Sinningia Sinningia Or Gloxinia - Varieties, Cultivation And Care: Watering, Transplanting, Reproduction, Growing Problems

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Sinningia Sinningia Or Gloxinia - Varieties, Cultivation And Care: Watering, Transplanting, Reproduction, Growing Problems
Sinningia Sinningia Or Gloxinia - Varieties, Cultivation And Care: Watering, Transplanting, Reproduction, Growing Problems
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Video: Gloxinia - How to plant corms (Sinningia speciosa) 2023, February
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Content

  • Sinningia varieties
  • Synningia care
  • Reproduction of synningia
  • Sinningia growing problems

The Gesnerian family. Homeland - Atlantic coastal forests of Central and South America (mainly Brazil). There are about 65 species in nature - all of them are perennial herbaceous plants, but the most famous species of Sinningia fine Sinningia speciosa, was originally introduced into cultivation as Gloxinia fine (speciosa), is still widely known to flower growers and comes from flower greenhouses as "Gloxinia".

In fact, it's time to move away from the wrong name, because the true Gloxinia is gradually gaining momentum in popularity - see the description of Gloxinia. The main visual difference between gloxinia and synningia is that gloxinia have long, scaly rhizomes - underground rhizomes, while sinningia have tubers. But besides this, of course, in the age of genetic engineering, it is not difficult for scientists to identify any species using molecular research methods.

There is still confusion about the belonging of similar Gesneriaceae to a specific genus and species, many species from Sinningia took official status relatively recently - in 2012, so synonyms are often found.

Sinningia fine Sinningia speciosa is a herbaceous plant native to Southeast Brazil, with long leaves on short petioles. The leaves are uniformly green, velvety, ovoid or oblong in shape, collected in a basal rosette. Flowers, depending on the variety, can be of a wide variety of shades and shapes - with a simple bend of the corolla and ruffled, drooping and upward, pink, purple, red with a white rim, purple, white, blue, red. Corolla bell-shaped, six-petaled, straight or drooping, the original species is simple, the varietal has double and semi-double flowers. We are accustomed to seeing Sinningia beautiful in the most colorful variants with flowers reaching 8-10 cm in diameter, but what the original look looked like: small rosettes and flowers about 2.5 cm in diameter, unpretentious blue flowers with a white throat,a species very similar to perennial Gloxinia, so they were endlessly confused

Today, many gloxinias sold in flower shops are grown from seeds - these are hybrids of Sinningia the beautiful, bred solely for the sake of flowers, with a genetically weak root system, are distinguished by the fact that they do not recover well after a dormant period, and often die after flowering.

Industrial greenhouses and flower growers grow and sell them as annuals intended for the season - in European countries they decorate gardens, parks, schools seasonally with them, put them in pots on café sites, like our petunias, but throw them away after flowering, as such hybrids come out pretty hard. If you come across such plants that bloom vigorously, and then begin to wither, perhaps this is not your fault, not a violation of care, but the genetic characteristics of the plant. It is not profitable for breeders of such potted plants to breed hardy perennials, all selection is aimed exclusively at seasonal flowering. However, not everything is so sad, many synningia (former gloxinia) adapt well to home conditions, grow nodules and leaf mass, not weakened by diseases and plant pests,hibernation in the optimal mode for them, and again begin the growing season in the spring.

Sinningia varieties (gloxinia)

Sinningia Yessenia
Sinningia Yessenia

Sinningia cultivar "Yesenia"

sinningia variety bohemia
sinningia variety bohemia

Sinningia cultivar "Bohemia"

sinningia emperor wilhelm
sinningia emperor wilhelm

Sinningia cultivar "Kaiser Wilhelm"

sinningia jasmine
sinningia jasmine

Sinningia cultivar "Jasmine"

The varieties differ not only in colors, patterns and terry flowers, but in leaves - they can have a strongly cut wavy edge or light green veins.

sinningia cultivar chance encounter
sinningia cultivar chance encounter

Sinningia "A chance encounter"

sinningia cultivar stormy pass
sinningia cultivar stormy pass

Sinningia "Storm Pass"

sinningia tigrin variety
sinningia tigrin variety

Sinningia "Tigrina""

sinningia variety blue pearl
sinningia variety blue pearl

Sinningia" Blue Pearl"

