Chlorophytum Chlorophytum - Species, Care, Reproduction And Growing Problems

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Chlorophytum Chlorophytum - Species, Care, Reproduction And Growing Problems
Chlorophytum Chlorophytum - Species, Care, Reproduction And Growing Problems
Video: Chlorophytum Chlorophytum - Species, Care, Reproduction And Growing Problems
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Family of asparagus. The homeland of chlorophytum is Africa and Asia (India). Naturalized in the wild in Western Australia and South America. In the genus, there are, according to various sources, about 190 - 250 species.

Chlorophytum is one of the most common indoor plants, it can be found in every school, institute, office. This is not surprising: it takes root easily, grows quickly, suffers a lack of light and rare watering. At the same time, even in the most inappropriate growing conditions, it produces a mustache with new rosettes of leaves.

Chlorophytum crested Chlorophytum comosum is a herbaceous perennial plant with a fleshy rhizome with fusiform thickenings - nodules (about 5-10 cm long) capable of storing moisture. Leaves are narrow, linear, forming basal rosettes. On average, it is 40-50 cm long, 1.5-2 cm wide, but can reach 60-70 cm, most often green with a creamy stripe along the central vein (Chlorophytum comosum f vittatum). It blooms, forming long arcuate (about 70 cm) peduncles, which bear about 6-7 sparsely planted star-shaped flowers (inflorescence is a loose panicle). After flowering, young rosettes of leaves are formed in place of flowers from vegetative buds. The fruit is a triangular capsule.

Chlorophytum crested variegatum
Chlorophytum crested variegatum
chlorophytum crested variegatum Bonny
chlorophytum crested variegatum Bonny
chlorophytum crested Maja Dumat
chlorophytum crested Maja Dumat

Chlorophytum orchidastrum Chlorophytum orchidastrum is a herbaceous perennial plant with fleshy tuberous roots. The leaves are broadly oval, narrowed at the base and at the end (spear-shaped), collected in a basal rosette. The average height of the bush is about 35 cm, the length of the leaves is about 20 cm, the width is 7 cm. Leaves on petioles, which are slightly shorter than the leaf itself. The color of the petioles is from creamy and yellowish to bright orange, and the color smoothly passes to the central vein of the leaf, which makes the plants very decorative.

Chlorophytum care


Common in summer, optimal for chlorophytum 22-28 ° C. In winter, it is slightly cooler - optimally 18-20 ° C, at least 10 ° C. Although in nature chlorophytums tolerate a decrease in temperature to + 2 ° C, it is not worth the risk, such a decrease in temperature, especially with increased soil and / or air humidity, leads to root rot, leaves blackening from bacteriosis, and plant death. The unpretentious chlorophytum often survives in cool stairwells and in dark corridors, but the bushes are small, with sparse small leaves.


Chlorophytum needs bright, diffused light. Chlorophytums grow well on the east window, on the northwest window, in the immediate vicinity near the south and west window. They can also grow on the northern window, if it is not shaded from the street by houses and trees, otherwise, the plant loses its decorative appeal. More specifically, chlorophytum prefers direct sun in the morning or evening and shading from 11 to 16 hours from direct sun in spring and summer. In winter, chlorophytum can be safely kept right on the southern windowsill without shading (the sun is too low in winter and does not leave burns).


From spring to autumn, chlorophytum requires abundant watering. Moderate in winter. This means that you need to water the plant in summer at normal room temperature after the top layer of the earth dries out, about half the depth of the pot, or the next day. As we remember, chlorophytum has nodules that store water, so it tolerates overdrying much easier than overflowing. In winter, if the temperature drops below 18-20 ° C, watering is necessary only after the soil in the pot is completely dry (the pot will become noticeably lighter in weight).


Fertilizing watering of chlorophytum is carried out once every 2 weeks from March to August with complex fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants. If your chlorophytum does not grow well, before feeding, make sure that it has enough light, the pot is not too small, and do not rush to fertilize immediately.

