Spathiphyllum - Home Care, Description Of Species, Flowering, Video

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Spathiphyllum - Home Care, Description Of Species, Flowering, Video
Spathiphyllum - Home Care, Description Of Species, Flowering, Video
Video: Spathiphyllum - Home Care, Description Of Species, Flowering, Video
Video: How to care for your Peace Lily | Grow at Home | RHS 2023, February
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spathiphyllum
spathiphyllum

Aroid family. Homeland of spathiphyllum (spathiphyllum) South America, East Asia, Polynesia.

If a suitable place is found for this herbaceous plant, then it can bloom almost all year round. In addition, spathiphyllum begins to bloom at a fairly early age - already 3-7 months after the separation of a small part of the bush. Spathiphyllum moisturize the air well, cleanse it of various toxic volatile compounds released by building materials, household chemicals, and chipboard furniture.

  • Spathiphyllum profusely flowering Spathiphyllum floribundum - has an underground creeping stem, leaves up to 20 cm long and about 6 cm wide, bright green oblong-lanceolate, pointed at the end. Peduncles about 25 cm long, cob inflorescence with pure white, slightly concave cover. Blooms all year round.
  • Spathiphyllum pleasant Spathiphyllum blandum - similar to the previous species, but has larger leaves - from 10 cm wide and about 25 cm long, the cover of the flower is light green. Blooms all year round.
  • Wallis's spathiphyllum Spathiphyllum wallisii is a much smaller plant, its leaves are about 5 cm wide and 15-20 cm long, depressed veins are clearly visible on them. The cover of the cob is small - up to 4 cm long and at first it has a white color, and then gradually turns green. Blooms from spring to autumn. There are about 50 varieties of Wallis spathiphyllum, for example, "Claudius Claudius", "Chopin Chopin" - compact (up to 40-45 cm) and large flower bedspread, spathiphyllum "Macho Macho" - even smaller, only 30 cm, is distinguished by a narrow long as an arrow flower bedspread, the leaf is pure green.
  • There are many other species grown at home, and breeders have bred a huge number of interspecific hybrids and varieties. Manufacturers (in industrial greenhouses) often do not indicate the name of the species, leaving only the name of the variety.

Spathiphyllum - female happiness

We talk a lot about omens, often with a certain amount of subconscious faith we accept versions about the magical properties of indoor plants. There is a belief that spathiphyllum brings happiness to single women. Where this omen came from is not known for certain, but it is passed from mouth to mouth that spathiphyllum has especially positive energy during flowering. And the more flowers, the larger they are, the more happiness the flower will bring to a woman's life. Presumably the legend was born in antiquity - it was customary to give spathiphyllum as a gift to an unmarried girl so that she would get married as soon as possible. It was also given to married girls so that a child would appear in the family, and spathiphyllum was given to women who already have children in order to establish or maintain relations with their husbands. Indeed, looking at blooming spathiphyllum is pleasant - its flowers are unusually beautiful,hold on for a long time and are very popular in bridal bouquets in many countries of the world.

If you want spathiphyllum to change your life, then you must love and care for it. Spathiphyllum will bloom only in caring hands.

Spathiphyllum care

Temperature

Spathiphyllum develops well, grows leaf mass only in warmth, the optimal temperature for it is 22-26 ° C, but for abundant flowering, a dormant period is required, at least for 2-3 weeks with a decrease in temperature to 16 ° C, with limited watering. The flower does not tolerate cold drafts. At home, spathiphyllum easily adapts to almost any room temperature. In fact, this factor is only important in connection with watering, because the colder it is, the less often you need to water. If a pot with a plant is in a cool office, hotel lobby, very slow growth occurs, but the plant does not get sick or suffer. And the slower the growth, the less need for watering and feeding.

wallis spathiphyllum
wallis spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum Wallis

Flowers last more than a month, so they are often used in cut flowers for bouquets. Large specimens are grown in tubs.

inflorescence of spathiphyllum
inflorescence of spathiphyllum

An adult plant, with good care and full illumination, forms a flower, the cover of which is no less than a large leaf.

spathiphyllum chopin
spathiphyllum chopin

Varietal spathiphyllums require more light than green-leaved ones. In the photo, Wallis spathiphyllum Chopin variety.

