Miltonia Miltonia

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Miltonia Miltonia
Miltonia Miltonia
Video: Miltonia Miltonia
Video: Лучший способ посадки мильтоний из всех ,что я пробовала!!!! Проверенно !!!! 2023, February

Orchid family. Homeland South America. In nature, 7 species of the sympodial type are widespread, growing at an altitude of 600 to 1200 m above sea level.

miltonia snow-white
miltonia snow-white
brilliant miltonia
brilliant miltonia

Some natural species:

  • Miltonia brilliant Miltonia spectabilis - has small, about 7-9 cm flat pseudobulbs, ovoid, bearing 2 leaves, light green, linear. Flower arrows grow at the base of new bulbs and appear in late summer. Peduncle up to 30 cm long, one-flowered (maximum 2 flowers). Fragrant flowers, 7-9 cm in diameter. Tepals are lanceolate, petals are slightly wider. The lip is wide, ovoid, white, purple at the base. It blooms for about 1.5 months.
  • Miltonia snow-white Miltonia candida - has ovoid, slightly compressed pseudobulbs, narrow-elliptical or obverse-lanceolate leaves, pointed, up to 40 cm long, on one bulb 4 lower leaves and 2 upper ones. Peduncles are erect, about 40 cm long, forming a loose raceme with 3-5 fragrant flowers up to 9 cm in diameter. Petals are yellow with large brown spots and specks, pointed at the end. The lip is white, rounded with a strongly wavy edge and a purple spot.
  • Miltonia klovesi Miltonia clowesii - has oblong-ovate, compressed pseudobulbs, leaves are linear-ligulate, pointed, light green. Peduncles are thin, erect or drooping, very long - up to 60 cm, form 7 to 10 successively opening flowers 6-7.5 cm in diameter. The shape of the flower is star-shaped, the petals are pointed, brown-yellow with spots. The lip is in the shape of a violin, slightly wavy, white at the edge, gradually turning to pink, and purple at the base. Very light-loving species.
  • Miltonia wedge-shaped Miltonia cuneata - has slightly conical, slightly flattened pseudobulbs, two-leaved. The leaves are sharp, about 20 cm long. The inflorescence is erect or drooping, 40-60 cm long, bears 5-8 flowers. Flowers 7-7.5 cm in diameter, with a very weak aroma. Tepalia lanceolate (edge ​​in wide waves), in brown spots. The lip is white, in the form of a trapezoid (skirt), at the base there is a growth in the form of two small ridges with reddish specks.

Many hybrids differ not only in the color and shape of the flower, but also in the compactness of the bushes, for example, in some pseudobulbs they grow in a very dense group, one to one, in others at some distance from each other. There are mainly numerous hybrids on sale, sometimes under the name "Miltonia mix" (care conditions concern them).

Miltonia care

Miltonia care depends on the season - the season (all microclimate indicators change) and the phase of development. This orchid has a distinct growth phase and dormancy phase. With growth, everything is clear: we see how new shoots appear, they grow and develop, during this period, planned watering and feeding, the provision of light. Then the growths begin to ripen - they catch up in size to the old ones and begin to thicken, turn into pseudobulbs - this period usually falls in mid-autumn, late September. Without waiting for the bulbs to round out, you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. At the same time, the temperature gradually decreases. The dormant period can last from three to five months, this is influenced by both genetic factors and weather conditions. The end of the dormant period will manifest itself either with the growth of the inflorescence, or with the appearance of new vegetative growth.Then watering is gradually resumed, increasing depending on the temperature.

If you are lucky and the orchid has bloomed, this beauty can last from 3 weeks to 1.5 months. With the end of flowering, care needs to be revised, give the orchid a rest for 2-3 weeks, reducing watering. Not all orchids grow and bloom strictly according to the same schedule - some bloom in the spring, others in the fall. In any case, you should adjust the temperature and watering frequency to suit her needs.


Miltonia is moderately thermophilic; many species are even somewhat cold-loving. But the general trend is as follows: spring and summer are the usual room temperature, if possible from the end of spring, beginning of summer, we keep an orchid on the balcony (depending on the degree of its insulation). The optimum temperature for growth is 20-22 ° C, preferably not higher than 26 ° C, at night a decrease of at least 4-6 ° C is required, ideally 14-16 ° C. Many miltonia adapt to home conditions much more easily if the room is often ventilated.

With the onset of a dormant period (it is desirable to withstand 2-3 months) the temperature is 16-18 ° C during the day and 14-15 ° C at night. At this temperature, the relative humidity is usually in the range of 60-70%, this is enough for the orchid to do without watering and spraying. But the main reference point is the wrinkledness of the pseudobulbs. This is a water-storing organ, when the bulbs shrink too much, it is necessary to water the orchid. If she is on the block - in the traditional way, by immersion for 2-3 minutes. If in a pot, then make a thin stream from the spray gun (open the spray gun to the maximum) and spray into the pot, directing it along the inner wall. Not on the bark and roots, but only along the side of the pot. If this is not enough, repeat the next day. But caution doesn't hurt.



Miltonia needs bright diffused light. For spring-summer, a light east window and a light northwest window are ideal. In winter, if there is no significant drop in temperature on these windows it is already dark - lamps and additional lighting are needed. On the south and west windows, on the contrary, it is quite good from October to midwinter - the sun does not burn, but shines. And since February, shading is necessary - a double layer of mosquito net or a piece of tulle. Miltoni leaves can be sunburned by the direct sun when it is most aggressive and should be shaded from noon to 4 pm.


