Radermachera Radermachera

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Radermachera Radermachera
Radermachera Radermachera
Video: Radermachera Radermachera
Video: Простой цветок с непростым названием Радермахера 2023, February
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Radermacher
Radermacher

The bignonium family. Homeland Southeast Asia. 16 species are widespread in nature. These are evergreen shrubs or trees.

When Dutch producers began to develop the Russian market, this plant was one of the first to emerge, and immediately fell in love with its unpretentiousness and beauty of delicate openwork leaves. There are variegated variations.

Radermachera Chinese Radermachera sinica is a spreading tree, about 6-15 m high, in room culture it grows as a bush up to 1.5 m high.It has opposite three-pinnate leaves, juicy green, each leaf is oblong-ovoid, up to 3, 5-4 cm long, pointed at the end, slightly wavy, serrated along the edge. The complex leaf itself is large - on average 20-30 cm, on a long petiole. Inflorescences racemose, bell-shaped flowers, with a tubular corolla, white. Does not bloom in indoor conditions. The radermacher has a natural tendency to gradually strip the lower part of the stem.

radermacher
radermacher

Radermacher care

Temperature: Radermacher prefers moderate temperatures and feels good in summer at 22-24 ° C. In winter, a cool content is desirable, at a temperature of 16-17 ° C, but not lower than 13 ° C.

Lighting: Radmakers need a very bright place - bright diffused light, protection from direct sun from 11 am to 4 pm. Grows well on west and east windows. Although in nature the radermacher grows in open sunny areas, at home it must be accustomed to the sun gradually. In the summer, the radermacher suffers not so much from the direct sun as from the heat that forms in a closed room or balcony. In winter, when kept in a warm room, additional lighting is necessary, otherwise the plant loses all its attractiveness. The variegated radermacher is more photophilous, it definitely needs some amount of sunlight, preferably in the morning or evening.

Watering: In spring and summer, abundant, with obligatory drying of the top layer of the earth. Since autumn, watering is moderate, the radermacher does not tolerate waterlogging, therefore, with a cool content in winter, the soil should dry out in the upper half of the pot before the next watering, but not dry out completely. It is advisable to use only soft, boiled water for watering.

Fertilization: During the growth period from April to August, every two weeks the radermacher is fed with a complex fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants.

Air humidity: Radermacher is resistant to dry air, but in winter, when kept in a heated room, it is advisable to spray the plant twice a day, or place it on a tray with wet sphagnum moss. Periodically, you can rinse the plant under a warm shower, protecting the soil from waterlogging.

Transfer: Annually in the spring. Soil - a mixture of 1 part of sod, 2 parts of leafy soil, 1 part of humus soil and 1 part of sand. A handful of pine bark can be added to the substrate. It is imperative to put drainage on the bottom of the pot. Radermacher does not like heavy clay soils, the earth should be nutritious, but at the same time loose, free to pass and evaporate water. The root system of the radermacher is fibrous, not very powerful, it does not need a too spacious pot.

radermacher
radermacher

The cut point of the apical cutting is marked with a red line. One of the leaves (the one on the left must be cut off)

radermacher
radermacher

This plant is not standing near the window, but the lamp is too far away, gradually the stems are completely bare.

radermacher
radermacher

This radermahara has two problems: lack of light (rare leaves) and excessive watering (brown leaves).

Reproduction radermacher

Radermacher is propagated by cuttings in spring or summer, as well as by seeds. Cuttings take root with difficulty; phytohormones must be used. It is best to root not in water or in the ground, but in wet vermiculite. It must be understood that the leaves of the radermacher are complex-pinnate, i.e. small leaves are not full-fledged leaves, but only parts of a complex leaf, and for rooting we need to cut off the entire complex leaf with a part of the stem and internode - only then there is a chance to propagate the plant. Some of the leaves on a large sheet must be removed to reduce the evaporating surface. Put the glass with the handle in a transparent bag and place it in a very bright, but not hot place. Be sure to ventilate periodically. A sign of rooting of the cuttings is the appearance of new growth - young shoots.

The seeds of a radermacher are medium-sized, surrounded by a lionfish. They are sown in a mixture of sand and peat, in bowls or directly into peat cups. The soil is kept constantly moisturized, regularly ventilated to prevent mold formation. The temperature is about 22-24 ° C.

Reproduction of radermachers by air layering is possible, especially of tall plants, with a trunk that is already lignified and bare in the lower part. Around the circumference of the trunk, you need to remove a strip of bark, about 0.5 cm wide. Wrap the cut with wet sphagnum moss, and cover with cling film on top. Care must be taken to ensure that the moss does not dry out. When the roots grow, and there are enough of them (this can be seen through the film), you can cut off the layers and plant in a pot.

Growing problems

The main problem is associated with improper wintering, when there is no way to place the plant in a cool room or protect it from the hot air of the batteries, at the same time, natural lighting in winter is very poor, as a result, the radermacher's leaves continue to grow, but the leaves are small, and the petioles are too long - the bush looks loose, decorative beauty is lost. Also, the leaves become shallow and pale when the soil is too poor, not nutritious.

Another problem with growing a radermacher is improper soil and / or over-watering. If the ground is too heavy, does not allow air to pass through well and dries for a long time, the roots begin to rot, the radermacher leaves begin to brown from the edges, turn yellow and fly around. In a severe case, the tips of the shoots rot.

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