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Root family. Homeland South and Southeast Asia (India). Naturalized in Australia and North and Central America, Hawaii.
At home grow Murraya paniculata Murraya paniculata. This is a small evergreen shrub, in nature it reaches 5-7 m, with odd-pinnate leaves, consisting of small individual leaves, sitting on the petiole alternately (from 3 to 9 leaves). Each leaf is oval, leathery, narrowed at the end, 4-5 cm long. Fragrant flowers, about 1.5 cm in diameter, in corymbose inflorescences. Corolla with five white, curved petals. Petals 12-18 mm long, white or cream after fading. Fruits are red-orange berries, about 2-3 cm in diameter, oval in shape.
On sale you can also find the seeds of Muraya König Murraya koenigii or 'curry tree' - its feathery leaves are more elongated than those of Muraya, paniculate leaves - lanceolate, pointed at the end with a crenate edge. The flowers are not white, but rather light creamy, with multi-flowered shields. And when ripe, the berries turn black.
Muraya belongs to self-pollinated plants, fruits are set easily. After the berries are ripe, the seeds are harvested and can be sown.
Muraya: home care
Muraya care consists in timely watering, selection of nutritious soil and transplantation, timely pruning: in February - March, you need to shorten each long branch, on which from 4 or more leaves, shortening by 2-3 leaves.
Temperature: Moderate, at home there is not enough good ventilation (there is no strong air movement, wind like outside), so the plants suffer from the heat. If possible, then from the end of spring, it is better to rearrange flower pots on the balcony. At the same time, orient watering to the night temperature (so that by night the soil is not damp and the roots are not overcooled).
All rue, and muraya are no exception, prefer a cold content in winter. Ideally at a temperature of 15-17 ° C, at least 10 ° C. But many growers successfully grow at higher temperatures. It all depends on how well the plants are lit. In winter, in central Russia, it is not too light even on the southern windowsill from October to February. The sun is low and there are few sunny days. Therefore, additional lighting may be needed.
Lighting: Murraya is light-requiring, the best place is the east or south-east window. On the south or west, shading is required in the afternoon from March to August. This is due to the fact that the heat of the plant in a closed room is harder to endure than outside. It inhibits growth, sheds flowers and berries. But if your vents are constantly open and there is an influx of fresh air, shading will only be needed on very hot and dry days (in June or July). On the northern side, muraya will also grow and even occasionally bloom and bear fruit, but the plants from the shady windowsills simply cannot be compared with the splendor of handsome men grown in a bright place.
Watering: Abundant in spring and summer, this means that after the plant has been watered, by the next watering the soil should have time to dry in the upper half of the pot, and if the temperature is above 26 ° C, intensive growth takes place in the upper third of the pot. As soon as the plant slows down in growth with the onset of cool and cloudy days in the fall, reduce watering, you need to wait for the soil to almost completely dry out. At the same time, strong overdrying should not be allowed, when the leaves begin to droop, this can be irreversible - the roots will dry out and stop absorbing moisture even after watering.
Use soft, filtered or boiled water for irrigation. Hard water causes salinization of the soil, which leads to a disruption in the assimilation of important micro and macro elements (boron, potassium, iron, copper, etc.), fertilizing with fertilizers only increases the imbalance of nutrients.
Fertilizer: Since spring, fertilizing twice a month with liquid complex fertilizer for indoor flowers, it is advisable to choose preparations with an equal or almost equal content of basic elements, i.e. so that Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) are in equal proportions. Try not to use organic matter too often, an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers leads to root rot. Also, do not apply any fertilizer if the plant has just been transplanted, is sick, or is not in the growing phase.
Humidity: Murraya is resistant to dry air, but regular spraying is beneficial for it, especially in summer and winter when kept in a room with central heating.
Transfer: Soil - 1 part sod, 1 part leaf, 1 part humus and 1 part fine gravel (or perlite). You can use a commercially available universal soil for indoor plants, better Terra Vita "living earth". Add vermiculite and vermiculite (or coconut substrate) to it. Young Murraya plants are transplanted annually, plants at the age of 4-5 years are transplanted in a year, but it is better to change the topsoil annually, mulching with fresh soil. Currently, there are very few worthy soils offered in stores, the Garden of Miracles series (for citrus fruits and not only) is completely unsuccessful, you should not use it, it is cemented (peat dust in composition). And for muraya, it is very important that the soil is well drained - it easily absorbs water and also gives it away easily. When planting at the bottom of the pot, drain about 3-5 cm,make sure that it does not block the drain holes for normal water flow.
Reproduction of muraya
Muraya is propagated by seeds and cuttings. The seeds are sown in a mixture of sand and vermiculite, or in a mixture of coconut substrate and vermiculite. For germination, a temperature of 26-28C is required. Soil heating can be used. Seeds germinate in 4-8 weeks. For planting, you need to use only fresh seeds (in rue ones, they quickly lose their germination).
Master class: Growing Murraya from seeds
Cuttings are rooted with the use of phytohormones (growth stimulants) in a room greenhouse (from a plastic bottle) or in a zip bag with soil suspended from a window or near lamps. The main thing is that the air humidity around the cutting is 90-100%. The soil for cuttings can consist of equal parts of peat soil and sand (or vermiculite). It is advisable to sterilize the soil in the oven or microwave. The best time for cuttings is February-April.
When growing muraya, a certain feature should be noted: the lower leaves gradually turn yellow and dry, this is a natural aging process. It intensifies if the plant is warm and dry in winter (insufficiently humid air), after abundant flowering and fruiting.