Thunbergia Thunbergia

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Thunbergia Thunbergia
Thunbergia Thunbergia
Video: Thunbergia Thunbergia
Video: Тунбергия, Сераделла обыкновенная Черноглазая сюзанна. Краткий обзор, описание thunbergia alata 2023, February
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Content

  • Types of tunbergia
  • Tunbergia care
  • Planting Tunbergia
  • Reproduction
  • Mite on tunbergia
winged tunbergia
winged tunbergia

Thunbergia is winged in nature, in natural conditions it is a rather invasive species - it grows like a weed, clogging up other plants.

Family of acanthus. Homeland rainforests of America, Asia, Africa, about. Madagascar. About 200 species of Tunbergia grow in nature, among them the winged Tunbergia, beloved by all growers, is grown as an annual in garden flower beds, it is also great for landscaping balconies, if desired, it can also be grown as a perennial plant for the home. But there are other more spectacular species that are in no way inferior in beauty to orchids. Most species are easy to care for, but are more greenhouse plants than indoor plants.

Types of tunbergia

Winged Tunbergia Thunbergia alata is a herbaceous vine with a ribbed, branching stem with weak pubescence. Leaves are opposite, up to 7 cm long, triangular or arrow-shaped, pubescent. Flowers up to 4 cm in diameter, solitary, axillary. Corolla bend five-membered, orange or cream bend. Many varieties of a wide variety of flower colors (white with a dark throat, yellow-orange, pure white). This is the most famous and widespread species.

Thunbergia laurifolia Thunbergia laurifolia is another spectacular liana that is well suited for landscaping balconies and loggias. It is an annual plant, its shoots reach 2-3 m in length. Leaves are elliptical up to 15 cm long and about 7-8 cm wide, on petioles. Flowers in long drooping racemose inflorescences. Corolla about 7 cm in diameter, purple or violet, white in the fauces. The corolla tube is small, narrow, the petals are wide, of almost the same shape and size, slightly wavy, the lower petal is slightly longer. Bloom is very abundant on the sunny side, blooms until November if the balcony is glazed (warm).

Tunbergia Mizorenskaya Thunbergia mysorensis is a shrub with long shoots (up to 5 m). At first, the stems cling to the support, rising up along tall trees or walls of houses, then long racemose peduncles are formed, which hang down 50 cm or more, like orchids. Leaves are elongated-lanceolate, narrowed at the end, whole-edged, sometimes serrated. Brick-lilac sepals, from which a tubular corolla blossoms, it is four lobed, partially accrete petals. The petals are bright yellow at the tips, brick-red, the upper lobes of the corolla are larger, bent with a spoon, two lateral and lower ones are smaller, strongly bent back.

Thunbergia
Thunbergia
Tunbergia Mizorenskaya
Tunbergia Mizorenskaya
Tunbergia Mizorenskaya
Tunbergia Mizorenskaya

Tunbergia erecta Thunbergia erecta is a shrub about 1 m tall, with a slightly ribbed stem. Leaves are oppositely arranged, up to 6 cm long, ovoid or broadly lanceolate, glabrous. Bracts are yellow-green, flowers up to 4 cm in diameter, solitary, axillary, with a tubular corolla. Corolla five-membered, with bright purple petals, yellowish in the fauces, white outside.

Thunbergia fragrans is a climbing vine with a ribbed, branching stem with weak pubescence. Leaves are opposite, up to 7 cm long, triangular or heart-shaped, dark green on the upper side and lighter on the bottom. Flowers up to 5 cm in diameter, solitary, axillary. Corolla bend white, five-membered. Very fragrant flowers bloom at the top of the climbing stems.

Thunbergia
Thunbergia
Tunbergia Mizorenskaya
Tunbergia Mizorenskaya

Tunbergia - care and cultivation

Tunbergia is a plant that needs support. In nature, these vines sometimes reach a length of about 6 m, at home, tunbergia usually do not grow more than 2-2.5 m.If you want to grow tunbergia on a balcony, you can arrange a green wall by fixing, for example, a fishing net on the wall, which will keep the shoots of the plant with a green carpet. A plastic ladder of any size is suitable as a support, but you can simply pull the twine in vertical rows.

Temperature: Normal in summer, tunbergia grows well in normal home conditions, but it is better to expose it to fresh air, on a balcony, or outdoors under a canopy, on the leeward side, in the summer. In winter, tunbergia is more demanding on temperature, ideally it needs coolness, much colder than comfortable for us humans. If you have a place where the temperature is around 10-13 ° C from October to February, great, you can grow Tunbergia as a perennial. However, the easiest way is to throw out the plant with the end of flowering (in November). The fact is that from the abundant flowering, the tunbergia is greatly depleted and if it survives the winter, it looks unpresentable. And since it reproduces easily, it is easier to plant seeds in February-March and get a beautiful flowering bush by summer.

It is necessary to accustom Tunbergia to the street gradually, so as not to harm too sharp fluctuations in temperature. In late spring, when warm days are established, the plant is taken out for several hours on the balcony and removed overnight. After a week, the pots can be left outside for the whole day, and closed overnight, for example, with a cardboard box or by placing the plant in a tight plastic bag.

Lighting: Thunbergia is light-requiring, therefore, requires a sunny windowsill. The southeast window is well suited, the western one, it is dark in the north, some direct sun is required. Shading may be needed on a southern or western windowsill on the hottest days in summer between 12:00 and 16:00. It is not the sun itself that is dangerous, but the overheating of the plant (it is very hot on the windowsill on such days).