Air humidity

In summer, it is useful to spray chlorophytum leaves from time to time and arrange a warm shower to wash the dust off the leaves. Spraying is mandatory if the plant is kept near the heating system in winter, but it is better to hang the batteries with a damp sheet, or put a pot of chlorophytum (if the size of the bush allows) on a wide tray with wet pebbles (expanded clay), so that the bottom of the pot does not constantly sink in water …

Chlorophytum transplant

Chlorophytum is transplanted annually in February - March. Large plants or old ones are transplanted after two years, but they are fed annually. Soil - 2 parts of sod, 1 part of humus, 1 part of leafy soil, 1 part of sand, 1 part of chopped pine bark. Chlorophytum prefers soils with acidity close to neutral pH 6-7.5. He does not like too acidic and too alkaline soils. The plant has large thick roots, if they grow, then the pot may crack near the bottom. Therefore, it is planted in spacious pots, but not too much - if you plant plants in huge containers, they grow very slowly.

Reproduction of chlorophytum

Chlorophytums are propagated by rooting daughter rosettes, as well as dividing the rhizome with a part of the rosette of leaves, when transplanting. All cuts, especially the thickened parts of the root, must be sprinkled with sulfur or crushed charcoal to avoid decay. It can be planted immediately in separate pots in the same soil as for adult plants. It is not necessary to spray or cover with a bag.

Chlorophytum orchidastrum
Chlorophytum orchidastrum

Problems of growing chlorophytum

  • The tips of the leaves turn brown, at the border of green and brown, a yellow strip - with improper watering, long drying of the earth (when the soil is too dense, clayey, caked), frequent watering at low temperatures, with an excess of nutrients in the soil (excessive fertilization).
  • Variegated leaves lose their color and become uniformly green - with a lack of light.
  • Chlorophytum leaves are pale and soft in winter, turn yellow and fall off - from drying out, when placed in intense light, at too high an air temperature. If the leaves are pale and sparse (there are very few of them), this is a sign of insufficient lighting.
  • Brown spots and edges on the leaves of chlorophytum, dry tips - from dryness, too high temperature, especially in winter, which is aggravated by very low air humidity.
  • Chlorophytum is very fond of eating cats, even those who go for a walk on the street are able to gnaw the leaves from time to time. You can save the plant only by moving it to a place inaccessible to the cat.

Chlorophytum pests

Scutes: similar to reddish, sometimes translucent (glassy) brown plaques (bulges) 2-3 mm in diameter, usually immobile, located on the surface of the leaves, most often along the central vein on the upper side of the leaf. Pests suck out cell sap. Leaves lose color, dry out and fall off.

Control measures. For mechanical cleaning from pests, the leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge or alcohol solution. Then the plant must be watered with a systemic insecticide, for example, Aktara.

Spider mite: Small arachnid pests, only about 1 mm in diameter, are not always visible to the naked eye. Sometimes a cobweb appears in the internodes on the stems, but at first yellowish or whitish spots of irregular shape are formed on the leaves, gradually the leaves dry out and die off. The mite should be looked for, first of all, on the back of the leaves - you can see not the mite itself, but the skins left over from the molting of pests - white crumbs that look like dandruff.

Control measures. The easiest way is to prepare a solution of acaricide (apollo, nisoran, actelik) in a bucket or a basin, and dip chlorophytum in it upside down, ie. actually rinse the leaves. Leave for 2-3 minutes, take out and leave in the bathroom to drain and dry. The windowsill and pot also need to be wiped with an acaricide solution. But if there are children, pets, or people with allergies or asthma in the house, then it is better to do without chemicals. Use a sponge to whisk a strong soap solution (green soap, tar or household soap) and apply a soap cap to the leaves. After 5 minutes, wash off with hot water (water temperature 40-45 degrees). Repeat the procedure after 3 days. Then repeat after a week, after two weeks. From now on, make sure that the air around the plant is moist enough.

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