Lighting

Spathiphyllum loves bright diffused light, in summer it is shaded from direct sunlight, i.e. bright place, light partial shade. Good lighting is a must in winter. This is ideally, in fact, at home, the plant is very shade-tolerant, even the variegated variation of Wallis's spathiphyllum can grow in a place where there is very little light - near the north window. At the same time, variegation is not completely lost, only partially. But with a lack of light, spathiphyllums grow very slowly, and lean slightly towards the light source. However, for poorly lit rooms it is one of the best plants. If you place fluorescent lamps (LED, fluorescent) next to it, spathiphyllum grows into a chic bush.

spathiphyllum
spathiphyllum
spathiphyllum flower
spathiphyllum flower

Watering

Spathiphyllum is watered abundantly from spring to autumn, but with the top layer of the earth dried to about half the height of the pot. In winter, watering is moderate or limited. If the room is cool, then after the top layer of the earth has dried, wait with watering for another 5-7 days. Spathiphyllum tolerates stagnation of water in the roots, prolonged drying out of the soil worse than strong drying out. From overdrying, the leaves of the plant begin to slowly descend, become lethargic. But it is worth watering the plant - the turgor is restored. When spathiphyllum overflows, the buds turn black, the petioles and leaves of the plant turn yellow - the earth should not be constantly damp!

Top dressing

From March to September, every week spathiphyllum is fed with a special fertilizer for indoor plants that does not contain lime, for example, Azalea, Flower, etc. If spathiphyllum blooms in winter, then it is fed with the same fertilizers once a month. Do not feed for 1.5 months after transplanting. If your spathiphyllum blooms in autumn or winter, there is enough light for it, the bushes are lush, then you need to continue feeding every two weeks, but reduce the fertilizer concentration by half. If there are no flowers, the plant has slowed down in growth - we stop feeding in the fall.

Air humidity

Spathiphyllums love rather humid air, 60% relative humidity is optimal for them, but they stoically tolerate 50%. During the heating season and very hot dry days in summer, regular spraying and washing of the leaves is required, the air humidity is at least 40%. Cover flowers and buds before spraying.

If the air is very dry, and the tips of the leaves dry in the spathiphyllum, the plant begins to be watered more often, but after a few days dark spots appear on the leaves. This is due to excess moisture in the soil. Unfortunately, moistening the earth does not solve the problem of dry air, it can only make it worse, so try to find another way to increase the humidity of the air: put a humidifier next to it, rearrange the pot with spathiphyllum on a wide tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

Spathiphyllum transplant

Spathiphyllum is transplanted into fresh soil annually in spring, the pot is selected a little more, if only the roots have grown strongly. This plant does not like too spacious pots. If the roots have not yet filled the entire pot, then transplant it into the same container. Soil: 1 part sod, 1 part leaf, 1 part humus, 1 part vermiculite and 1 part sand (coarse 2-3 mm). It would be nice to add some charcoal to the soil, drainage to the bottom or very large holes in the pot. In a clay pot, drainage is not required.

You can prepare such a soil for transplanting: 5 parts of store soil, 1 part of vermiculite, 1 part of chopped pine bark and 1/2 part of humus (well-rotted manure).

Important: when transplanting, do not burrow into the ground, do not sprinkle the root part of the leaves with earth!

Reproduction of spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum is propagated by dividing the bush during transplantation, in the spring. Try to avoid unnecessary trauma to the roots, i.e. carefully cut 1-2 leaves with part of the roots from one side of the mother. But don't rip the entire bush apart. The plant reacts to such procedures painfully, it does not start growing for a long time. All succulent breaks and cuts on the roots should be sprinkled with birch charcoal powder or ordinary ground cinnamon. For planting, do not use too large pots, it is better to reload the plant in the summer if the pot becomes small. After dividing and planting, do not water the plant for one day.

Growing problems

  • Brown edges of leaves, wrinkled or curled leaves - from frequent dryness of the soil, too dry (less than 30-40%) or cold air.
  • Yellowing of the edges of the leaves - when watering with hard water containing a lot of chlorine and fluorine.
  • The tips of the leaves are brown with a yellow stripe - with excessive watering, long drying of the soil, when planting in heavy clay soil.
  • Dry, brown leaf tips due to dry, directed air such as dry heat from a battery. Also, the reason may be a lack of nutrients in the soil or their excess. Remember when you transplanted the plant and in what land.
  • Loss of color in variegated species (some varieties) - too dark place.