Watering: Abundant in summer, the soil should be slightly damp at all times inside the pot, but dry well at the top of the soil. In winter, watering largely depends on the temperature; in cold conditions, the soil should be constantly almost dry. Almost, but not completely dry. Those. this can be watering once a month or two (if about 10 ° C). Just before watering, touch the soil at the back of the pot and make sure the roots are not damp.

Fertilization: From April to October, the tunbergia is fed with liquid fertilizer for indoor decorative flowering plants. Top dressing should be carried out every two weeks at the dosage recommended by the manufacturer.

Air humidity: Thunbergia responds well to occasional spraying of leaves. In the warm season, you can once a week or two arrange a warm shower for the plant, wash off the dust, and as a prophylaxis against pests. During this procedure, cover the soil in the pot with cling film.

Planting Tunbergia

Often, after flowering, the plants are thrown away, but with proper wintering, which consists in maintaining the optimal temperature and illumination, the plant can bloom the next year. Therefore, in early spring, it is transplanted into loose, light soil, consisting of 1 part sod land, 1 part leaf (or peat), 1/2 sand.

You can use the following soil: 3 parts of garden soil, 1 part of humus, 1 part of sand and drainage to the bottom of the pot. The main thing is that the pot is not too big (it grows and blooms worse in this), and the soil easily absorbs water, is wetted evenly, and also dries out easily. It is a good idea to add a handful of coconut substrate and a handful of pine bark per half a bucket of soil to the soil to improve the structure. Tunbergia are often grown in hanging pots, in which case choose wide but not very deep pots.

Thunbergia
Thunbergia
Seed Tunbergia
Seed Tunbergia

You can grow tunbergia in vertical gardening by installing a support in the pot. Since there are many shoots and branches, not one tube or stick is suitable for tunbergia, but a support in the form of a lattice or several arcs. Another option is several bamboo or metal sticks set in a pyramid-shaped pot. You can tie up the stems with a woolen thread or small crabs (like hairpins).

Reproduction

Thunbergia from seeds

Thunbergia is easily propagated by seeds, which are sown at the end of winter. It is not necessary to sow a lot of seeds, if they are fresh, germination is good, the shoots branch well, so 2-3 seeds are enough for one large plant. Sow in a mixture of vermiculite and universal soil. For example, Terra Vita soil is suitable. Seeds need to be sprinkled with a layer of earth of about 1 mm, you can not sprinkle at all, just spray. Until shoots appear, a very high humidity is needed, so moisten the crops from a spray bottle and cover with foil or glass. Ventilate two or three times a day by washing or shaking off condensation. After flowering, the tunbergia has a fruit - a box, with one or two seeds. All described species set seeds only after artificial pollination.

Thunbergia cuttings

This beautiful flowering plant can also be propagated by cuttings. To do this, they are cut in the summer, around mid-August. Cuttings are cut about 10 cm long. After sprinkling the slices with phytohormones, they can be planted in moist, light soil. After that, for better rooting, the pot with cuttings should be placed in a spacious plastic bag and kept at a temperature of about 20-22 ° C. The cuttings should overwinter in a bright, cool (about 10-12 ° C) room.

Growing tunbergia from seeds and wintering at home

Victoria Korovitskaya reports: Thunbergs were planted in the spring in the first decade of March, without soaking, immediately in cups, each seed separately. I do not dive, because they grow immediately in a separate pot, but I pinch the elongated one, this is good for them. Until the emergence of shoots, I keep it covered to maintain moisture. And when they ascend, I open it.

When the seedlings grew up, I transplanted them into pots with Passfilora, since there was no more space, and Passiflora has a large pot. Thunbergs grew until mid-December, when frosts began. Then she moved the pots to the kitchen window. I cut off the tunbergia, and in January the kidneys came out. It's warm in my kitchen only when something is being prepared, but this is the coldest place - about 15 ° C (we are not pampered with heating). This temperature is suitable for wintering flowers, but not people. However, the hatching tunbergia nevertheless withered away, so in the spring she planted fresh seeds.

Mite on tunbergia

Mites are the most common pests of this plant. They pierce the integument of the leaf, suck out cell sap. It looks like this: light dots or strokes appear on the surface of the leaves, and the leaf seems to be pricked with a needle in the lumen. Over time, the green color is lost, pale yellow blurred spots appear, flakes dry out. The presence of cobwebs is not typical for all types of ticks. The appearance of pests can be recognized by the presence of tiny white grains on the leaves, somewhat similar to dandruff, usually on the underside of the leaf.

Ticks reproduce faster in warm, dry conditions, and leaves can turn very yellow in 2-3 days. When it is cool, the activity of pests slows down, but they continue to slowly oppress the plant. You can destroy ticks with the help of acaricide preparations, these include fufan, actellik, agravertin, karate, neoron. If the tunbergia is small, you can dilute the solution in a bucket of warm water and dip it "upside down" to moisten all the leaves completely. Then pour the soil with the same solution. It is necessary to process the window sill and glass of the window where the flower pot stood. Repeat the procedure, at temperatures above 25 ° C after 4-5 days, when it is cooler after 6-7 days. If ticks reappear, be sure to change the drug, where there is another active ingredient - ticks quickly develop resistance to pesticides.

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