Calamondin (Citrofortunella) Calamondin

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Calamondin (Citrofortunella) Calamondin
Calamondin (Citrofortunella) Calamondin
Video: Calamondin (Citrofortunella) Calamondin
Video: Цитрофортунелла (каламондин) за 200 рублей 2023, February

Root family. A very popular potted citrus plant is a hybrid between mandarin and kinkan oval or golden orange. This plant is a small tree, producing miniature oranges, about 4 cm in diameter, rather bitter in taste. Flowering occurs mainly in summer, although both flowers and fruits can appear all year round. Over time, the plant reaches 1.2 m in height. Calamondin (citrofortunella) is the most suitable citrus tree for the home.

Calamondin care


Citrofortunella is thermophilic, which means that it grows well in warm home conditions all year round (provided there is good lighting in winter). For fruiting, it does not require a pronounced cold dormant period, but if you are interested in ideal conditions for growth, then the optimal temperature in summer: 22-24 ° C during the day, 18-20 ° C at night. In winter 16-18 ° C, not lower than 12 ° C, at temperatures above 25 ° C in winter and lack of light, calamondin quickly stretches, fruiting is less abundant each time.


Bright diffused light. It will be good on the windowsill of the east and southeast windows. Calamondin grows and blooms well, growing on the north-western side. It is hot on the southern and western windowsills in summer and will need shading in the afternoon, but in winter sunny windows are just right, and the north side will require additional lighting (fluorescent or LED lamps). If the bush or tree is large enough, then additional lighting will have to be done from at least two sides.



In summer and spring, calamondin is watered quite abundantly 1-2 times a day with warm water, and with regard to fruit-bearing trees it is very important that the soil is well moistened completely, and not in places. Those. often and little by little watering is impractical, you need to abundantly, but less often, with good drying. The upper half of the soil must dry out. This is necessary so that there is enough water for all the roots feeding the different branches of a small tree.

Starting in September, with an increase in rainy and cloudy days, watering is reduced. In winter, watering is rare and moderate, depending on the air temperature; the colder, the less often. After the soil in the upper part of the pot dries out, wait a few more days, however, in winter, the earthen coma should not be allowed to dry out, as this leads to curling and falling leaves, sprinkling ovaries and fruits. On the other hand, do not forget that plants die from excess moisture.

Air humidity

You might be surprised, but Citrofortunella is quite tolerant in the normal humidity of the air in the house. During the period when the heating is not turned on, it is absolutely not necessary to spray it. Can be sprayed only in summer, when dry hot days. With the beginning of the heating season, everything must be done so that dry and hot air from the batteries does not fall on the leaves. If you have narrow windowsills, cover the battery with wet sheets or move the pot to a room with additional lighting. You can put a wide tray on the windowsill, so that its edge extends beyond the borders of the window sill and protects the calamondin leaves from the flow of dry air. Wet sphagnum moss can be placed on the pallet. If in your apartment during the heating season the air humidity does not drop below 40%, then there is absolutely nothing to worry about.

At the same time, citrofortunella responds very well to hot showers, which are carried out purely for hygienic purposes. Leaves tolerate water around 55 ° C. The strong pressure of water from the shower helps fight spider mites, which sometimes attack citrus trees. It is important here not to damage the fruits: put a grate on the bath (on which you sit when you wash), put the pot on its side so that the leaves hang in the air, and water from the shower from the pot to the back of the leaves. To prevent the earth from spilling out, you can first cover the pot with foil. BUT! after spilling the leaves from the back side, remove the film from the pot, place it vertically, on the bottom and water on top of the leaves, then the soil. It is with hot water. Then let the water drain properly from the drainage holes in the pot. And take it to the room. Watch the groundif it dries for a long time, loosen the earth, near the walls of the pot, and water only after thorough drying. With the right approach (without injuries and swamps in a pot), citrofortunella perfectly tolerates a hot shower and does not discard any ovaries or fruits.


Young citrofortunella saplings are transplanted annually in spring. Adults - in 2-3 years. Transplants are carried out in the spring and only if absolutely necessary (if the plant was heavily flooded) at other times of the year. If the tree has grown a lot over the summer, you can transfer it to a slightly larger pot in the fall without touching the root ball. In general, calamondin does not like it when the roots are very much picked, try to do everything carefully: during transplants, you should not greatly destroy the earthen lump.

The pot is more suitable, not deep (of the same width and height), at the bottom there are always large holes for water drainage. Make sure the drain is not clogged. As a drainage - large expanded clay (not from a construction site, but pure floral) or broken shards of coconut. The root collar should be at the same level during transplantation as it was before. It is not advisable to replant trees at the beginning of flowering and fruit ovary, as this leads to their dropping.