Among the hybrids of Sinningia beautiful there is such a variety that collectors have singled out separate groups in which varieties similar in shape are combined. For example, the group of Sinningia "Tydea" is not a cultivar or a variety, it is a group of fine sinningia varieties that differ in the shape of flowers: the corolla is concave at the top and pot-bellied at the bottom, such flowers in some species of the genus Coleria Kohleria, which were previously separated into a separate genus Tydeus Tydaea. It is easy to distinguish synningia from the Tidei group - they have a tuber, while true Tidei (Colerias) have no tuber. T. about. when they say Sinningia Tydea (or Gloxinia Tydea - obsolete), the shape of the Tydea flower is meant:

sinningia tydea
sinningia tydea

Sinningia Tydea

Sinningia tydea
Sinningia tydea

Sinningia Tydea

Sinningia tydea
Sinningia tydea

Sinningia Tydea group

In addition to the Tydeus group, among the beautiful hybrids of Sinningia, there are the Compact and Miniature groups - the difference in the size of the bush, the leaves of miniature sinningia the size of a two-ruble coin. Each group contains many varieties with different colors and shades:

sinningia mini
sinningia mini

Sinningia Petite 'Party Dude'

sinningia mini
sinningia mini

Sinningia Petite 'Ozark Pink Popcorn'

Sinningia white-haired Sinningia leucotricha - this species is unusual, has a large spherical flattened caudex, in nature it is quite large - up to 20 cm in diameter, at home it grows rather slowly, caudex on average about 10 cm in diameter. Caudex is gray or brown, with the beginning of the growing season, light green stems appear on it from the growth points. The stems are always erect, the leaves are alternate, they sit so tightly that they form a rosette at the top of the stem, which makes the synningia look like a fluffy tiny palm tree. The original view has one tier of rosette of leaves, but there are variations that form two tiers of leaves and flowers. All aerial parts of the plant are covered with white tomentose pubescence. The corolla of the flower is a long narrow tube, like a pipe, also covered with short whitish hairs on the outside. The flowers themselves are carmine red, axillary.Synonym for Rechsteineria white-haired Rechsteineria leucotricha. In nature, it grows on mountain slopes, in crevices between stones, where the air is very humid, but moisture is never retained in the roots. Grown as a succulent. After the end of the first flowering, this synning can also be cut off, which stimulates new shoot growth and re-flowering

Sinningia white-haired
Sinningia white-haired

Sinningia white-haired

Sinningia white-haired
Sinningia white-haired

Sinningia white -haired Sinningia

Sinningia white-haired
Sinningia white-haired

flowers white-haired

Other types of synningia are also very decorative, here are some of them:

Sinningia Richie
Sinningia Richie

Sinningia richii Sinningia richii cultivar 'Obson Lopez'

sinningia proportionate
sinningia proportionate

Sinningia commensurate with Sinningia eumorpha cultivar 'Sultan'

Sinningia Shiffnery
Sinningia Shiffnery

Sinningia shiffneri Sinningia schiffneri

Sinningia - care

Sinningia is a plant with a pronounced change in growth and dormancy phases, therefore, special care for them. During the period of growth and flowering - as for all other home flowers, watering, top dressing, periodic loosening of the top layer of the earth. In the spring, after planting the tubers, the leaf mass begins to grow, and while the rosette is still forming, the buds are already being laid. Adult specimens of synningia (from 3-4 years of age), with proper care, can bloom for a long time - from May to September, and profusely, forming up to hundreds of flowers during flowering, sometimes 10-15 simultaneously opening buds. After the first spring flowering, plants should be trimmed to the first two lower leaves to encourage a second flowering period. Don't be afraid to do this, just cut off all the leaves and wilted stalks, leaving the two lowest leaves. Sprinkle the stump with crushed coal.

Continue leaving as usual, and reduce watering - after all, the evaporating surface of the plant has greatly decreased, but do not stop, do not allow the soil to dry out too much. Soon, young growth appears from the axils of each old leaf, and two new rosettes grow, ready to bloom. When young outlets are growing, gradually increase watering again.

Temperature and dormant period: At home, synningia grows well at normal temperatures, does not tolerate heat above 28 ° C, since the humidity of the air drops sharply. Ventilate the room more often, or even better, put the pots on the glassed-in balcony, where the windows are constantly ajar, but protect the flowers from the wind. Optimum during the growing and flowering period is a moderate temperature of about 22-24 ° C, not lower than 16 ° C at night. Winter minimum when storing tubers is 10 ° C, it is possible at 12-13 ° C.

