.
Question: At first, the yucca leaves were juicy green and stretched upward, but now they are lethargic and pale. But recently the baby fell off. Rotted the shoot right on the trunk. What can be done?
Chubby: Dry the earthen lump! Pull the flower out of the pot for newspapers, and change its "diaper" if it is an overflow, and I think that it is exactly it.
Elena: An additional reason is the lack of light - if there is little light, the overflow occurs faster, more often, since with a lack of light, the processes of photosynthesis and growth slow down, metabolism is inhibited and the need for moisture decreases, and you continue to water as if it was "working" on light.
The yucca has a void in the trunk
Question: When transplanting a yucca (due to waterlogged soil), I found a large void on the trunk under the bark. A month or more has passed, and now the lower leaves turn yellow and at the same time new healthy leaves appear.
Irina-gorsh: If the new leaves grow healthy, then it does not fold. If the conditions for the yucca are normal (in short: it is cool in winter, more light, including sunshine and infrequent watering), everything should be fine. For the future, if flooded, do not grab the transplant immediately, especially in winter. It is enough, depending on the root system, to take a stick selected in width (the thinner the better) and pierce it to the base of the pot in many places. The earth will dry out quickly and will "breathe" in a day. Another thing is if the root system has already begun to bend, and external signs of something "wrong" with the plant have appeared, then when transplanting, remove the "dead" roots without touching the "live" ones and plant them in another land.
Question: I felt the trunk, well, it seems to be solid near the ground, but in those places where the kidneys died, it is not that soft, it seems to be empty.
Berry: If the trunk is hard (even with an air gap) - not all is lost, the main thing is that there is no rot, that it is not soft. You need to provide it with good light and observe.
Natali: The bark of a yucca becomes looser or dries up from changes in moisture, in this case the soil. If the soil is always evenly moist, then there will never be swelling, the bark adheres tightly to the core of the stem. In one case, the bark will swell, if the yucca is heavily flooded, rot under it, the plant dies. In another case, the bark begins to flake off, but the soil has time to dry out, rot does not form or dries up, the trunk develops, but the void remains. There is always an alternative - to cut off the tops and root, grow a new plant.
Yucca - reproduction
Question: My yucca is dying from waterlogged soil, I'm trying to propagate: I rooted two offspring in a pot (without roots), covered it with polyethylene. I do not know if it is possible to make cuttings from the trunk and also root it?
Anna: Just put the stem (cut off the top of the head) in a jar of water. Do not pour a lot of water so that it covers the trunk by 1 cm no more so that it does not rot, and periodically add water (it evaporates). After a week, the yucca will have roots. Wait for the small lateral roots about 3-4 cm to grow and plant in the ground. The main thing is not to overfill in the future. But in winter, for the rooting of yucca, additional lighting is needed!
Alice: Yucca reproduces vegetatively quite easily, but only if it is light and warm, and the biorhythms of the plant are on the rise. Try not to just prune the yucca in the fall or winter, the best time to breed is from late January to June. It is also possible in July, if there is no heat. If the temperature is above 27C, it is also not good, the cutting force will not have enough strength to absorb moisture with rapid evaporation by the leaves. Therefore, if you cut off a large branch of yucca for rooting, part of the leaves must be cut off, leaving 4-5 maximum.
How to save a yucca
Question: I poured the yucca and it began to rot. How can you save what's left?
Veta: If the roots have rotted, then just try to re-root the top.
Freya: In any case, take it out of the pot immediately! If at least something is left of the roots - cut off all the rotten, live residues - sprinkle with charcoal, dry, plant in a suitable soil, drain well. The soil for planting is dry, do not water immediately. On the second day, water (not much) with water with heteroauxin or zircon. Cover with a bag (only fix the bag along the stem, not the pot!) If the roots have all rotted - try to root the top, as mentioned above.
Question: Yucca roll to the side strongly, you have to prop up with a stick. I thought the roots were rotten, but I don't know. Moreover, at her trunk, the bark does not fit tightly. But at the same time, new leaves appear normally.
irina-bahus: If you don't like tilting at all, try tying to a stick and gradually straightening. But first look at the barrel. It must be solid. It is necessary to water the yucca really carefully, in no case do not pour it. Better to let it stand in dryness. It is not necessary to spray it. But if the ground is wet, you can remove it from the pot, dry it a little and put it back. At the same time, you will see the roots.
