Muraya From Seeds At Home: Sowing, Caring For Crops, Growing, Flowering

Table of contents:

Muraya From Seeds At Home: Sowing, Caring For Crops, Growing, Flowering
Muraya From Seeds At Home: Sowing, Caring For Crops, Growing, Flowering
Video: Muraya From Seeds At Home: Sowing, Caring For Crops, Growing, Flowering
Video: How To Grow Murraya Paniculata From Seeds || Grow Kamini Plant From Seeds 2023, February
Anonim

Murraya is one of the most popular tropical exotic plants that can be grown on your windowsill. The attractiveness of murraya is obvious: openwork spreading crown, abundant fragrant bloom, responsiveness to attention and care (abundance of berries). The murraya plant very well cleans the air in the house from chemical compounds released by building materials and household appliances, and in addition, it releases phytoncides and aromatic oils, which help to reduce pathogenic microorganisms in the air.

Yuri Aleksandrovich Markin, a collector and florist, shared his experience with us.

Murraya is ours and Dutch

Murraya belongs to the rutaceae family and is the closest relative of citrus fruits. At home, Murraya Paniculata is most often grown - it is easier to get seeds, purchase and receive by mail. Very often you can hear the terminology "Murraya Dutch" and "Murraya ours". What does it mean?

In fact, both are one and the same species - Murraya paniculata, synonym - Murraya exotica, popular name "Orange jasmine". The plant got its name in honor of the 18th century Swedish botanist Johan Andreas Murray. And it is written in Latin - Murraya, hence the two letters "p" in the name. But first, the second letter "p" began to be skipped in the name of Murraya - it is easier to pronounce it this way, and then it disappeared from the spelling of the plant's name, which of course is incorrect.

From observing numerous seedlings, I can say the following that they grow and develop in different ways - some grow compactly and bloom when the first pair of true leaves appears, others pretend to be Dutch, grow by leaps and bounds and do not think to bloom. In general, they are very wayward plants, the crown develops in different ways, although it can and should be formed.

There is a variety Murraya 'Min a Min' - in nature there is a very dense shrub no more than 1 m high, the length of each leaf is about 1.5-2 cm.And of course, Murraya black-fruited Murraya koenigii in its own unique species - its seeds can also be found on sale, the popular name 'curry tree' - its feathery leaves are more elongated than those of murraya paniculate leaves - lanceolate, pointed at the end with a crenate edge, are included in a mixture of curry spices (leaves have a distant smell of turpentine). The flowers are not white, but rather light creamy, with multi-flowered shields. And when ripe, the berries turn black.

Murraya belongs to self-pollinated plants, fruits are set easily. After the berries are ripe, the seeds are harvested and can be sown.

Murraya in the encyclopedia

Sowing technology of seeds Murraya paniculata

Obtaining and preparing murraya seeds

When the seeds ripen, it is better not to overexpose, so that they do not start to rot right on the branches, if they themselves do not fall off (this did not happen - not once).

Eat or wash the pulp, freeing the seeds. If there is leftover pulp, clean it carefully, rinse it in a strainer under running, warm water and place it in a depleted solution of Bordeaux liquid. Depleted he, for me, becomes due to the constant evaporation of moisture from the glass. I add fresh water, part of the active substance, one way or another, decreases with use. The glass with the solution has been on the shelf in the bathroom for about a year, has not lost activity, it only constantly precipitates - you have to stir it when using it.

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

Depleted solution of Bordeaux liquid - for soaking seeds

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

Murraya paniculata Russia - seeds in a greenhouse, 2016-22-06

In this example, the seeds were kept in a fungicide for a day (there was simply no time for them). And so, in the evening they are soaked - at night, in the morning they are washed under running water and put into a greenhouse on moistened foam rubber.

Sowing seeds

So, the seeds are pre-prepared - cleaned of pulp, rinsed under running water and soaked in a solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate for 2-3 hours, rinsed again and placed in a greenhouse for pecking the roots. All this is done with the aim of visually rejecting low-quality (underdeveloped, rotten, empty) seeds. And so, you can sow all the seeds at once, without sorting, and, hopefully, out of 10 seeds, all 10 will germinate, however, it is not a fact that this will happen. Even viable seeds, for some reason, may not germinate - simply by rotting in the ground.

It is noticed that if the seeds are green, then the roots peck quickly, if the seeds have a beige hue, then a little longer, brown ones are not viable, they are already rotten and not developed. In such seeds, in the remainder, only the outer and inner shells are present, the embryo itself, as a rule, is no longer there, or it has rotted, or was very small.

Seed germination will take place in a greenhouse from a container, with a foam rubber insert inserted into the bottom, filled with water until this substrate is wetted and water appears on the surface - just barely.

The greenhouse is heated, on a glass shelf, which in turn is in direct contact with the heated towel rail. Heating temperature is about 32-35 ° С. Note that for seeds; murray, citrus, tomato, pepper, pomegranate, figs, kiwi, etc. Such a high heating temperature is quite acceptable and works well. It has been noticed that peaking of the roots occurs even faster if the greenhouses are removed from heating at night and left there in the bathroom. The sown seeds, with sprouted roots, can be placed in a room with a temperature of 26-28 ° C, under a shelter in the form of a greenhouse from an inverted cup, until the sprout is hatching. At lower temperatures (below 24 ° C), sprouts appear a little later.