Moistening the substrate should be regular but moderate. Miltonia roots should not be kept in a humid environment for long. Therefore, the frequency of watering depends on two factors:

  • planting method
  • air temperature

If the orchid is sitting on a block with a fully open root system, it should be watered daily at normal room temperature. If the temperature is cool, then watering during the growing season in a day or two. Landmark: the rate of drying of the roots, they should dry out in a few hours, maximum five. Those. if after five hours the velamen on the roots has not brightened, the time between waterings should be increased. Watering should always be done in the morning, especially if daily temperature fluctuations are pronounced.

If the orchid grows in a pot, you need to water it less often, only after the contents of the pot have completely dried, after about a day - two. And it should dry in a pot no longer than 1-1.5 days.

If the roots dry for more than 36 hours, then the substrate is too dense, there are few voids, or the temperature is low. In order for the roots and bark to dry out better and faster, the pot should have many holes in the bottom and walls.

Watering by immersion method, avoiding getting wet with rhizome, pseudobulbs and flooding of leaf sinuses.

The water for irrigation is soft, warm, about 40-42 ° C. The total immersion time in water is no more than 15 minutes, 10 minutes is enough. Hard water should be softened, for example by freezing or boiling.


Top dressing

Exclusively during the growth period, miltonia is fed with a special fertilizer for orchids. Orchids in pots - every 2 weeks, at a concentration 2 times less than the recommended; on the block - weekly, but fertilizer in a dosage of 1/4 of the recommended. Miltonia are very sensitive to excess fertilization. The ratio of macronutrients is required in equal proportions, ie NPK 1: 1: 1, with the formula NPK 18-18-18, or 20-20-20. You need to finish feeding a little earlier than the new growth ends.

Air humidity

Miltonia needs about 60% humidity. This indicator largely depends on the weather, and changes like this: most of the year the relative humidity in houses is at least 60%, and when it rains - about 70-80%, if it is a wet slushy winter, the same 60%. As soon as the frost picks up, it drops to 50%, when it is colder (-15 ° C) - up to 30%. They affect air humidity and ventilation of the house, type of frames, location and number of batteries. Meanwhile, spraying and humidifiers at less than 55% humidity are completely redundant, even for orchids on blocks! In order not to guess on the coffee grounds whether to spray, purchase and put a hygrometer in the orchid zone.

When the humidity drops to a critical level (below 40%), place the orchids on a wide tray with wet pebbles or moss. But moisture should not get into the pot. Place a saucer upside down under it. If the orchid is on a block, secure next to it, but not in direct contact (side, below), a good patch of sphagnum moss and spray it several times a day. It is extremely undesirable to spray the orchid itself - the water flows into the leaf axils, the total humidity does not increase, but the bulbs and roots rot.

If the humidity is above 65%, you should have another concern - increased ventilation. The higher the humidity, the better the air circulation should be, and most importantly - the fresh air flow. Do not get carried away by fans, they drive stale air around the room, think over a ventilation system so that a draft does not fall on the plants.


Miltonias, like phalaenopsis, are grown either in a pot or on a block. For a pot, the substrate must be prepared based on the main requirement of epiphytes - so that the roots breathe. Therefore, pine bark is used in pieces of 2-3 cm, wine cork, foam plastic, akadama, it is worth adding a few pieces of birch coal. In this case, the voids should be 1 / 4-1 / 3 of the pot, and the acidity of the soil should be pH 5.5-6.5. Place 1-2 regular stones on the bottom for stability. Do not overuse the use of sphagnum moss. It is good for increasing air humidity if it lies next to the pot - on a pallet, under the leaves, but not in a pot with roots.

A large piece of cork is traditionally used as a block, but it is difficult to get it, so if you want to grow miltonia on a block, you should visit a store where they sell beautiful driftwood for aquariums, or pick up a beautiful pine root in the forest. It is often advised to put sphagnum moss on the block under the roots, but it is better to dilute it or replace it with coconut fiber, it does not get wet and does not rot, but also prevents root decay. To maintain higher humidity, the moss should be tied to a block under the orchid roots.


The transplant is carried out only when the miltonia bulbs simply bulge out of the pot in all directions. Or in the event that the substrate is caked, crumbled and compacted. This threatens with long drying of the roots, asphyxiation in the anoxic soil space and rot. Choose a new pot in proportion to the root system, you do not need to take too large. After transplanting, do not water the orchid for about 5-7 days.


At home, miltonia can only be propagated by dividing the bush. Pseudobulbs with a small part of the roots are separated during transplantation. It is advisable to divide only old, heavily overgrown bushes. If miltonia has only 5-6 bulbs, there is nothing to divide. Miltonia blooms only when the bush has at least 3-4 bulbs.

Accordion on leaves

The accordion on the leaves of miltonia is often mistaken for a lack of moisture and begins to report moss to the pot or spray more often, sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't, sometimes it gets worse. Why? In fact, the accordion on miltonium leaves is formed due to a lack of moisture in the air and / or roots. And here's why this happens:

  • the air temperature is too high for this species (hybrid)
  • too low air humidity, much lower than critical (less than 40%)
  • uneven watering (sometimes more often, sometimes less)
  • insufficiently strong (or healthy) root system, unable to absorb water to support growing leaves

The lubricant produced by orchids to protect the growing leaf is secreted from within, rather than being deposited by moisture on the leaves. If the roots are unable to absorb moisture due to rot, disease or high temperatures, the problem must be addressed rather than the symptoms treated. That is, rearrange from a hot sunny windowsill to a cooler one, if dark, then under a lamp; check if the substrate has acidified from constant moisture; reanimate the root system. The roots should breathe, get drunk with moisture often, but dry well between waterings.

The leaves unfolded like an accordion with a good root system do not carry any trouble, if measures are taken to regulate temperature and humidity, they slowly, but straighten out, and the next growth will be good.

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