Primer for Calamondin

Here are some soil options for planting Calamondin

  • 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of leafy land, 1 part of well-rotted humus and 1 part of fine gravel. Suitable for old large trees.
  • 2 parts of leafy soil, 2 parts of horse manure humus, 2 parts of coarse river sand (2-3 mm gravel), 1 part of sphagnum moss, 1 part of vermiculite. More suitable for young or Dutch shop-bought.
  • If you have nowhere to take sod and leafy soil, take the universal soil Terra Vita - 3 parts, 1 part vermicompost (good vermicompost brand "Your Earth Osnova"), 1 part fine gravel or zeolite granules (from cat litter for Barsik toilets).

The acidity of the soil for citrus fruits should be in the pH range of 6.5.

Fertilizing citrofortunella

From March to August, every two weeks, citrofortunella needs additional fertilizing with complex fertilizers. They do not need a high dose of nitrogen - these trees do not grow quickly, it is enough that in fertilizers for flowering plants or special fertilizers for citrus fruits. But phosphorus, potassium and trace elements are essential for good flowering and fruiting. Fertilizers are applied with water for irrigation, not earlier than a month after transplantation. If calamondin blooms or bears fruit in autumn and winter, it also needs feeding, but in a more rare mode - once a month is enough. Never exceed the dosage of fertilizers. Lux fertika, agriculture for flowering are not bad.


Calamondin is usually propagated by cuttings in the spring and grafting.

It is best to root cuttings in pure vermiculite, in a zip bag. A zip package is one with the top that is hermetically sealed with a string lock. Pour clean vermiculite into the bag and slightly moisten.

Cut twigs from the calamondin tree in the place where their thickness is 4-5 mm, about 10 cm long. Usually these are not apical cuttings, but from the middle of the branch! Calculate the length of the cutting based on the fact that the cut must be made under the bud, retreating 2-3 mm and the lowest leaves in the axils of these buds must be removed. Measure 10 cm (or a little more) - so that the upper cut is at least 5-7 mm above the knot.

The leaves on the cutting need to be preserved, you do not need to cut or halve them - this is a supply of nutrients for the cutting, and it will need strength!

Calamondin cuttings take root slowly and reluctantly, over several months. Therefore, it is worth using a rooting agent. You can use the powder of the drug "Kornevin", add vitamins B1 and B6 to it. Open ampoules of vitamins and add as many drops to the root powder to make a gruel. Coat the cuttings and place in the vermiculite in a zip bag. Close the bag and hang it with clothespins in a bright place. Best of all is the southeast side (on the southern side, cuttings can burn in summer). More and more nothing is required of you, just wait. The moisture content in the bag is almost 100%, so there is usually no need to add water.

For grafting calamondine cuttings, it is best to use wild orange seed (grown from seed) as a rootstock. Can be grafted with whip or bark. The main thing is to vaccinate in the phase of active plant growth, when there is intensive sap flow.


Growing problems

Calamondin has small leaves, old ones turn yellow, does not bear fruit

This can be caused by the depletion of the plant, when it has not been transplanted for a long time, or planted in too poor peat soil. Not all store-bought soils are suitable for citrus fruits, even with additional improvement with vermicompost or humus, so use only proven ones with good reviews.

Yellow spots appear on the leaves or the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the leaves fall prematurely

A similar problem arises with excessive watering, when the ground is heavy, drying out for a long time, and there is not enough oxygen for the roots. Watering should be moderate, i.e. the soil should have time to dry out. The appearance of stains can also be caused by keeping the plant next to the central heating battery.

Fuzzy light spots on the leaves, gray in places, with a marble pattern

These are spider mite injuries. Look for the pest on the back of the leaves. For treatment, use drugs of the acaricide group or a hot shower.

Light, almost white dry spots on the leaves

These are sunburns - the bright southern sun is dangerous in spring and early summer; burns can appear on the southwestern window from the beginning of summer.

Sudden blackening and leaf fall

It occurs from hypothermia, most often when the plant has moist soil, the earth is not dry enough. Usually hypothermia for calamondine is irreversible, the plant may die. It is especially worth taking care of transportation home from the store. OBI often sells calamondins, hung with fruits and plentifully watered, when transporting, place the pot in a woolen hat, wrap it in a shawl, and then in a pile of newspapers.

Leaves can fall off, turn brown, become stained when overfeeding with fertilizers, when soil acidifies, when insoluble salts are deposited in the soil, acidity shifts to the alkaline side and certain nutrients are not assimilated. If calamondin leaves turn yellow before rushing to feed it, check the acidity of the soil, moderate watering, replace, if necessary, the top layer of the earth if it is covered with a salt crust, or transplant it into fresh, high-quality soil.

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