The tips of the leaves of the yucca dry out
Question: The ends of the leaves of the yucca are drying out, this is because of a lack of moisture, right?
svPooPs: Dry tips - lack of moisture only if hotter than 26 degrees. Then you can and even need to spray once a day. But I spray mine much less often and she does not complain. The main thing is not to fill it. Water once every 1.5-2 weeks so that the earth must dry out. Dry leaves below are normal. But dry ends happen, from overfeeding with fertilizers, if the soil has become an alkaline reaction (then hard water and fertilizers), and if the leaves hang over the battery, from which the hot air comes.
Question: For a year and a half, my yucca has grown by only 1-2 leaves. And they write that it is a fast-growing plant, and for some it gives up to 2-3 new leaves a week! What am I doing wrong?
IrinaP: One of the reasons is the small pot. After buying a plant, have a good habit not to wait for a long time with a transplant, maximum two weeks. Store soil is not the best soil for yucca, peat is very hygroscopic. The systematic waterlogging of the yucca for the time being passes unnoticed, the plant simply fights with all its might so that the roots do not rot, for the growth of an insufficiently powerful healthy root mass. Make up your soil: Take garden soil (oven roasted), add coconut substrate and zeolite for looseness, about a fifth of the pot. Yucca needs to be watered once every 1-1.5 weeks (approximately).
Ferret: If the yucca is sitting in a small pot, it needs to be watered every day, but the ground must have time to dry out. It is watered in large pots once a week. But with a transplant, you do not need to pull, after purchase - transplant in a week! And feed after the transplant in 2-3 weeks. But don't overestimate the dose.
irina-bahus: It is generally believed that yucca loves loose pots. In any case, its root system is very powerful. But another reason for the slow growth of yucca is the lack of light. This is a southern plant, in addition to feeding from the pot, it needs good light.
Yucca - leaves turn yellow
Question: Yucca leaves turn yellow - at first, the leaves began to lose color, they became very light. They do not dry, do not get wet - nothing, they grow as usual, only very light in the socket. The place has not changed - it has been standing on the northern window, without sun exposure for the fifth year already. And only now it is brightening.
Natali: There are two options:
- The first is a lack of light. At first, the yucca was small, and there was enough lighting for the whole bush. For five years, she has grown, stretched in height, and she began to lack lighting. The best way to confirm this is to rearrange it to a bright place, the leaves darken and grow larger in just a week.
- The second - if the leaves brighten from the inside of the outlet, and with yellowness, it is possible that it is poured - dig in the ground and try to determine the moisture content of the soil inside the pot, it should be dry there by the next watering.
Leah: And my yucca turned yellow in the shade, it stood in the far corner of the room, and as soon as it was transferred to the windowsill, the lightening stopped, and it turned green again. I have a south side, however, the balcony is glazed, but it is still very light, and all summer it stands on the balcony with a slight shade, grows and pleases.
Question: Young leaves of yucca turn yellow, first one, then dries up, and then the whole process. It stands at me 2 meters from the window (in the summer on the glazed balcony), I water it as it dries (in the summer - every other day). I rarely fertilize, about once a month (Pocon is a greenery generator, it seems). A pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, a trunk height of about a meter. All the young shoots that came with the purchase have already fallen off. There was one left on a large trunk and one on a small one. But the new little ones don't come out. When transplanting in the spring, I found that the trunk was deeply buried in the ground (7-8 cm), I dug it out a little. Now she bends over and does not hold well in the pot. Maybe this is the case and it needs to be buried back?
Freya: The southeast is good, but 2 meters from the window is a lot, a rare plant will feel good there without additional illumination, but yucca is clearly not one of them - it is not a "lower floor" plant that is content with that it falls on. As a representative of rather arid regions, it is used to growing in direct sunlight. First, move it closer to the window, if not to the windowsill, then as close as possible! Young shoots, she can elementary "not pull out" due to lack of nutrition, caused, of course, by lack of light.