Sometimes synningia do not want to retire themselves, they will bloom, and the leaves do not dry out. Then you need to completely stop watering and rearrange it to cool conditions. The leaves will begin to wither. When the aerial part is completely dry, the tubers must be removed from the ground and placed in dry peat or sawdust. Store them in the coolest place you can find, but not in the refrigerator. If the tubers shrivel during storage, you need to lightly spray them with a spray bottle to avoid drying out.

Lighting: Sinningia is photophilous and requires bright, diffused light with some direct sun in the morning or evening. An east or northwest window is ideal. When kept in the direct summer sun, yellow-brown spots may appear on the leaves of sinningia - sunburn, therefore, reflective foil, a sheet of parchment can be glued to the windows on the south and west sides, or a double layer of mosquito net can be hung from the glass. Do not leave sinningia in a stuffy, unventilated room on hot days or on a closed balcony, where a greenhouse is created from the sun's heat in a small space - the plant can burn out, shed its buds, dry the leaves. Fresh air is extremely important for the growth of sturdy, hardened Sinningia (Gloxinia) shrubs. We rarely talk about supplementary lighting of these Gesneriaceae, usually at home they bloom,although weaker, even on the north side. But supplementary lighting is usually necessary for young plants grown from seeds (seedlings and seedlings) and cuttings rooted in spring. For supplementary lighting, use fluorescent lamps or LED lamps with a conventional base.

Watering: Sinningia are watered quite abundantly during growth and flowering, but excessive moisture is detrimental to them. Therefore, in order to avoid flooding, the soil must absorb moisture very well and evaporate it just as easily. After the soil dries out in the upper part of the pot, wait another 2-3 days (depending on the temperature), and only then water. If the soil dries out for a very long time, the sinningia tubers can rot - the leaves become soft, droop, the petioles and peduncles turn black, while the earth is damp.

When watering, try to use only warm, chlorine-free water. It is especially dangerous to water flowering or budding bushes with cold water. By the fall, flowering ends, and watering is somewhat reduced, and by the end of September, little is watered, since the plant begins to wilt - a dormant period begins.

Top dressing: Usually, sinningia tubers are stored not in the ground, but in sawdust or peat, and in the spring, when growth buds awaken on them, they are planted in fresh soil. Nutrients are sufficient for the first 1-1.5 months, and then feeding begins. Fertilizers are needed for Saintpaulias or for flowering indoor plants (containing a fairly large amount of potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen). At the same time, it is better to apply fertilizers weekly (through watering) in smaller doses: fertilizers for Saintpaulias are 2 times less than the recommended rate, and fertilizers for ordinary flowering plants are 4 times less than the dose recommended on the package.

Air humidity: Sinningia comes from places where the relative humidity during its growing season constantly remains above 70%. During the period of growth and flowering, sinningia needs very humid air, but does not tolerate the ingress of water on leaves and flowers. Therefore, miniature synningia species, hybrid, varietal - any, it is better to keep in a mini-plate, surrounding the pot with wet sphagnum moss. Regular-sized varieties, not mini, can be placed on wide trays and also spread moist moss between the pots. It should be recalled that the lack of air humidity cannot be compensated for by increasing irrigation.

Transplant: To grow sinningia, use fairly wide pots of low height. Tubers are transplanted annually in the spring, but a larger pot is taken only when the old one becomes cramped. When transplanting, the tuber is buried only halfway into the soil. Replacing the soil is also necessary for the reason that during the growing season with irrigation and fertilization, the soil becomes saline, some of the elements cease to be absorbed. The soil should have a slightly acidic reaction, pH = 5.5 - 6.5. Soil is a mixture of 2 parts of leafy land, 1 part of peat (or greenhouse land) and 1 part of river sand. You can also use store-bought Saintpaulias soil ("Violet", etc.).

If the tuber is deeply deepened into the soil, then it forms only one shoot, while the leaves of the plant are very large, but the plant does not look so beautiful. If the tuber is not planted deeply, it gives 1-2 shoots at a young age, and in an adult plant it forms 3-5 shoots and the bush will be more lush, but with smaller leaves.

