Zantedeschia Zantedeschia Calla - Growing And Care At Home

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Zantedeschia Zantedeschia Calla - Growing And Care At Home
Zantedeschia Zantedeschia Calla - Growing And Care At Home
Video: Zantedeschia Zantedeschia Calla - Growing And Care At Home
Video: Как вырастить зантедескию (каллы): руководство по летнему саду 2023, February

Aroid family. Homeland South Africa. In nature, there are about 6 species of tuberous perennial grasses of the genus Zantedeskia. And we know it under a simpler name - calla.

  • Ethiopian Zantedeschia Zantedeschia aethiopica is a large bushy plant with erect stems. Leaves on long petioles - up to 1 m, heart-thyroid, about 30-45 cm long and 15-25 cm wide, green. When flowering, forms several long peduncles. The inflorescence of the cob, which is always shorter than the cover, and in some varieties is double. Bedspread light green or yellow-green 15-25 cm long. Flowering occurs from January to June, after flowering berries are formed about 1 cm in diameter, yellow. On the basis of this species, many varieties have been bred for growing in open and closed ground. It is quite difficult to grow calla lilies at home, because just imagine that it is necessary to create conditions like in its homeland - South Africa, and this is a lot of sun, warmth and free space.
  • White-spotted Zantedeschia Zantedeschia albomaculata is a large bushy plant with erect stems. Leaves on long petioles - up to 1 m, oblong-arrow-shaped, about 30-40 cm long, green on the upper side with small white spots. When flowering, forms several long peduncles. The inflorescence is a cob, with a light yellow or white veil, which has a purple color at the base, up to 10 cm long and about 5 cm wide.
  • Zantedeschia Elliot Zantedeschia elliottiana is a shorter but bushy species. Leaves on petioles up to 60 cm, broadly heart-shaped, about 20-25 cm long and 18-20 cm wide. The leaves are green, with long white spots on the upper side. Inflorescence of the cob, with a veil about 15 cm long, yellow-green in color, pale yellow inside. This species differs in that it is native to the arid provinces of South Africa, therefore, after the end of the flowering of Elliot's Zantedeschia, a dry and cool dormant period is required.

Calla lilies care

Temperature: Grows well and blooms only in warmth, not lower than 18 ° C, the optimum temperature is 22-23 ° C. In winter, a cool wintering is required with a temperature of about 8-12 ° C, but not below + 4 ° C when kept dry.


Lighting: Bright diffused light. Among flower growers, calla is believed to be shade-tolerant. In fact, under natural conditions, calla grows in full sun or in light partial shade, so a western or eastern window would be ideal conditions, but with additional lighting during the period of reduced daylight hours. It is believed that during the growth and formation of the zantedeschia peduncle, a long day is needed - at least 12 hours. But in the future, daylight hours should be 8-10 hours.

Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn, after the topsoil has dried. In winter, watering is moderate, complete overdrying of the earth is not allowed. For watering, it is advisable to use soft water at room temperature or warm.

Top dressing: From the moment the calla lilies grow, you can feed them with nitrogen fertilizers, it is better to alternate organic (rotted manure, humus or such fertilizers as "giant") and mineral (Fertika-lux, Agricola for flowering, Pocon, Bona Forte, etc.). Organic is needed for the growth of leaves and the formation of a lush bush. Such feeding is carried out once a month - one and a half. Mineral fertilizers for flowering houseplants contain a high proportion of phosphorus and potassium - the key to successful flowering.

Air humidity: Likes very humid air, requires regular spraying and washing the leaves. You can keep the pot on a wide pan of water.

Transfer: Zantedeschia requires a spacious pot with a nutrient substrate. After flowering ends in early - mid-summer, watering is reduced and feeding is stopped, gradually the leaves begin to dry out. After that, the plant is transplanted into fresh soil. Soil - 2 parts of sod, 1 part of compost or humus, 1 part of leaf and 1 part of fine gravel (sand, fraction 2-3 mm). Great for hydroponic growing on nutrient substrates.

Reproduction: By dividing the rhizome during transplantation.

Growing Zantedeschia in a pot

1. How to plant a calla tuber?

Gray: The zantedeschia tuber (calla lilies) should be planted to a depth of about 5-7 cm. Pour the soil into the pot, then make a depression to the indicated depth, lower the tuber there, lightly press it against the ground, then sprinkle the depression with soil without compacting it. To determine where the tuber is "up" and where is "down", if you get it without roots, it is quite easy: you should moisten the tuber with an epin solution, wrap it in a paper napkin soaked in an epin solution, and put it in a dark place for a couple of days. After this procedure, the rudiments of the roots appear and, as a rule, the rudiment of the first stem of about 3-5 mm is already sticking out of the tuber. It is very easy to define.

Tuber germination can be seen in a couple of weeks, if the tuber was completely rootless or, if there were rudiments of roots, I sprouted already on the fifth day!

2. What width should a calla lily pot be?

Tamarix: The pot must be at least 15 cm in diameter. It was necessary to plant an onion (rhizome) to a depth of 10-15 cm, because the roots of hybrids grow upwards and grow very quickly, filling the entire pot. Therefore, if you plant the calla not so deep, it will subsequently collapse. Continue to add soil until you realize that the flower is already enough.

3. When can calla lilies be sent to rest?

Gray: In theory, calla lilies can theoretically be sent to rest at any time of the year! The main thing is that the rest time is at least one and a half months. It is best to send the calla to rest in early July until the end of August! It is at this time that "winter" is coming in Africa! Thus, you do not confuse calla with its natural resting interval. And at the beginning of September, you begin to actively wake her up (this is provided that you do not dig out the tuber). If you dig up, then you just plant the tuber in early September, and wait for it to sprout. But if you don't dig out the tuber, then you must remove all yellowed and dead leaves somewhere in early August. You remove it so that there is nothing at all on the surface of the soil. Mine bloomed in the presence of a large number of children and coped with nothing!

4. How can I plant callas - they sit in a pot very close to each other. Calla lilies are very delicate plants.

Gray: Do not be afraid to transplant, if the children do not separate, feel free to take a sharp knife and cut off (I mean, cut and separate the root, and the tubers of the children, just try not to cut the tubers in half, cut between the grown tubers - these happen: up to five pieces grow together) … Do not be afraid, in an adult calla with children, the root is restored very quickly. And it is necessary to transplant regularly, since calla very quickly depletes the soil, sucks out all the trace elements from it.

5. Instead of the promised yellow color, the calla flower appeared green and it stays like that!

Gray: When it first blooms, yellow calla lily (zantedeschia) does indeed produce a pale green flower, becoming pale over time, pale creamy. Already at the second and third flowering, the color of the flower becomes bright yellow.

6. What to do with the wilting calla flower, cut it off or wait until it wilts completely? And when to wait for the second flower?

Tamarix: After the flowers have withered, remove the flower stems, the foliage will still remain. Reduce watering, but keep the plant in moist soil. Toward the end of summer, reduce watering even more in order to provoke the foliage to dieback, and allow the bulb to rest before the first frosts.

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