Natali: Yucca should be on the south window. It does not have enough light, which is why the leaves turn yellow, but most likely you have more than one reason, but two - also constant waterlogging. The trunk can be buried in the ground, but to exclude decay, dig it out of the ground, and so that the trunk does not tilt or fall, tie a support. One important point: Yucca on healthy, powerful roots will never topple and fall. If it tends, the roots are weak, they were filled, they are not enough. You can temporarily press the trunk with a couple of stones, but the main thing is to create conditions for the growth of new roots, which the trunk itself will hold.
How to water a yucca
Question: Yucca leaves turn light green and fall down, wither. Stands on the floor by the balcony on the south side. I spray 3-4 times a week, rarely water, because I'm afraid to pour it again, about 1 time in 2 weeks. Recently fed up. The trunk is solid.
Natali: There is a catastrophic lack of light, if you do not move it to a more sunny place, it will die like a freak. Watering may be too infrequent.
irina-bahus: And once every two weeks watering - is it not enough? It is better to be guided not by the number of days, but by the state of the earth. I water when the ground on top dries up (well, at least once a week it turns out). You can also measure the acidity of the soil - suddenly sour, sometimes the lightening of the leaves suggests that you need to spray with iron chelate. And one more thing: there is usually a draft under the balcony door, maybe put it on the windowsill for now?
Natali: To resolve the dispute - to water a lot or a little, I will say right away that it depends primarily on the density, porosity and moisture capacity of the soil, as well as on whether there is a lot of free soil or roots in the pot. We need to adapt to our microclimate in the apartment and the ability of “our” soil to absorb and evaporate water. Even if two plants were planted in the ground from the same package, the watering would still be different. Someone has a larger pot or drainage holes, someone has a higher temperature in the room, more sheet mass (evaporating surface), etc.
If the roots take up more space in the pot than the free land, then you need to water more abundantly than if the roots took up only a small space of the pot. And of course, in plants that do not tolerate overflow, the soil should be checked not from above, but in the depths of the pot. Just to the depth of a finger - i.e. about 10-12 cm, if wet - do not water! Since this is technically difficult to do, I propose to determine by the weight of the pot - just remember how much it weighs approximately when the ground inside is dry.
And you also need to distinguish between dying leaves:
- if they just drooped - most likely, the matter is in waterlogging,
- if they curl along like a tube, then either there is not enough moisture or light.
Yucca can easily tolerate fairly dry air, but will ache if she lacks light. Never spare the light for her - feel free to put additional lamps in the fall and winter, and in the summer on the south window. With a decrease in lighting in the fall, the need for watering is also sharply reduced. Everything is so subtly connected that experience does not come with months, but with years. Forget fertilizing altogether if you're new to floriculture, just replant every year. There are as many holes at the bottom of the pot as possible, drainage is at least 2 cm.Measuring acidity will most likely give you nothing, since yucca is not as demanding on it as, for example, gardenia or azalea, and the soil for palm trees is quite suitable in composition. But it is not necessary to allow the formation of salt deposits on the soil surface.
Yucca from the store
Question: 2 months ago they gave me a yucca, I was afraid to replant it in winter. The leaves began to turn yellow, and not the lower ones, but as necessary. Turn yellow, then dry up. Recently transplanted. The root system is good, not flooded, not overdried, only the roots were woven: he was cramped. What with her?
Elena: Yucca is very light-requiring and the leaves can turn yellow due to lack of light. Therefore, after the purchase, the yucca must be assigned to a permanent place on a sunny windowsill, but the first two weeks should be given for adaptation: do not transplant and shade from the hot sun at noon. When the yucca adapts to your microclimate (combination of temperature, air humidity, lighting), you need to transfer (without braking the roots) into a larger pot, always with drainage at the bottom. And again leave alone for a month and a half, only then you can start feeding. All this time, you can take a closer look at the plant, you can bring pests and diseases from the store. If there are any stains, sprinkle with phytosporin several times. While on adaptation, you can spray with stimulants and growth regulators.
irina-bahus: It could be an adaptation. Young yucca leaves are always more light green than old ones, they then turn dark green. Now, when there is little light, it is better to put it on the windowsill, in the most illuminated place. And water less often, and it is still good to loosen the earth so that the roots have air. And, of course, two days is not a period for conclusions, one must observe. By the way, those sheets that have begun to turn yellow will still dry out, so you may not react so sharply to this.