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

Murraya paniculata, heated greenhouse, 24.06.2016

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

Murraya paniculata Murraya paniculata Russia - roots hatched, 24.05.2016

Murraya growing from seed
Murraya growing from seed

Murraya paniculata Murraya paniculata Russia - seedlings, 25.05.2016

By the way, for the seeds of the Japanese medlar - this temperature turned out to be high. More than 1.5 months of standing on the heating, not a single one bent a spine. As soon as the hot water supply was turned off and the greenhouses moved to a room with an air temperature of 28-30 ° C, they immediately began to peck at the roots. Almost all the seeds have already been planted in individual cups, with a cover from an inverted cup, in the form of a greenhouse - so that the soil is not watered until shoots appear and the shelter is removed.

Planting seeds in the ground

Roots peck in different ways, mainly in 3-4 days, up to 7 days. I plant them in plastic cups with a volume of 100-200 ml, at the bottom they have four crosswise cuts (drainage holes). The cups are filled with self-prepared soil mixture, of the approximate composition, which is prepared for citrus fruits. The soil is watered until completely wetted. This cup is inserted into a similar one, but without slots, or installed in a common tray (wide, large pallet).

After landing in 100-200 gram cups, and installation under illumination lamps, the cups are covered with caps. Thus, a greenhouse is created from inverted cups of the appropriate size. In the greenhouse, constant humidity is maintained, which contributes to faster germination of seeds and release from the outer shell. Also, the soil does not require additional watering and moisture, since its moisture is preserved in the greenhouse.

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

The date of planting, the root of the seed, in a 100 g cup

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

Murraya paniculata (Russia) first shoots 04.06.2016

Murraya growing from seed
Murraya growing from seed

Murraya paniculata - placing seedlings under the lamps

In order not to accidentally injure the young root, a small depression is made in the moistened soil (with a metal nail file) - the seed is inserted without any effort, slightly deepened relative to the ground level and with a nail file, the soil is squeezed around the planted seed.

By the way, for planting citrus fruits, in 200 ml cups, I pierce the soil with the same nail file, almost to the very bottom. For planting medlar seeds, shaking the stuck nail file, back and forth, I expand the hole. In principle, if you do not bother, then, the seeds can easily be stuck into the soil that has just been moistened, and is still quite loose in the upper layer.

Murraya - crop care

In improvised greenhouses, the seeds stand until the shoots appear. Cups, usually at night, are moved 1 / 3-1 / 2 - for acclimatization. In the morning, before leaving for work, or in the evening - the shelter is removed. You can play it safe and remove the shelter in 2-3 days.

At the first watering without shelter, the top layer of the soil is necessarily mulched (loosened) - this way the water will not stagnate and, if the soil has dried out and managed to slightly lag behind the walls, then, after loosening the top layer with a small screwdriver, a stick, or the same nail file, you can easily fill the voids around the container perimeter.

All the time spent in the greenhouse, the cups with the seedlings are under the general lighting of the room with numerous lighting devices that illuminate the plants.

Murraya from seed
Murraya from seed

Murraya paniculata - removal of the outer shell (2016-04-06) Murraya

Murraya from seed
Murraya from seed

sprout freed from the outer shell (2016-04-06)

If you saw that the seed began to break through the outer shell, after about 7-14 days, then you can carefully remove it with tweezers without damaging the sprout (you can leave it as it is and wait for the sprout to break through the shell on its own).

As soon as you notice a break in the outer shell of the seed. It can be carefully removed by first (additionally) moistening with water from a spray bottle, so it can easily separate from the seed. In this case, the cap is removed from the inverted cup immediately.

Usually, I remove the shell myself, moisten the sprout from the spray bottle, and remove the cap from the inverted cup - right away.

If this moment is missed, then, several options are possible for adapting a seedling sprout already developed in the greenhouse.

  • Option 1, remove the cap overnight and moisturize by sprinkling with water from a spray bottle.
  • Option 2, move the cap out of the inverted glass of the greenhouse by 1.5-2 cm and soak for 1-2 days. Then, simply remove the cap, you can spray, and again - overnight.

Murray seedlings, freed from the shells, are installed under the lamps for further vegetation. Some of them stand under an ordinary 11W office fluorescent lamp, but a lot of light falls from the nearby 2x35W + ESL105W mist, also nearby.

