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Ksantorreev family. Homeland South Africa. There are about 150 species in nature. This is a fairly common succulent plant, unpretentious and easy to multiply. Haworthia grow on sandy and rocky slopes, under the light cover of taller plants from the scorching rays of the hot sun. These plants have virtually no stem, with the exception of Reinwardt's Haworthia. The leaves form a dense rosette. Long peduncles, from 40 cm long and above, have no decorative value and it is better to cut them off so as not to deplete the plant.
Haworthia pearl Haworthia margaritifera - fleshy leaves about 7-8 cm long and up to 3 cm wide, collected in a basal rosette, covered with pearl-white warts on both sides that do not form clear rows. During flowering, a long peduncle with a racemose inflorescence is ejected from the axils of the upper leaves. The flowers are small, nondescript greenish.
Haworthia striped Haworthia fasciata - very similar to the pearl Haworthia, but its leaves are longer and more pointed at the end. The warts are somewhat smaller, but denser, and cover the underside of the leaves brighter than the top, forming slender rows.
Haworthia Reinwardt Haworthia reinwardtii - fleshy leaves, triangular elongated, form an elongated rosette up to 15-20 cm, so the stem is first erect, then lodging. On the outer side of the triangular leaf there are numerous light-colored warts forming transverse or longitudinal rows. The racemose inflorescence is very long, up to 1 m, with inconspicuous yellowish-green flowers.
Haworthia limifolia Haworthia limifolia - low rare rosettes of fleshy leaves, 4-5 cm long, 2-3 cm wide, on the back of the leaf numerous warts merge into a continuous line, from which the leaf appears to be embossed-striped. Long inflorescence with white small flowers.
Haworthia checkerboard Haworthia tesselata - very thick and slightly numerical triangular leaves, finely toothed along the edge, forming small rosettes. The reverse side of the leaf is warty, and the upper has a pattern of light longitudinal and transverse stripes, similar to a thin mesh.
There are many other species in culture besides those listed here. They, for the most part, have warty growths on the leaves (tubercles, bulges), in some species they are so small and not expressive that the leaf seems just rough to the touch. Some types of haworthia are often confused, for example, Haworthia margaritifera (pearl) and Haworthia reinwardtii (Reinwardt), but haworthia pearl has the largest warts of all haworthia, some shiny and convex. In addition, in determining the species, the shape of the plant itself matters - the pearl-bearing haworthia forms a wide rosette, the leaves sit loosely, their tips stick out in all directions like hedgehogs. In haworthia Reinwardt - the leaves sit tightly, the plant forms not a rosette, but long shoots, each leaf almost to the middle covers the one above.If there is no collection need to determine the type of haworthia, then this is not important, because the conditions of detention are still the same for all representatives of this genus.
Care for Hawortia
Temperature: Moderate in summer, in winter, Haworthia is kept at a temperature of 10-12 ° C, with dry content (i.e. watering about once a month). Winter minimum 5 ° C. In summer, it is better to keep it outdoors (on the balcony, veranda).
Lighting: Haworthia loves a bright place, with some direct sunlight, on a south window, shading is needed at noon. In winter, the brightest place, full sunlight, no shading.
Watering: Moderate in spring and summer, the soil should dry out well before the next watering. Since autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter, watering is limited, but depending on the temperature.
Fertilizer: From late spring to mid-summer, they are fed with a special fertilizer for cacti and other succulents once a month.
Air humidity: Haworthia are resistant to dry air, do not need spraying, but in winter they suffer if the room is too warm and dry, in some species the tips of the leaves begin to dry out.
Transfer: Annually in the spring. Soil - 1 part of sod land, 1 part of leaf, 1 part of coarse sand and brick chips. The container should be wide, but not deep, with good drainage to the bottom.
Reproduction: Daughter rosettes, which can be separated both from the roots during transplantation and cut from the mother plant. It can be propagated with a leaf, which, after cutting, is dried for 3 days, and then planted in loose soil or sand, and watered no earlier than three to four weeks, when young roots are formed.
Problems of growing haworthia
The leaves are elongated, the rosette is loose and elongated - a lack of light, Haworthia grow well on the east and west windows.
The leaves are elongated, with curving edges, the warts are dull - if it is too warm and dry in winter, it is better to keep the plants at a temperature of 10 to 15 ° C.
The ends of the leaves dry, the leaves curl off the edges - if it is too warm and dry, often near the central heating battery. If in winter it is not possible to keep the flower in a cool place, then you need to protect it from the hot air of the battery, for example, with glass. Can even be placed on a pallet with wet pebbles.
The plant stretches, the leaves become reddish, the ends dry - in the absence of a transplant, from a lack of nutrients. Do not forget to replant the Hawortia annually and periodically separate the children.
The leaves turn red, brown spots appear or the ends dry - when kept in direct sun for a long time, for example, on a southern, unshaded window in summer. In fact, 3-4 hours of direct sun is enough for Haworthia, preferably in the morning or evening. In the spring, they gradually accustom themselves to the sun to avoid burns.
The leaves, especially the lower ones, become lethargic, easily torn off - if the plant is flooded. In summer, Haworthia is watered so that the soil has time to dry out, but no water should remain on the pan. In winter, watering depends on the temperature - at 10-12 ° C about once a month, if 13-15 ° C, then about once every three weeks, at a temperature of about 18-20 ° C once every 10-14 days.
The leaves turn pale, turn yellow or turn red - with an excess of fertilizer. Haworthia is rarely fed - once a month, do not use fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.
Leaves turn black and rot - if it's too cold, moist soil and / or air. This can happen if you leave the plant overnight during a cold snap.