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Malvov family. Homeland South and Central America, India, Africa. The genus has more than 40 species.
Pakhira aquatic Pachira aquatica - has a characteristic thickening of the lower part of the stem, the size and condition of which to some extent depend on the conditions of detention. Inside the thickening there is a cavity in which water accumulates; in the absence of watering, the plant can consume moisture reserves, so the pakhira may well tolerate some overdrying of the earthy coma, but it does not tolerate excessive watering very well. Due to the specific structure of the stem, pakhira aquatic can be found under the name bottle tree
Pakhira has palmate-complex leathery leaves of dark green color. In indoor conditions it rarely blooms. The flowers are white, gathered in a large panicle inflorescence. After flowering, forms fruits in the form of a long oval berry, brownish-green in color, containing edible seeds. Pakhira can be grown as a single plant, however, it should be borne in mind that it will begin to bush and form side shoots, after a few years, when it begins to pull up to the ceiling.
On sale you can often find pakhira, formed by the interweaving of several trunks. As a rule, these are expensive plants, since their cultivation requires a lot of effort - several plants, at a young age of successful seedlings, begin to gradually intertwine, and the formation of a "marketable" species does not take place in one year.
Pakhira - home care
Temperature: Moderate or warm, in summer the optimal temperature is 22-24 ° C, pakhira suffers at temperatures above 30 ° C - the leaves dry, the lower part of the trunk is exposed. In winter, it is desirable to keep at a temperature of about 14-15 ° C, at least 10 ° C. You can keep it on an insulated balcony.
Lighting: Bright diffused light, with some direct sunlight, you can place in a light partial shade. Pakhira grows well in the east and northwest window. On the south window, shading will be required during the hottest part of the day from noon to 15 hours.
Watering: In the spring and summer, moderate, the topsoil must definitely dry out before the next watering. Water only when the top 3 to 4 cm soil is dry. In winter, watering is rare, unless the soil is allowed to dry out completely. With a lack of watering, pakhira leaves lose their turgor and hang. Excessive watering can cause the stem to rot. Water for irrigation should be soft and warm.
Fertilizers: In the period from April to August, once every 3-4 weeks, fertilizers are applied for indoor plants in doses recommended by the manufacturer.
Air humidity: Pakhira tolerates dry indoor air, but responds well to regular spraying from a very fine spray bottle.
Transplant: Pakhira is transplanted annually at a young age, old plants are transplanted after 2-3 years. Take a shallow pot, but wide enough. The roots of the pakhira are not powerful, so a plant planted in a pot that is too deep is sick and grows poorly. You can make up the soil yourself: 1 part of sod land, 1 part of sheet, 1 part of fine gravel, brick chips and pieces of charcoal. Be sure to make drainage and drain holes in the bottom of the pot.
Reproduction: Seeds in early spring, or cuttings in August. Cuttings are reluctant to root, you need to use soil heating or try to root a pachira cut in a zip-bag: take a sealed bag with a plastic zipper, prepare a mixture of equal parts vermiculite and universal soil, half a glass in volume. Moisten it and sterilize it in the microwave for about 2 minutes, cool it right in a glass (or bowl), and then pour it into a bag. Always cut the pakhira stalk with a heel (a piece of stem), mark it in a bag, slightly inflate it and seal. Hang on the window (can be secured with tape). There is no need to water it, the humidity inside the sealed bag is quite high, about 90% and higher. When callus grows and roots appear, they will be visible through the bag.