And in a month, young Murraykas will grow (in my conditions, from freshly planted and prepared seeds):

Murayi seedlings
Murayi seedlings

Murraya paniculata, seedlings - a month, 2016-26-05

Blooming and fruiting murraya

I have many specimens of Murraya paniculata of different ages, large plants and young, photos of Murraya from different bushes. Murraya Paniculata (Russia) - seed cycle in home cultivation:

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

Murraya paniculata (Russia) in buds,

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

2016-17-03 Murraya paniculata faded and tied, 2016-20-05

Murraya growing from seed
Murraya growing from seed

Murraya paniculata - one and adult bushes in bloom 2016-18-03

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

Murraya paniculata (Russia) - fruiting of an adult bush, 2016-17-03

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

Murraya paniculata - ripe fruits, 2016-03-05

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

Blooming of a young murraya, 2016-17-03

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

The flower is ready for pollination - the pollen is ripe, 2016-17-03

sowing muraya
sowing muraya

Two seeds in the fruit - blossomed and set - from the cradle, 2016-20-05

Murraya paniculata
Murraya paniculata

Another murraya blooms from the cradle, 2016-20-05

Murraya growing from seed
Murraya growing from seed

This flower murraya pollen is not ripe, 2016-20-05

Pruning Murraya

Murraya is very responsive to haircuts, easy to shape. The only remark: you do not need to cut all branches at once and carry out all activities exclusively during the growing season - from the end of winter to the end of summer. It is necessary to gradually shorten the ends of the shoots, this stimulates the growth of the crown. Layers can be made on long lateral ropes - rooting is better and faster than from a cutting.

You can form a murraya with a stem - align one of the lower branches and pinch and trim at the desired height. I do not recommend cutting large branches right away, they need to be shortened gradually. The stem is convenient in that at first the pot with the plant can be placed on the podium or table by the window, and later, when the tree grows, it can be placed on the floor. The crown will just be at the level of the window, and there will be enough light.

By the way, if you are waiting for the ripening of the fruit, and then you want to trim, then I assure you, nothing will come of it. The point is that murraya won't give you that chance. Murraya constantly has buds, ovaries and fruits in the ripening stage. And for good nutrition, like other plants, murraya needs to preserve all the leaves that will nourish not only the plant itself, but also the fruits.

So you have to choose what you want. If for treatment, then, you can cut off some old leaves, twigs that do not fit into the formation of the crown, or buy in general - a Dutch woman just for medicinal needs.

Murraya care

In young Murraya seedlings that are going to bloom, the buds must be pinched - it will grow faster and save strength (collect buds and petals in tincture or brew tea). Murraya will respond to such an action with a repeated set of buds, they need to be pinched again. Thus, we do not allow her to tie fruits until the vegetative mass is set - about 15 to 25-30 cm in height.

Top dressing

Young plants, about 10-15 cm in height, do not need to be fed, it is important to transfer them into slightly large pots in a timely manner, after the roots have filled the entire volume of the provided soil (this can be seen in transparent plastic cups). I feed my murrayas when the leaves speak of a lack of nutrition and when setting fruits. Murraya does not tolerate overfeeding, does not like fatty and heavy nutrient soils.

As for the dressing, I feed very rarely - the "Flower Happiness" for citrus fruits falls at the time of bearing fruit, since growth is inhibited due to the lack of space for large plants. And so, if you transfer it correctly and on time, 2-3 months after transplantation, I start feeding: organic matter with macro-microelements (from NPO Power of Life LLC - Florist (Growth)) - at the time of active vegetation. As well as organo-mineral fertilizers "Izumrud" from CJSC MNPP Fart - alternating them, taking into account the state of the leaves and the season, in the spring - "Izumrud", and the rest of the time "Growth".

At the moment of fruit setting and bearing - fertilizer for citrus fruits - "Flower Happiness" from Fasco. They can also finish feeding in the autumn - it contains more potassium than other fertilizers. Top dressing is better to make, in half dose, I prefer the last "Flower Happiness" from Fasco. Do not forget the main rule - "It is better not to feed than to overfeed!"

Watering

Murrayas love uniform moisture, overdrying with loss of turgor can normally be tolerated, but drying of leaf plates (by about 2/3, especially old ones), can already lead to the final death of the plant. There were such cases, and therefore I speak from the practice of observation, irrevocably lost specimens, as well as those flooded with constant watering with insufficiently dried soil - anything happens when there are a lot of them in small containers of 100-200 g cups.

Lighting

I have artificial lighting (lamp), completely diverse. They can grow under 11W fluorescent, table, office lamps 7-10 cm from the crown. They can successfully grow under linear fluorescent lamps, in my case - even 60 cm from the South-West direction window. And also under ECL at 32W and 55W at a distance of 10-20 cm. And under ECL at 105W, with a distance of 20-30 cm. The time of supplementary lighting, or, in general, keeping under artificial lighting is 12-14 hours.

But, Murray grows better in light shade in natural light. Without shading, the leaves fade to a yellow or whitish hue rather quickly. Those. if you keep on the "walk", on the balcony, then, it is better at the wall of the apartment, away from direct sunlight at noon, the morning sun is better, it is less active, relative to the evening, taking into account the warming up of the air and decreasing humidity. If murraya is initially grown in natural light, then the leaves may not fade, since they are already adapted to active solar insolation.

Text and photos: Yuri Aleksandrovich Markin (nickname on the YUM forum)

We invite you to join the discussion of sowing murraia, cultivation or problems in care on the forum: Murraya

Popular by topic