Spathiphyllum - leaves turn yellow

If spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow, there may be several reasons, but the main one is a violation of watering.

spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow
spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow
  • If it was too dry, then it is enough to water it. Moreover, pour in two stages, not immediately abundantly, but first pour out about half of the usual volume of water, wait half an hour and pour over the remaining water again. After another half hour, drain the water from the pan.
  • If the spathiphyllum was flooded, especially if it lost (turned yellow and were cut off) several leaves, it must be removed from the pot, freed from the old soil, rinsed the roots, and removed the rot. Then plant in fresh soil. In the future, maintain moderate humidity, water only after the soil has dried.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom, what to do

To stimulate further flowering in spathiphyllum, already faded peduncles are cut as low as possible to the base with a sharp knife.

But the main conditions for flowering are not a spacious pot (the roots should fill almost the entire space, but not protrude from the drainage hole), but a short dormant period with a decrease in temperature (about 12-16 ° C), sufficient illumination (a lot of indirect light). Although spathiphyllum usually blooms, albeit weakly, in almost any conditions.

You have probably noticed more than once that somewhere in a store, in a clinic or in an office, spathiphyllum planted in mayonnaise jars and roadside soil grow and even bloom, although they have a frail bush and rare leaves. And home specimens are loved, sometimes lush and green, do not want to bloom in any way. The point here may be in the nutritional value of the soil and top dressing. Firstly, not all potting mixes that are sold in the store have the composition that is stated on the package. In some soils, the doses of fertilizers are exceeded, the acidity does not correspond to the nome. An excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen, leads to the development of leaf mass, but does not contribute to the formation of flowers.

If in doubt about excess fertilizer, try this method: make sure the drain holes at the bottom of the pot are large enough (widen if necessary), that the pot is not too large. Place the pot in the bathroom (no tray or saucer) and water the soil from a hot shower (maximum temperature 45 ° C) for about 3-4 minutes without using strong pressure to prevent soil from flushing out of the pot. If your water is hard, then pour 1-1.5 liters of boiled water. Then let the water drain for about 30 minutes. Loosen the soil with a wooden stick. Place the pot in a permanent place. Let the soil dry out completely dry before resuming watering.

Attention: this procedure is permissible only if the temperature in the room where the flower is above 23-24 ° C.

Spathiphyllum - features of watering

How to water spathiphyllum correctly? There are several myths: first, that variegated spathiphyllums are more light-loving, they need a lot of light. This is not an absolute myth, in fact, the importance of light depends on the variety - there are varieties that are extremely resistant and do not lose the variegation of the leaf, even in an insufficiently bright place.

The second myth concerns watering - supposedly aroids are very fond of abundant watering.

spathiphyllum
spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum variegated is located 1 m from the northwest window. All year round the temperature is in the range of 24-26 ° C. In the photo - the soil is completely dry in the pot, the plant gradually tilts, loses the turgor of the leaves.

spathiphyllum
spathiphyllum

The same plant after watering (the photo was taken an hour after the first) - it rose by itself almost to its previous state. By the way, the flower on the plant lasts for the third month.

Of course, you shouldn't let the leaves droop more strongly than in the photo. If you look closely, the leaf blades are still elastic. But when overdrying comes to the point that the leaf plates become sluggish like rags, or the petioles wrinkle - this stage is irreversible and fatal to the plant. Allowing the soil to dry occasionally, as in the photo, is completely painless for the plant, it does not even lose flowers. Although, as soon as the leaves began to fall, the count until complete wilting goes on for hours. At the same time, low air humidity (less than 40%) leads to drying out of the tips of the leaves. And constant waterlogging leads to yellowing, then blackening of the leaves.

The point here is this: in natural conditions, aroids do not grow in meadows and fields where there is dense soddy soil, they grow on a very porous leaf litter, which has many voids, due to the loose mass of decaying forest litter (leaves, twigs). The soil around the roots is not compacted, but has air pockets, which allows the roots to breathe. At home, the root system is limited by the walls of the pot, the ground is compacted from watering, and when watering is too frequent, all the voids between the lumps of earth are filled not with air, but with water. As a result, the plant suffers from hypoxia, and putrefactive microorganisms develop under anaerobic conditions. Therefore, at first, the spathiphyllum shows chlorosis, yellowing of the tips of the leaves - as a deficiency of certain nutrients, and then the roots begin to rot.

Despite this, spathiphyllum is extremely tenacious, some other plants, like gardenia, azalea, benjamin ficus, would have long ago bent from excessive watering. Spathiphyllum fights stoically, at first, growth stops, leaves gradually die off, frail sprouts remain, which, even with sufficient light, are thin, as if elongated.

Video: how to water spathiphyllum

The video shows what determines the frequency of watering spathiphyllum. How to properly water spathiphyllum.

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