Good drainage with gesneria is required. As a drainage, it is better not to take expanded clay, but pieces of foam or wine cork, and it is useful for sinningia, like gloxinia, to add a baking powder zeolite - small granules of cat litter filler (for example, Barsik - on the bag should be written zeolite filler and no other). The granules must be washed from dust and mixed with the ground in the amount of 1 / 5-1 / 7 of the soil, for Sinningia white-haired 1/4 of the volume of the soil. Zeolite granules increase the moisture holding capacity of the substrate and at the same time prevent it from caking and sticking together. If you want to use coconut substrate when mixing, pay attention to the acidity, it usually has a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. In this case, you can add pieces of chopped pine bark to the soil - it acidifies the soil.If you add sphagnum moss to the soil, be careful with watering - the moss is very hygroscopic, the soil dries out with it for a long time.

Reproduction of synningia

sinningia from seed
sinningia from seed

Synningia reproduce by seed, leaf cuttings and tuber division. Whichever method you propagate the plants, it strongly recommends that the soil be sterilized in the microwave or oven before planting in order to minimize or eliminate possible pathogens or pests.

When propagating by leaf cuttings, young leaves taken during the budding period are suitable. For rooting, take loose nutrient soil, make a hole in the middle of the pot with a diameter of about 3 cm and the same depth and pour wet river sand (or vermiculite) there. The stalk is planted in the sand and covered with a jar. Roots are more efficiently formed with soil heating, so the rooting cutting is kept on a sunny windowsill, covering the leaves from direct rays with gauze and a piece of tulle. The jar can be removed when nodules begin to form at the ends of the petiole, this is usually a month after the start of rooting.

When propagating by dividing a tuber, in the spring they take a strongly overgrown tuber and cut it into pieces with a sharp knife. Each piece should have 1-2 shoots. The cuts of the tuber are sprinkled with crushed coal, and the parts of the tuber are seated in separate pots. Moreover, after planting the tuber, it is not watered for 2-3 days.

Sinningia seeds are sown in January - February in wide bowls covered with leafy soil (you can use coniferous, heather) in half with sand. The seeds are not sown thickly, without burying them in the soil and without sprinkling them with earth. The plate is covered with glass and kept at a temperature not lower than 22 ° C. Seed germination depends on the storage time, it should not exceed 3 years from the time of collection. Seedlings usually appear 2 weeks after sowing. When the first 2 leaves of the sprout become clearly distinguishable, they are dived into a bowl at a distance of 2 cm from each other. The second pick is made when the seedlings have a third pair of leaves and they are planted at a distance of 5 cm from each other. The third pick is made when three pairs of leaves are already well developed, while the seedlings are also planted in a common box at a distance of 10 cm from each other.When young bushes begin to touch each other with leaves, they can already be planted in pots with a diameter of 12 cm. With proper care, flowering can begin as early as 7 months after sowing. Sinningia white-haired in the first year after sowing does not yet have caudex, similar to an ordinary plant, but it gradually grows.

If you want to get the seeds of sinningia (gloxinia) yourself, then artificial pollination is used for this. In order for the seeds to ripen, watering is not reduced after flowering. The seed pods gradually turn yellow and open. When this begins to happen, the boxes are removed, all aboveground parts of the plant are cut off, and after drying the soil in a pot, they are removed to storage. Sinningia seeds are stored in paper bags in a dry place.

Gloxinia and synningia can be pollinated among themselves, and it also easily interbreeds with streptocarpus, resulting in streptoxinia with blue or pink flowers.

Sinningia growing problems

Brown spots on the leaves - formed if the plant was watered with cold water, the water for irrigation should be warm; if it is too cold, especially after watering.

Leaves turn yellow - from an overdose of fertilizers, when it is too dry and hot (above 30 ° C); when there is too much sun.

Gray bloom on leaves and flowers - gray rot or powdery mildew - fungal infections that occur, as a rule, when the conditions of detention are violated. It is necessary to stop spraying, remove the affected parts, treat with a systemic fungicide.

Sinningia does not bloom - if it is improperly kept during the dormant period, when the tubers are very dry, they are kept warm; from an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, unsuitable soil rich in organic matter; with an acute lack of light (when the pot is not on the windowsill, but in a room without additional lighting); when it is very hot and low relative humidity.

Pests - synningia can be attacked by whiteflies, thrips, mealybugs and other pests (see pests).

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